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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
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A SUMMER 


.13* 


" AN  D]  N A VIA. 


inr 

MARY  AMELIA  STONE. 

I 


AN' SON  i>. 


RK: 

A . UGLPH  & COMPAN V 


'A*-  COR.  20th  STREET. 


Copyright,  1885,  by 
Anson  D.  F.  Randolph  & Company*. 


Edward  O.  Jenkins’  Sons, 
Printers  and  Stereotypers, 
North  William  Street , New  York. 


THIS  LITTLE  VOLUME  IS  AFFECTIONATELY 
DEDICATED  TO  MY  HUSBAND. 

/ 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 

To  the  North, 

PAGB 

CHAPTER  II. 
Copenhagen — Thorwaldsen, 

. 14 

CHAPTER  III. 
Museums— Churches— Parks, 

• 30 

CHAPTER  IV. 

To  Christiania, 

53 

CHAPTER  V. 

A Few  Days  at  the  Norwegian  Capital, 

. 61 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Across  Sweden,  ...... 

79 

• 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Stockholm 

00 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Environs  of  Stockholm;  or,  Drottningholm, 

Ulriksdal,  Gripsholm,  Skokloster,  . 121 

(3) 


4 


CONTENTS . 


CHAPTER  IX. 

PAGE 

Ups  ala, 139 

CHAPTER  X. 

Dalecarlia, 158 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Gotha  Canal,  . . . . . . . 174 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Southern  Sweden,  • . . . . • 181 

f ' 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA 


CHAPTER  I. 

TO  THE  NORTH. 

This  time  we  had  crossed  the  Atlantic  under 
a vow — that  we  go  Northward,  and  find  out  for 
ourselves  what  were  the  charms  of  higher  latitudes, 
and  had  we  not  already  found  them  in  the  beauti- 
ful free  town  of  Hamburg?  We  knew  this  was  an 
important  pbrt — another  Liverpool — but  were  sur- 
prised to  find  so  large  a town,  although  the  two 
miles’  drive  from  the  railway-station  through  ugly 
streets  to  Hotel  de  l’Europe  was  unattractive  in 
the  extreme.  This  hotel  overlooks  the  beautiful 
waters  of  the  Alster  River,  which  runs  through  the 
city  by  a number  of  arms,  but  widens  at  its  en- 
trance into  a basin  nearly  a mile  square,  three  sides 
of  which  are  surrounded  by  fine,  solid  buildings, 
representing  different  classes  of  industry — the  the- 
atres, public  buildings,  and  the  fine  hotels— all  of 

(5) 


6 


A SUMMER  IN  S CANE IN A VIA . 


which  having  been  built  since  the  great  fire,  are 
equipped  with  modern  conveniences  and  full  of 
comforts. 

As  evening  comes  this  basin  of  water  is  cov- 
ered with  the  most  fascinating  boats  of  all  sizes 
and  descriptions, — gay  with  many  colors — which 
fly  over  the  smooth  surface  and  disappear  through 
the  arches  of  a handsome  bridge,  the  dividing 
line  between  the  inner  and  outer  Alster.  But 
few  surprises  could  be  more  agreeable  to  the 
tourist,  worn  with  the  fatigues  of  a long  journey 
through  the  desolate  country  from  Holland  to  this 
port,  than  the  first  view  of  this  fairy  scene  on  a 
summer  evening.  The  pure  air  ; the  lingering  twi- 
light ; the  coming  and  going  of  pleasure-seekers ; 
the  graceful  sails ; the  brilliant  colors,  with  the  full 
tones  of  a fine  German  orchestra,  are  indeed  a wel- 
come. 

Hamburg  has  a proud  bearing  even  at  a casual 
glance,  a conviction  of  strength  and  power.  In 
walks  and  drives  about  the  town  we  catch  not  a 
glimpse  of  the  great  commerce  of  wdiich  she  is  the 
proud  mistress  of  all  the  continental  cities  ; but 
the  fact  of  wealth,  independence,  and  luxury  is  not 
for  a moment  questionable  from  any  point  of  sur- 
vey one  chooses  to  make.  Of  handsome  boulevards 


TO  THE  NORTH. 


7 


there  seemed  no  end — our  city  guide  said  there 
were  twenty-four — but  where  they  began  or  ended 
was  daily  an  unsolved  mystery,  and  to  see  them  all 
an  impossibility.  Everywhere  we  were  surprised 
with  fresh  revelations  of  architecture,  borrowed 
from  many  lands,  with  extensive  grounds,  now  ra- 
diant in  their  fine  splendor  of  handsome  shade 
trees,  creeping  vines,  flowering  shrubs,  and  those 
rare  plants  generally  found  in  the  southern  clime. 

This  beautiful  picture  is  not  the  all  of  Hamburg. 
There  is  another  side  which  is,  indeed,  a contrast ; 
and  a walk  from  the  modern  to  the  old  town  is  to 
step  across  ages.  If  there  was  a luxuriant  past, 
there  are  no  records  to  be  found  at  the  present. 
Probably  no  city  of  Europe,  with  much  less  wealth 
and  importance  even,  has  so  poor  a display  of  art 
in  any  of  its  departments  of  architecture,  painting, 
or  sculpture  ; in  fact,  save  one  beautiful  monument 
in  bronze  commemorative  of  the  Franco-Prussian 
war,  there  was  nothing  that  repaid  a visit. 

One  reads  the  story  of  what  Hamburg  is  and 
must  be,  in  the  ample  harbor,  with  its  four  or  five 
miles  of  quays,  ninety  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Elbe.  It  is  a marvel  of  shipping,  proudly  assert- 
ing its  importance  by  flags  and  masts  from  every 
zone.  These  ships  are  moored  to  clusters  of  wooden 


8 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 


posts,  planted  in  regular  rows,  whereby  parallel 
roads  are  formed  through  the  harbor,  giving  it  not 
only  a picturesque  appearance,  but  the  feeling  that 
all  the  nations  of  the  earth  are  kin.  Leaving  the 
commercial  part  of  the  Elbe,  the  road  winds  around 
ascending  banks,  crowned  with  palatial  homes,  va- 
rious gardens  with  summer  attractions  the  Germans 
love  so  well,  and  views  of  the  surrounding  country 
with  its  stately  harbor  of  ever-increasing  beauty. 

If  the  charm  of  a visit  to  Hamburg  belongs  to 
the  present  rather  than  the  past,  and  to  the  verdure 
of  summer  rather  than  any  merit  of  architecture  or 
art,  the  fact  that  here  is  a free-born  people  is  seen 
and  felt  at  every  turn.  We  read  on  the  pages  of 
history  that  Charlemagne  was  the  founder  of  this 
town  ; and  if  this  be  true,  no  people  could  have 
been  more  loyal  to  their  birthright.  The  last  of 
the  Hanseatic  cities  to  give  up  its  crown  of  liberty, 
proudly  worn  for  centuries,  it  still  claims  the  free- 
dom of  an  independent  State,  although  with  limi- 
tations as  a member  of  the  North  German  Empire. 

Notwithstanding  the  pleasures  which  grew  with 
each  succeeding  day,  making  life  a luxury  in  the  per- 
fect days  of  early  June,  we  kept  in  remembrance  our 
vow  to  leave  the  well-beaten  highway  of  travel  “ to 
go  afield  a little.”  Not  that  the  home  of  the  Vik- 


TO  THE  NORTH. 


9 


ings  was  altogether  an  unknown  country,  but  the 
little  knowledge  we  had  made  us  hungry  for  more, 
and  filled  us  with  a keen  anticipation  of  delight. 
To  our  imagination  it  had  always  seemed  so  far 
away,  that  when  upon  inquiry  we  found  ourselves 
just  upon  the  threshold,  that  Copenhagen  was  only 
fourteen  hours  from  Hamburg,  it  materially  dimin- 
ished the  dignity  of  going  north  ; and  we  there- 
fore decided  to  lengthen  the  trip  by  spending  our 
first  night  at  Kiel.  Reaching  Altoona  was  a con- 
fession of  the  dignity  of  a free  town  we  were  leav- 
ing behind,  and  for  which  we  had  no  bother  of 
custom-house  upon  entering,  as  we  did  in  crossing 
the  geographical  line  at  this  neighboring  town. 

The  country  through  which  we  passed  was  poor 
enough,  until  within  a few  miles  of  our  destination 
the  valley  of  the  Eider  River  revealed  some  pic- 
tures of  silvery  lakes  and  wooded  slopes,  in  pleas- 
ing contrast  with  the  miles  of  dreary  moors  and 
bogs  we  had  just  passed.  There  was  a cloud  and 
damp  over  this  June  evening,  which  made  the 
plain  hotel  welcome.  We  found  our  telegram  had 
accomplished  its  mission,  and  realized  once  again 
the  home  comforts  so  often  experienced  on  ar- 
riving at  a strange  place  in  a European  hotel. 
We  were  tired,  hungry,  and  sleepy.  A good  sup- 


10 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


per  was  on  the  table,  and  comfortable  beds  pre- 
pared. 

From  kindly  sleep  we  had  an  early,  but  delicious 
waking  the  next  morning  by  a superb  band  which 
was  playing  under  our  windows.  The  Lord  High 
Admiral  of  the  Prussian  navy  was  making  a visit  at 
Kiel,  and  entertained  at  our  hotel.  This  port  hav- 
ing, a new  naval  academy,  the  two  bands  each  in 
turn  seemed  to  vie  with  the  other  in  honoring  their 
chief.  The  air  was  still,  the  sun  had  just  risen 
over  the  town — scarcely  yet  awake — and  these  fine 
strains  of  greeting  to  J:he  unfolding  day,  seemed  a 
happy  augur  for  our  long  anticipated  visit  to  the 
land  of  romance. 

We  found  the  small  town  of  Kiel  interesting 
only  as  the  great  naval  station  of  the  Southern 
Baltic,  and  also  as  the  battle-ground  between  Prus- 
sia and  the  Danes  for  Schleswig  and  Holstein.  This 
maritime  port  was  of  great  importance,  and  natu- 
rally the  envy  of  Prussia,  which,  after  years  of  strug- 
gle, she  absorbed  into  her  already  large  domain, 
t since  which  time  she  has  built  the  fine  naval  acad- 
emy. It  is  a quiet,  peaceful-looking  bay ; so  shut 
in  on  every  side  that  from  a land  view  it  resembles 
a lake  ; still,  close  by  the  shore  the  water  is  deep 
enough  for  the  largest  men-of-war  to  find  safe  an- 


TO  THE  NORTH. 


II 


chorage,  and  they  glory  in  the  name  of  the  Sebas- 
topol of  the  Baltic.  A ducal  palace  crowned  one  of 
the  hills,  with  noble  trees  and  shaded  walks  stretch- 
ing to  the  edge  of  the  water,  commanding  pictur- 
esque views  across  the  harbor. 

Strong  fortifications  studded  the  shores  of  the 
bay  seaward,  and  as  we  turned  our  faces  toward 
the  ship  amid  a blaze  of  sunshine,  with  this  tran- 
quil picture  before  us,  we  found  to  our  dismay, 
once  outside  the  harbor,  that  our  day  of  trial 
on  the  North  Sea  was  rough  waters.  Neither 
were  our  hearts  encouraged  by  the  prospect, 
when  told  that  the  little  steamer  used  to  run 
between  Osteqd  and  Dover,  an  unpleasant  memory 
to  some  of  the  party.  However,  a few  hours  of 
the  blackest  weather  was  a small  matter  after  an 
Atlantic  voyage,  and  we  assumed  a sublime  indiffer- 
ence. The  passage  was  slow  and  rough  ; a fact 
which  most  of  the  passengers  admitted  without 
resistance.  The  scramble  for  easy  places  in  the 
little  saloon  on  the  deck  was  amusing ; but  the 
sitters,  of  nine  different  nationalities,  prevented 
much  ocular  demonstration  of  sympathy  in  the 
midst  of  the  general  suffering. 

A more  beautiful  sky  or  more  delicious  air  could 
hardly  be  conceived,  and  in  spite  of  a chopping  sea, 


12 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


three  of  our  party  kept  a lookout  upon  what  there 
was  to  be  seen  along  the  attractive  coasts.  It  must 
be  admitted,  however,  that  we  were  not  enthusiastic  ; 
and  although  we  passed  some  spots  rich  in  historic 
memories  of  this  land  of  renown,  we  longed  to 
change  our  medium  of  travel  in  this  sight-seeing 
under  difficulties. 

Seven  hours  of  fasting  had  given  us  good  ap- 
petites ; therefore  it  was  a double  pleasure  to 
sail  into  the  little  harbor  at  Korsor.  Moreover, 
as  we  had  three  hours  of  travel  by  rail  before 
our  day’s  journey  was  done,  our  hearts  were  made 
glad  as  we  stepped  off  the  steamer,  to  see  the 
word  Restanration  in  ugly,  but  plain  letters,  on  a 
little  building  hard  by,  just  what  we  longed  for ; 
so  on  we  rushed  with  the  crowd.  Already  every 
seat  was  taken  ; still  we  could  be  lookers-on. 

Alas ! what  were  these  people  eating ! — raw  ham, 
raw  fish,  black  bread,  and  cheese.  Was  civilization 
so  far  behind  ? Only  seven  hours  since  we  break- 
fasted delightfully  at  Kiel,  the  very  thought  of 
which  added  to  our  disappointment.  True,  we 
were  hungry,  but  we  were  not  savages  ; and  turn- 
ing away  in  disgust,  fortunately  met  a Swedish 
gentleman,  compagnon  du  voyage , who  understood 
English,  and  seeing  disappointment  in  our  faces, 


TO  THE  NORTH. 


13 


as  well  as  hearing  anathemas  from  our  lips,  came  to 
our  relief ; took  us  to  a small  room,  where  good 
bread,  butter,  and  coffee  restored  amiability,  and 
fortified  us  for  the  remainder  of  the  journey. 

We  were  charmed  to  find  the  country  rich  in 
agriculture — with  the  snug  homes  of  the  farmers 
built  in  a nest  of  trees — a wise  protection  from  the 
rigorous  winter.  There  were  also  beauty  and  variety 
of  landscape,  handsome  forests,  and  numberless 
lakes  made  doubly  attractive  in  the  calm  of  the 
lingering  twilight. 


r 


CHAPTER  II. 


COPENHAGEN. 

The  long  and  eventful  day  at  length  closed  in  as 
the  train  made  its  final  stop  at  Copenhagen,  amid  a 
crowd  of  people.  There  was,  however,  neither 
noise  or  confusion,  but  that  quiet  order  which 
everywhere  marks  the  railroad  management  of 
European  cities.  Although  nearly  midnight,  we 
were  surprised  to  see  the  streets  filled  with  men, 
women,  and  children,  as  we  drove  to  our  hotel ; 
and  also  observed  on  entering  the  handsome  court 
of  the  De  1’ Europe — our  destination— that  a large 
part  of  this  household  was  still  very  much  awake. 
We  soon  learned,  however,  that  this  had  been  an 
eventful  day  at  the  Danish  capital ; the  glory,  and 
pleasure,  and  pride  of  which,  reached  far  into  the 
night. 

The  beautiful  Rosenborg  Gardens,  with  all  its 
approaches,  had  been  a literal  pack  of  eager  specta- 
tors, from  King  Christian  IX.  and  his  numerous 
“ kith  and  kin,”  down  to  the  humblest  peasant,  to 
(14) 


COPENHAGEN. 


15 


witness  the  unveiling  of  the  beloved  Hans  Chris- 
tian Andersen’s  monument.  We  realized  in  the 
recital  of  this  story  a fresh  experience  of  national 
appreciation,  which  from  further  observation  proved 
no  fancy  on  our  part — but  history  expressed  equally 
by  men  of  the  highest  rank  and  the  humbler  classes. 
A more  touching  proof  of  this  could  not  have 
been  given  than  in  the  fact,  that  when  this  be- 
loved countryman  died,  the  king  followed  his 
bier  to  the  grave,  and  the  whole  nation  went  into 
mourning. 

The  new  statue  is  a handsome  tribute  to  the 
memory  of  oqe  so  universally  beloved — of  gold 
bronze,  in  colossal  size.  The  figure  is  that  of  a 
kindly  man  of  seventy  years — in  a sitting  posture, 
the  body  slightly  bent  forward,  and  the  right  arm 
extended  in  harmony  with  the  expression  of  the 
face, — both  full  of  sincere,  earnest  invitation,  as 
though  speaking.  The  panels  of  the  granite  ped- 
estal have  some  bas-reliefs  of  his  stories, — one  of 
the  storks,  another  of  the  swans ; while  upon  the 
front  panel  is  this  inscription : “ Monument  to  the 
Poet  for  the  sake  of  his  Stories ; from  the  Danish 
folks.” 

The  sweetest  enjoyment  connected  with  this 
loving  gift  of  the  people,  was  in  watching  the 


1 6 A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

delight  and  veneration  for  the  good  Hans  Chris- 
tian, in  the  faces  of  the  humbler  classes.  We  al- 
ways saw  at  the  evening  hour,  some  pretty  family 
groups,  men,  women,  and  little  children,  seated 
near  the  statue  in  earnest  talk,  probably  over 
some  of  the  simple  stories — which  doubtless  were 
their  stories.  There  was  no  doubt  in  their  expres- 
sion of  ownership,  as  they  looked  on  the  silent 
bronze ; for  though  this  man  in  the  later  period  of 
life  was  clothed  in  purple  and  fine  linen,  yet  to 
them  he  was  always  what  he  wished  to  be— their 
friend — the  peasant  boy. 

Sir  John  Lubbock  truly  says,  that  the  Danes  oc- 
cupy a larger  and  more  important  place  in  history 
than  they  do  on  the  map  of  Europe.  Were  not 
this  the  case,  shorn  as  they  are  at  present  of  Schles- 
wig and  Holstein,  they  would  seem  to  be  playing 
at  royalty.  At  this  time  Denmark  is  left  to  the 
small  area  of  14,200  square  miles,  in  a latitude  which 
reaches  fifty-seven  degrees  north,  with  few  resources 
of  wealth.  No  mineral  products;  unimportant  man- 
ufacturing ; the  principal  revenue  being  agriculture, 
and  a population  of  less  than  2,000,000. 

This  is  not  a large  opportunity  for  sovereign 
rule ; but  if  the  reigning  monarch  has  but  little  to 
do  in  his  own  small  realm,  except  to  watch  the 


COPENHAGEN . 


17 

enormous  appetite  of  Germany’s  Prime  Minister, 
there  comes  to  his  house  some  reflected  glory  by 
matrimonial  alliances,  which  at  present  bound  the 
entire  continent  of  Europe.  The  queen  (Louisa) 
is  a German  princess,  and  the  powerful  thrones  of 
England  and  Russia  are  the  future  destinies  of  the 
fair  Princesses  Alexandra  and  Dagmar.  While  the 
Crown  Prince  Frederick  is  married  to  a sister  of 
the  present  King  of  Sweden,  Oscar  II.,  the  sec- 
ond son,  George,  now  the  King  of  Greece,  is  mar- 
ried to  a Russian  Princess,  daughter  of  Duke  Con- 
stantine, and  the  third  daughter,  Thyen,  is  the  wife 
of  the  Duke  of  Cumberland. 

We  are  told  that  Copenhagen  dates  from  the 
twelfth  century,  and  the  fact  that  it  was  once  a 
fortress  is  very  evident  from  its  strong  defence 
toward  the  sea  by  powerful  forts.  A narrow  arm 
of  the  sea  separates  the  town  into  two  parts.  See- 
land  contains  the  city  proper,  while  the  small 
island  of  Amager  forms  the  harbor,  evidently 
capacious  enough  for  a much  larger  traffic  than  ex- 
ists at  the  present  time.  The  Danish  capital  is  a 
disappointment  to  one  who  goes  there  for  architec- 
tural beauty.  The  tints  everywhere  are  cold  and 
gray,  and  this  poverty  in  color  is  only  rivalled  by 
absence  of  form.  Its  four  State  buildings,  includ- 


18  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

ing  the  Palace  of  Christiansborg,  offer  nothing 
upon  their  exteriors  to  beguile  the  tourist.  The 
royal  abode  closely  resembles  barracks,  only  res- 
cued from  tameness  by  some  Corinthian  pilasters, 
and  a few  bas-reliefs  of  Thorwaldsen. 

These  buildings  were  once  the  homes  of  wealthy 
noblemen,  and  certainly  the  State  has  not  been  im- 
poverished by  their  outward  adornment.  However, 
it  sometimes  is  found  that  costly  treasures  are  hid- 
den beneath  plain  exteriors ; so  inside  these  ugly 
walls  are  seen  collections  by  the  great  masters  in 
art,  which  might  justly  be  the  envy  of  the  affluent 
nations  of  the  continent.  Among  them  are  some 
pictures  of  Exner,  a favorite  painter  of  the  inti- 
mate life  of  the  Danish  folk.  Like  Andersen,  in 
his  tales,  Exner  loves  to  introduce  the  story  of 
northern  life,  through  the  quiet  interior  of  a home 
in  the  long  winter. 

A curious  square,  called  Kongens  Nytorv,  forms 
the  centre  of  the  town,  around  which  stand  many 
public  buildings, — the  Royal  Theatre;  the  Acad- 
emy of  Arts ; Count  Moltke’s  Gallery ; cafes,  and 
the  fine  hotel,  De  V Europe,  which  was  our  tempo- 
rary home.  From  this  point  everything  radiates — • 
streets,  highways,  tramways,  in  all  directions.  The 
square  is  feebly  adorned  by  an  equestrian  statue  of 


COPENHAGEN. 


19 


Christian  V. ; but  judging  from  the  superbly  arched 
necks  of  the  horses  we  saw  both  in  public  and  pri- 
vate carriages,  this  specimen  of  a portrait  repre- 
sented a very  different  species  of  animal  from 
those  of  the  present  time.  From  this  point,  also, 
the  stranger  naturally  has  his  first  outlook  upon 
the  North — a fresh  and  new  experience,  because  it 
is  old,  and  little  known.  We  had  come  to  the 
land  of  romance,  and  we  see  the  story  is  preserved. 
Modern  growth  has  not  obliterated  history  and  tra- 
dition. 

We  were  fortunate  in  the  finest  of  weather.  The 
sky  continued  unclouded ; the  air  elastic,  and  a 
thrill  of  pleasure  over  expectations  realized  filled 
the  veins.  This  was  the  land  of  the  Vikings — 
robbers  and  pirates  by  name,  yet  in  their  time,  po- 
tential as  navigators,  and  rich  in  story.  In  looking 
across  the  centuries,  at  the  enterprises  of  these 
wild  adventurers,  happy  only  on  the  stormy  seas, 
our  new  country  seems  older,  and  more  important, 
because  first  known  to  those  lords  of  the  sea,  who, 
sailing  out  of  the  ice  and  desolation  in  which  they 
were  born,  crossed  the  Atlantic  in  their  “ crazy 
barks,”  with  a skill  and  courage  which  belong  only 
to  the  name  of  Viking. 


20 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


THORWALDSEN. 

But  of  to-day.  It  is  not  in  vain  that  the  tourist 
in  coming  hither  takes  for  his  text  Thorwaldsen. 
It  is  written  everywhere  — in  highways,  byways, 
squares,  public  buildings,  churches,  palaces,  and 
shops  of  high  as  well  as  low  degree.  Like  Shake- 
speare, who  dedicates  and  crowns  that  delightful 
spot  in  the  garden  of  England,  Stratford-on-Avon, 
so  this  great  sculptor,  whom  the  Northmen  proudly 
call  their  Phidias,  is  the  glory,  the  tutelary  genius 
of  Copenhagen,  and  gives  it  a classic  flavor.  The 
text  is  a proud  theme,  and  will  bear  any  amount 
of  amplification,  especially  when  standing  under  the 
roof  which  holds  his  collected  works. 

In  such  a presence  there  can  be  no  question  of 
genius,  and  a feeling  of  awe,  wonder,  and  surprise 
must  creep  over  one  at  the  thought  that  all  this  is 
the  creation  of  a single  brain.  Behold  how  great 
is  man!  “crowned  with  glory  and  honor”  ! made 
“only  a little  lower  than  the  angels.”  The  museum 
is  a curious  structure,  and  looks  as  though  placed 
in  uncomfortable  relations  with  the  North.  As  this 
museum  was  originally  planned  for  a mausoleum 
as  well,  the  architecture  was  borrowed  from  the 
old  Greek  and  Etruscan  sepulchral  buildings.  The 


COPENHAGEN. 


21 


work  was  commenced  in  1839,  and  although  simple 
in  all  its  details,  nine  years  passed  before  it  was 
completed.  It  is  a quadrangle  in  shape,  covered 
on  the  outside  with  frescoes  representing  the  tri- 
umphal return  of  Thorwaldsen  to  his  native  land 
in  1838,  after  a life  of  eighteen  years  in  the  Eter- 
nal City. 

The  colors  have  been  greatly  affected  by  the 
rigorous  winters  of  the  North,  and  surrounded 
as  it  is  by  the  cold,  grave,  solid  buildings  of  this 
latitude,  it  has  a singularly  cheap  appearance,  quite 
unworthy  such  honored  service,  and  forcibly  illus- 
trates the  folly  of  trying  to  transplant  the  architec- 
ture which  belongs  to  sunny  Italy  or  Greece  to  the 
Arctic  regions.  This  ugly  exterior  is  somewhat  re- 
lieved, however,  by'the  fine  group,  “ Victory,”  which 
surmounts  the  facade,  and  from  an  outlook  over 
the  city,  which  makes  it  especially  commanding. 
She  is  pulling  up  her  Quadriga,  and  is  a striking' 
piece  of  art,  executed  in  bronze,  after  a sketch  by 
the  great  master. 

Each  story  of  the  building  has  a corridor  look- 
ing into  the  court-yard  or  quadrangle,  and  a series 
of  small  rooms — cabinets,  forty-two  in  all — open 
into  this,  where,  arranged  with  exquisite  taste, 
the  visitor  walks  on  and  on  with  ever-growing  won- 


22 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


der,  to  read  but  the  name  of  one  man  as  the  creator 
of  all  that  is  before  him.  In  the  centre  of  the  court- 
yard— which  is  decorated  in  Pompeian  style — the 
body  of  the  noble  artist  rests,  beneath  an  ivy-cov- 
ered vault,  built  during  his  life,  in  accordance  with 
his  own  wishes.  The  granite  frame  bears  this  sim- 
ple inscription:  “ Bertel  Thorwaldsen,  born  19th 
November,  1770;  died  24th  March,  1844.” 

This  is  well.  No  costly  monument  or  words  of 
high-sounding  panegyric  are  needed  here.  “ His 
works  do  praise  him,”  and  through  him  the  great 
master  will  live  on  through  the  coming  ages. 

The  first  story  is  wholly  devoted  to  sculpture  ; 
and  in  each  room  one  of  the  prominent  familiar 
works  of  the  artist  occupies  a central  position — 
one  hundred  and  six  of  which  are  already  finished 
in  marble. 

Who  has  not  sometime  in  life  had  the  delicious 
experience  in  looking  at  some  gem  of  art,  which 
years  of  anticipation  had  made  beautiful,  that  after 
all  his  ideal  was  but  a faint  conception  of  the  real- 
ity of  which  heretofore  he  had  seen  only  a feeble 
copy.  Bas-relief  seemed  here  a revelation  ; and  al- 
though many  of  the  smaller  gems  were  well  known 
to  the  world  by  imitations  in  plaster,  as  well  as  en- 
gravings, yet  in  each  case  we  recognized  the  fact 
that  they  were  new. 


COPENHAGEN. 


23 


It  is  not  easy  to  keep  a party  of  half  a dozen 
near  each  other,  where  shrines  are  so  many  and 
tastes  so  varied,  yet  one  is  sure  to  find  worship- 
pers before  the  “ Mercury”  and  “ Fadori,”  espec- 
ially as  there  is  sure  to  be  one  of  a company  who 
has  a guide-book.  “Night”  is  one  of  the  most 
familiar  of  Thorwaldsen’s  creations,  and  it  is  pleas- 
ure without  alloy  to  stand  before  this  exquisite 
conception.  What  inspiration  in  the  thought  of 
this  delicate,  womanly  figure  floating  through  the 
air,  her  head  crowned  with  poppy  leaves.  On 
her  calm  face  an  expression  worthy  of  Mary,  the 
mother  of  Christ ; in  her  arms,  tenderly  folded, 
the  two  dear  babes, — the  one  sweetly  sleeping, 
the  other  a beautiful,  but  lifeless  form.  The  mar- 
ble is  so  full  of  repose  and  gentle  sleep,  that  the 
very  spell  of  rest  creeps  over  one  while  gazing,  and 
you  feel  sure  when  morning  comes  life  will  reani- 
mate again  this  precious  form. 

“ Day,”  too,  is  bewitching  with  her  bright  face, 
washed  in  dew,  scattering  her  glittering  flowers  in 
the  rosy  morn — that  I had  seen  before ; but  never 
the  “ Night.”  Both  of  these  gems  are  said  to  be 
the  result  of  an  afternoon’s  work.  To  “ Night  ” he 
gave  four  hours,  with  his  dog  and  cat  as  compan- 
ions. “ Day  ” was  but  a rounded  period  to  the 


24 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


first  conception,  at  least  as  they  looked  in  the  spot- 
less marble.  How  impossible  to  calculate  that 
these  gems  were  not  only  conceived  and  modelled, 
but  many  of  them  executed  in  the  marble  by  the 
master’s  own  hands. 

A visit  to  what  is  called  the  Great  Hall,  is  the 
most  satisfactory  place  in  the  Museum  to  see  the 
versatility  of  his  genius,  as  this  exhibition  has  spe- 
cial reference  to  strong  contrasts.  One  side  of  the 
hall  is  wholly  given  to  an  equestrian  figure  of  a 
Polish  noble,  Poniatowski.  Pius  VII.,  in  his  pon- 
tifical robes  ; to  the  right,  Divine  Strength  ; to  the 
left,  Heavenly  Wisdom  ; and  on  the  pedestal  two 
Angels  sustain  the  arms  of  His  Holiness. 

The  poet  Schiller,  Nicolaus  Copernicus,  and 
crowning  all  the  famous  frieze  of  Alexander’s  tri- 
umphal entry  into  Babylon,  colossal  in  thought 
and  execution,  to  the  right ; Alexander  with  his 
train,  to  the  left;  Babylon  and  its  surroundings; 
and  in  the  centre  the  captured  moving  in  proces- 
sion to  meet  the  victor.  At  the  opposite  end  of 
this  quadrangle  is  the  Hall  of  Christ,  which  con- 
tains the  plaster  casts  of  the  Twelve  Apostles,  the 
fame  of  which  has  reached  every  corner  of  the 
globe  where  art  is  appreciated  and  a religious  senti- 
ment felt.  We  had  not  yet  seen  the  marbles,  and 


COPENHAGEN. 


2$ 

still  we  paused  again  at  this  fresh  revelation  of  uni- 
versal genius.  In  his  Mercuries  he  equalled  the 
sculptors  of  early  Greece,  and  now  you  are  filled 
with  awe  at  the  solemnity  with  which  he  treats  di- 
vine things. 

There  was  a suggestion  in  the  entrance  corridor 
of  an  old  acquaintance  (all  the  rest  is  profoundly 
new)  in  the  Lion  of  Lucerne,  which  looked  natural 
and  friendly  from  associations  far  removed,  how- 
ever, from  any  interest  in  the  great  sculptor.  Sir 
Walter  Scott’s  kindly  face  gave  a cheer  to  the  well- 
filled  hall ; but  the  chief  work  of  interest  to  be 
found  in  this  grouping  is  a beautiful  bas-relief, 
“The  Guardian  Angel,”  symbolical  of  Thorwald- 
-sen’s  own  history  and  early  life.  There  is  exquisite 
kindness  in  the  face  of  the  angel, — represented  as 
sending  her  child  forth  into  the  world  carefully  but 
securely  shadowed  by  her  own  protecting  wing. 

The  second  story  of  the  Museum  is  to  the  Danes 
a hallowed  spot,  being  little  less  than  the  artist’s 
private  salon,  where  with  reverential  care  all  that 
belonged  to  him  personally, — the  arrangement  of 
furniture,  pictures,  books,  curios, — no  modern  in- 
vader is  allowed  to  disturb.  There  are  some  good 
pictures  which  the  artist  brought  from  Italy,  as 

also  a few  books  worthy  a pause ; but  the  value  of 
2 


2 6 


A SUMMER  IN  SCAN  DINA  VIA. 


this  part  of  the  Museum,  naturally  and  rightfully 
belongs  to  his  countrymen.  This  was  certainly  a 
fresh  experience  to  look  upon  so  large  a mass  of 
what  a single  man  had  done, — limited,  as  he  is,  to 
the  little  span  of  threescore  years  and  ten, — the 
interest  of  which  must  grow  with  each  succeed- 
ing visit. 

If  the  theory  of  heredity,  surroundings,  and  early 
education  has  small  chance  to  assert  itself  in  this 
august  presence,  opportunity  must  play  a conspic- 
uous role  in  the  history  of  Thorwaldsen.  Whether 
he  was  born  in  Iceland  or  Copenhagen  (a  disputed 
question  among  writers  of  his  day)  matters  little. 
His  father  was  poor, — a ship-builder  by  trade,  of 
Icelandic  origin, — and  the  boy  Bertel  spent  many 
hours  of  his  early  years  in  a woodshed,  not  only 
in  cutting  figure-heads  for  Danish  ships,  but  in 
beautifying  his  father’s  rough  work.  If  the  Attic 
fire  did  not  burn  around  him,  there  were  such  early 
indications  of  extraordinary  talent  in  the  boy,  that, 
in  his  twelfth  year,  he  was  placed  gratuitously  in 
the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  where  he  succeeded  in 
obtaining  prizes  of  great  merit. 

The  first  prize  of  the  institution  was  a gold 
medal,  to  which  was  added  a travelling  stipendium 
entitling  the  successful  winner  to  a salary  for  three 


COPENHAGEN, 


27 


years.  For  this  the  young  Thorwaldsen  worked 
with  a will,  and  no  sooner  was  it  gained  than  he  as 
naturally  found  his  way  to  the  Eternal  City  as  the 
hungry  child  seeks  food  of  its  mother.  The  sight 
of  the  great  models  of  antiquity,  which  makes 
Rome  what  it  is,  revealed  to  the  young  sculptor 
his  destiny,  and  he  was  known  to  say : “ At  this 
moment  I was  born ; until  then  I did  not  exist.” 
After  six  years  of  hard  work  this  hitherto  unknown 
child  of  the  chilly  North  awoke  to  find  himself 
illustrious  where  classic  art  had  flourished  for  cen- 
turies. The  statue  of  Jason  was  completed.  His 
generous  friend  and  lifelong  patron,  Mr.  Hope, 
had  ordered  its  execution  in  marble ; and  the  great 
Canova  had  awarded  it  his  warm  testimonial  of 
admiration. 

To  date  from  this  moment  of  proud  success  is  to 
record  a history  of  triumphal  progress.  One  histo- 
rian says  that  “ he  was  more  praised  while  living 
than  any  known  artist.”  Surrounded  by  admirers, 
petted  by  princes,  covered  with  the  gifts  of  favor, 
with  a kingly  court,  this  poor  artisan  of  Copen- 
hagen filled  all  the  capitals  of  Europe  with  the 
sound  of  his  name ; not  a prince  who  did  not  wish 
him  to  fix  his  features  in  marble  for  the  benefit  of 
posterity.  Popes,  kings,  queens,  paid  him  homage 


28 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


by  asking  that  they  be  perpetuated  through  the 
genius  of  his  chisel.  And  it  is  recorded  that,  amid 
the  general  enthusiasm,  an  extravagant  Italian  poet 
styles  him  the  son  of  God,  while  Horace  Vernet 
crowned  him  with  laurel  at  a banquet.  This  won- 
derful record  of  success  is  almost  a solitary  one. 
Great  achievement  in  art  seems,  as  a rule,  to  be 
born  of  conflict  and  struggle;  but  Thorwaldsen 
received  from  his  contemporaries,  and  wore  with  a 
complaisant  though  unspoiled  assurance,  that  tri- 
umphal crown  which  is  too  often  the  ornament  of 
a tomb. 

While  Copenhagen  applauded  from  a distance 
the  success  of  her  illustrious  son  ; still,  as  the  years 
rolled  on,  he  quietly  kept  his  place  of  loving  devo- 
tion to  his  one  mistress — Art ; untouched  by  the 
homage  of  admirers  from  classic  lands,  except  that 
through  those  many  avenues,  as  an  open  door,  in- 
spiration flowed  in,  and  high  achievement  was 
gained.  Nearly  half  a century  of  work  had  passed, 
forty-three  years  of  life  in  Rome,  where  the  artist 
had  spent  his  real  life.  Still,  he  wished  to  go  back 
to  his  own  country  with  a last  farewell  to  the  im- 
perial classic  city. 

The  Danes  received  the  message  of  Thorwald- 
sen s return  with  great  joy,  and  sent  a frigate  of 


COPENHAGEN. 


29 


the  Royal  Marines  to  meet  him  at  Leghorn.  As 
the  ship  was  signaled  sailing  up  the  waters  of  the 
sound,  the  forts  of  Copenhagen  announced  his  ap- 
proach ; the  fleet  gave  the  royal  salute,  at  the  same 
time  making  a hedge  for  the  passage  of  the  great 
man  as  the  ship  sailed  into  the  harbor.  The  whole 
city  hastened  to  give  him  welcome.  Princes  of  the 
blood  received  him  as  their  peer ; tradesmen  car- 
ried banners  upon  which  could  be  seen  one  of  his 
principal  works ; while  the  citizens  were  so  over- 
come with  joy,  that  they  took  the  horses  from  his 
carriage,  and  bore  him  through  the  streets  like  a tri- 
umphal conqueror.  All  jealousy  of  rank  and  birth, 
if  it  ever  existed,  belonged  to  the  past ; for  this 
man,  although  the  son  of  an  humble  carpenter,  had 
by  his  genius  become  illustrious  throughout  the 
world,  and  returning  to  the  land  of  his  birth,  was 
placed  by  the  people  upon  a pedestal  of  glory,  and 
crowned  with  a laurel  more  lasting  than  that  of 
kings. 


CHAPTER  III. 


MUSEUMS— CHURCHES— PARKS. 

This  art  exhibition  of  Thorwaldsen — the  like  of 
which  as  a collection  one  may  travel  in  many  lands 
without  seeing— does  not  by  any  means  exhaust 
the  sum  total  of  what  will  repay  a visit  to  this 
Scandinavian  capital.  Hard  by,  almost  another 
part  of  the  same  building,  yet  so  far  removed  in 
style  and  architecture  as  to  put  many  lands  be- 
tween, stands  the  Museum  of  Northern  Antiqui- 
ties. The  solid  gray  walls  look. as  though  they  had 
stood  there  forever,  and  the  rude,  crude  objects  to 
be  seen  in  the  introductory  hall,  increase  the  im- 
pression that  one  is  standing  on  the  threshold  of 
time  when  the  world  was  young.  Yet  as  the  visitor 
continues  his  inspection  on  and  on  through  the 
nineteen  different  halls  or  apartments  of  the  finely 
arranged  collection — said  by  many  archaeologists  to 
be  the  best  now  extant — one  feature  of  the  chival- 
rous romantic  North  is  read  as  clearly  as  from  the 
pages  of  an  open  book. 


MUSE  UMS— CHURCHES— PARKS.  3 \ 

Even  to  the  unlearned,  there  is  a profound  inter* 
est  in  looking  at  such  proofs  of  the  history  of  coun- 
try and  race,  handed  down  from  that  early  time 
when  no  events  were  recorded  by  a written  lan- 
guage. The  word  antiquity  has  but  little  weight 
or  thought  in  the  vocabulary  of  an  American, — his 
watchword  is  the  future ; so  that  a little  halt  to 
look  at  these  simple  memorials  so  arranged  and 
classified  that  the  present  is  connected  with  the 
distant  past,  our  own  race  but  a link  of  the  gener- 
ations that  existed  centuries  before  the  Christian 
era,  can  but  open  a fountain  of  instruction  and 
pleasure. 

Denmark,  the  smallest  kingdom  in  Europe,  wears 
the  palm  in  collecting,  arranging,  and  disentangling 
her  numerous  shreds  of  antiquity,  and  putting  them 
into  a fabric  whereon  is  written  indelibly  her  pri- 
meval history.  The  collection  was  brought  to  its 
present  state  of  perfection  by  Mr.  C.  Thomsen,  and 
was  the  first  in  the  arrangement  of  which  his  cele- 
brated theory  of  the  three  ages  of  civilization,  char- 
acterized by  the  use  respectively  of  stone,  bronze , 
and  iron,  was  carried  out ; and  the  fact  that  so 
large  a collection  could  be  arranged  in  harmony 
with  that  view,  has  had  a great  share  in  its  early 
triumph  among  scientific  archaeologists. 


32 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


The  Danish  Government,  ever  loyal  to  her  own 
people,  again  asserts  this  principle  by  offering  to  the 
finder  of  any  antiquarian  relic  a large  remuneration 
if  taken  directly  to  the  museum.  The  first  rooms  of 
this  building  are  devoted  to  implements  and  weap- 
ons of  stone  and  flint,  which  illustrate  the  Pagan 
age  ; and  a comfort  it  was  to  realize  that  there  was 
good  and  sufficient  reason  why  space  should  be 
given  to  what  intrinsically  looked  worthless.  Neither 
was  there  any  marked  proof  of  advance  in  civili- 
zation as  we  passed  through  a number  of  the  rooms, 
especially  in  a multitude  of  rough  articles  called 
court-finds,  discovered  at  a much  later  period. 
There  were,  however,  some  manufactured  tools — 
knives,  hatchets,  and  weapons  in  bone — illustrating 
the  closing  part  of  the  Stone  age,  worthy  of  note. 

The  most  important  memorials  of  this  age  are  the 
graves,  called  Cromlechs.  These  vary  in  size  from 
sixty  to  one  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  from  six- 
teen to  forty  in  breadth,  capped  by  a huge  fragment 
of  rock ; all,  however,  have  the  one  object  of  a 
sepulchral  chamber,  wherein  the  bodies  of  the  dead 
were  placed  in  a sitting  posture  with  their  backs  to 
the  wall.  This  age  closes  before  the  birth  of  the 
Christian  era,  immediately  followed  by  the  age  of 
Bronze. 


M USEUMS—  CHURCHES—. PARKS. 


33 


To  the  unscientific  and  ignorant  this  seemed 
an  unnatural  disposition  of  natural  forces,  to  in- 
troduce bronze  as  the  second  period  of  civiliza- 
tion, it  being  a compound  metal.  As  Denmark 
produces  neither  copper  nor  tin,  the  components  of 
bronze,  doubtless  the  metal  was  first  imported  by 
ready-made  weapons.  Curiously  enough  many  of 
the  objects  of  this  period,  particularly  in  the  earlier 
development,  are  ornamented  with  gold.  Neither 
silver  nor  iron  appears  until  many  years  after.  One 
of  the  greatest  curiosities  in  the  museum  belongs 
to  the  closing  period  of  the  Bronze  age,  in  the 
shape  of  a highly  finished  poignard  found  in  Jut- 
land, and  near  by  this  exhibit  you  come  to  gold, 
and  especially  amber  ornaments  in  profusion. 

The  Iron  age  is  naturally  the  most  interesting  to 
the  looker-on  of  to-day,  as  we  read  in  it  the  march 
toward  civilization.  Silver  and  glass  were  contem- 
poraneously introduced,  also  the  manufacture  of 
woolen  cloth,  well-constructed  boats,  and  rude  rep- 
resentations of  art,  which  in  that  early  day  (the 
sixth  century)  could  not  have  been  the  result  of 
personal  contact  with  other  lands.  The  most  re- 
markable features  of  this  section  of  the  exhibit  are 
the  Roman  coins,  ranging  from  the  first  to  the 
third  centuries,  with  those  of  the  Eastern  Empire 


34 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


two  centuries  later,  and  also  Coptic  money  from  the 
ninth  to  the  eleventh  centuries.  There  are  also 
ornaments  and  jewels  bearing  unmistakable  proofs 
of  Roman  origin,  with  various  devices  and  shapes, 
suited  to  the  tastes  of  cavaliers  and  the  demands 
of  royalty  in  that  dawn  of  the  Christian  era. 

What  is  the  hidden  story  which  mother  earth 
confirms,  but  half  reveals  ? Nowhere  does  history 
tell  us  that  in  the  first  centuries  there  was  any  ex- 
change of  national  or  private  life  between  Italy  and 
Denmark.  On  the  contrary,  the  natural  barriers 
of  climate  as  well  as  barbarism  would  forbid  such 
a belief.  Yet  in  Jutland,  and  all  over  the  realm,  coins 
and  ornaments  have  been  found  deposited  with  the 
dead,  or  immersed  in  sacred  waters,  which  bear  in- 
disputable evidence  that  there  was  in  some  way 
directly,  or  indirectly,  a lively  intercourse  with 
Rome.  As  this  was  the  Viking  age,  there  is  a 
theory,  quite  confirmed  by  some  archaeologists, 
that  these  finds  are  the  trophies  of  their  plunder 
from  the  rich  lands  in  the  East,  and  that  when 
about  to  sail  on  new  expeditions,  they  buried  these 
treasures  in  concealed  parts  of  the  island. 

This  opinion  is  refuted  by  many  wise  heads,  on 
the  ground  that  they  are  found  in  the  graves  buried 
with  the  dead,  and  also  that  it  would  be  out  of  har 


MUSE  UMS-  CHURCHES— PARKS. 


35 


mony  with  the  dauntless,  fearless  character  of  the 
Vikings  to  believe  they  would  conceal  anything. 
Even  the  epoch  of  Iron  is  far  removed  from  the 
authentic  written  history  of  the  North  ; so  that 
this  great  collection  substitutes  truth  for  fiction, 
takes  away  the  filmy  veil  thrown  by  tradition  over 
antiquity,  and  as  a result  of  the  earnest  years  of 
study  by  these  noble  students,  we  can  gain  some 
clear  light  of  the  real  life  of  our  remote  prede- 
cessors. 

In  a line  with  this  museum,  along  the  quay,  is  a 
curious  building,  the  Exchange,  which  is  quite  a 
jump  from  the  pa§t  to  the  present.  The  spire  is 
ideally  Danish,  formed  of  four  marvellous  dragons, 
with  their  tails  twisted  in  the  air.  Tradition  says 
that  it  was  moved  bodily  by  Christian  IV.  from 
Calmar,  in  the  south  of  Sweden,  and  therefore  in- 
teresting to  the  Danes  on  account  of  this  supersti- 
tion ; but  even  a little  knowledge  of  the  centuries 
of  strife  between  those  nationalities,  makes  one 
sceptical  of  legendary  lore.  The  building  is  of  red 
brick,  in  the  Dutch  renaissance  style,  highly  orna 
mented  with  gray  sandstone,  while  the  serpents’ 
heads,  turned  to  the  four  corners  of  the  compass, 
form  the  basis  of  the  spire.  Architecturally  it  is  a 
great  relief,  as  well  as  an  ornament,  to  the  bare,  cold 


36 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


surroundings,  and  a fine  memento  of  the  era  of 
Christian  IV.,  whose  works  in  that  line  throughout 
the  realm  honor  him. 

Another  public  building  in  this  vicinity  can  not 
be  overlooked  as  a curiosity,  the  Church  of  Trinity, 
with  its  curious  round  tower,  originally  built  for  an 
observatory.  This  tower  is  formed  by  two  hollow 
cylinders,  between  which  a spiral  inclined  plane 
winds  from  the  street  to  the  top,  sufficiently  easy 
of  ascent,  and  wide  enough  for  a coach-and-four  to 
make  the  drive  to  the  top.  We  did  not  see  any 
motive  for  such  an  undertaking  ; but  according  to 
story,  once  upon  a time  Peter  the  Great  did — 
which  was  not  strange — although  how  he  turned 
to  come  back  again  was  a mystery.  The  roof  of 
the  church  contains  the  library  of  the  university, 
said  to  be  of  value  in  Icelandic  Sagas  ; but  the 
most  interesting  feature  of  the  whole  place  lies  in 
the  fact  that  here,  previous  to  the  fire  of  1728,  was 
preserved  the  celebrated  globe  of  Tycho  Brahe 
and  his  mathematical  instruments.  The  outlook 
from  the  top  was  not  a great  survey.  The  waters 
of  the  sea  were  sparsely  covered  with  ships,  show- 
ing that  Denmark  of  to-day  is  unimportant  in  the 
commerce  of  the  world. 

The  Evangelical  Lutheran  is  the  State  Church, 


MUSE  UMS— CHURCHES— PARKS. 


37 


to  which  the  king  must  belong ; and  although 
there  is  entire  freedom  and  liberty  of  conscience 
for  dissenters,  yet  it  is  proverbial  that  the  hearts 
of  all  classes  in  this  small  kingdom  flow  together 
on  this  question.  The  one  place  of  pilgrimage  is 
the  Church  of  “ Our  Lady,”  whose  interest  does 
not  lie  in  any  beauty  of  architecture,  as  it  is  only 
a poor  attempt  of  the  Roman  Basilica.  One  can 
not  step  across  the  threshold,  however,  without  a 
feeling  of  reverence,  as  here  is  found  the  crowning 
work  of  Thorvvaldsen, — “ Christ  and  the  Twelve 
Apostles,”  which  fills  the  gloomy  edifice  with  majes- 
ty. The  whole  building,  in  short,  seems  little  else 
than  another  museum.  The  portico  contains  the 
group  of  “ St.  John  preaching  in  the  Wilderness  ”; 
in  the  vestibule  is  a frieze  of  the  “ Entry  to  Jerusa- 
lem,” and  over  the  altar  another  frieze  representing 
“ the  Procession  to  Golgotha.” 

Standing  behind  and  above  this  altar  is  the  co- 
lossal figure  of  our  Saviour,  the  noblest  specimen 
of  the  noble  art  of  this  far-famed  sculptor.  In  the 
Roman  Catholic  countries  of  Italy  and  Spain,  our 
Saviour  is  generally  represented  in  the  agony  of 
the  Cross,  which  is  wholly  at  variance  with  Thor- 
waldsen’s  conception.  He  has  given  to  the  world 
the  embodiment  of  physical  perfection,  beauty, 


38 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


and  sublimity  in  matter;  glowing  with  inward 
spiritual  beauty.  He  stands  in  the  dignity  and 
strength  of  manhood,  with  a countenance  exquis- 
itely gentle;  His  arms  extended  as  in  consolation, 
invitation,  and  benediction ; and  it  requires  no 
stretch  of  the  imagination  to  discern  the  thought 
of  the  sculptor  in  these  divine  words : “ Come  unto 
Me,  all  ye  that  labor  and  are  heavy  laden,  and  I 
will  give  you  rest.” 

On  both  sides  of  the  nave,  arranged  at  uniform 
distances,  stand  the  colossal  figures  of  the  Twelve 
Apostles,  each  with  his  conventional  emblems.  St. 
Paul’s  face  has  great  power  and  deep  thought,  as 
though  fitted  for  the  mission  of  a pioneer ; while 
opposite  him  stands  the  lowly  fisherman,  St.  Peter, 
with  his  keys,  yet  with  a countenance  sublime  for 
truth.  St.  James  the  younger  with  his  palmer, 
host,  and  staff,  is  of  exquisite  beauty. 

Every  visitor  sees  and  chooses  for  himself — if  in 
this  opulent  display  of  what  heights  Art  can  reach, 
the  mind  is  capable  of  choice ; but  whatever  else  may 
be  forgotten,  the  tender  expression  of  kinship  one 
reads  in  the  youthful,  holy  face  of  St.  John  (as  he 
writes  down  the  word  of  inspiration)  to  our  dear 
Lord,  must  to  the  reverential  mind  be  a possession 
to  carry  through  life. 


MUSE  UMS—  CHURCHES— PARKS. 


39 


When  evening  comes,  the  one  place  for  a walk 
is  the  garden  of  the  Rosenborg  Palace.  Originally 
it  was  ornamented  with  statues  and  fountains  in  im- 
itation of  southern  grounds ; but  now  its  great  boast 
(which  certainly  could  not  be  equalled  by  any  art  of 
man’s  device)  is  a royal  avenue  of  trees,  unbroken 
the  entire  length  of  the  grounds,  one  end  of  which 
seems  perfectly  finished  by  the  new  monument  to 
the  beloved  Hans  Christian  Andersen. 

This  would  be  a wonderful  avenue  of  foliage  in 
any  clime,  and  so  far  to  the  North,  one  feels  that 
Nature  is  kind.  The  topmost  branches,  in  their 
beautiful  gothic  arches,  suggested  the  Ardennes 
woods  near  Brussels ; more  solemn  and  impressive 
than  “ any  long  drawn  cathedral  aisle.”  At  the 
present  time,  these  grounds  (called  the  King’s  Gar- 
dens), besides  containing  large  conservatories,  have 
also  a school  for  gardening,  with  excellent  success, 
judging  from  the  tempting  display  of  flowers. 
From  the  stand-point  of  architecture,  the  Rosen- 
borg Palace  is  the  finest  building  in  the  city, — an- 
other monument  of  Christian  IV.,  and  as  is  gen- 
erally said,  after  a design  of  Inigo  Jones,  which, 
however,  the  wise  ones  in  this  department  of  art 
deny. 

After  the  death  of  this  celebrated  monarch,  which 


40 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


was  a long  reign  of  sixty  years,  the  palace  was 
wholly  devoted  to  a collection  of  the  Danish 
kings,  chronologically  arranged.  The  Museum  of 
Northern  Antiquities  does  not  contain  objects  of  a 
later  date  than  1660,  and  as  the  collection  at  Ro- 
senborg begins  about  this  period,  it  supplements  the 
former,  as  illustrating  the  arts  and  customs  of 
various  times.  Every  epoch  has  its  gallery,  and 
the  visitor  walks  across  six  centuries  of  history 
without  being  greatly  overcome.  Each  successive 
monarch  has  room  enough  assigned  him  for  a 
proper  display  of  the  length  and  magnitude  of  his 
reign.  Here  are  safely  deposited,  and  arranged 
with  as  much  taste  as  the  space  allows,  whatever  of 
grandeur  or  value  there  was  in  furniture,  arts  of 
peace  and  war,  vestments,  jewels,  etc.,  the  gifts 
from  each  royal  abode. 

The  famous  Oldenborg  horn,  which,  according 
to  legend,  was  the  gift  of  a fairy  to  one  of  the 
ancestors  of  this  house  in  989,  is  well  considered 
the  finest  memorial  of  the  early  age  of  Denmark. 
Even  in  modern  times  it  would  be  considered  a 
fine  piece  of  workmanship.  It  is  of  silver,  curiously 
wrought ; the  artist  having  evidently  borrowed  his 
motive  from  the  German  age  of  chivalry.  One  reads 
in  the  design,  the  feeble  attempt  to  represent  a 


MUSE  UMS— CHURCHES— PARKS. 


41 


walled  town,  the  spires  of  which  form  the  lid  and 
knob  of  the  horn. 

The  usual  display  of  jewels,  highly  wrought  in 
gold  and  precious  stones,  is  repeated  here ; also 
some  exquisite  specimens  of  carved  ivory,  and  the 
puzzling  Orde.r  of  the  Elephant,  which  ranks  with 
the  English  Order  of  the  Garter.  To  our  unhis- 
toric  minds  this  seemed  a great  way  from  home, 
and  therefore  out  of  harmony  with  the  surround- 
ings. The  Royal  Library  is  chiefly  valuable  in 
manuscripts  of  Danish,  Norwegian,  and  Swedish 
literature;  but  the^ picture  galleries,  in  this  atmos- 
phere of  high  art  and  sculpture,  will  hardly  repay 
a visit. 

Royalty  decrees  that  the  theatres  be  closed  from 
May  to  October,  so  that  the  people,  especially  the 
middle  classes,  can  have  a large  benefit  of  the  short 
summer,  and  a kinder  administration  for  public 
good  could  scarcely  be  devised.  It  seems  no  mys- 
tery that  Copenhagen  has  a population  of  225,000, 
judging  from  the  crowds  that  throng  the  streets 
and  pleasure  gardens  as  soon  as  the  day’s  work  is 
done.  To  be  out  in  the  lingering  twilight,  and 
above  all  to  go  to  the  Tivoli,  the  popular  summer 
garden,  seems  the  common  wish  and  habit  of  the 
people.  It  is  both  curious  and  interesting  to  watch 


42 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


the  daily  crowds  pouring  through  these  gates,  open 
from  five  to  eleven  o'clock,  where  all  sorts  of  enter- 
tainment is  going  on  for  the  sum  of  thirteen  cents. 
To  the  American  mind,  used  to  the  larger  activities 
of  purse,  this  would  mean  very  emphatically  cheap 
amusement ; but  let  those  who  doubt,  or  who  feel 
there  is  nothing  worth  the  trip  to  this  poor  little 
kingdom,  go  and  see,  for  there  are  times  when  one 
realizes  the  value  of  eyes  and — ears. 

There  is,  however,  clap-trap  at  the  Tivoli, — no- 
ticeably, at  our  first  visit,  an  American  circus, — but 
at  opposite  ends  of  the  large  grounds,  which  are 
fitted  up  with  a variety  of  shows,  there  are  two  ex- 
cellent bands, — one  of  wind,  the  other  of  stringed 
instruments, — and  the  most  enthusiastic  lover  of 
Theodore  Thomas  would  find  delight  in  either,  es- 
pecially the  latter ; yet,  to  the  visitor  more  intent 
on  the  observation  of  a new  people  than  personal 
gratification,  the  faces  of  happy  families  taking  in 
this  pleasure,  during  the  long  peaceful  twilight 
after  the  work-day  toil  was  over,  seemed  an  un- 
speakable delight.  Here  was  not  only  relaxation, 
but  education  also,  as  was  clearly  demonstrated  by 
the  long,  loud  shouts  of  applause  when  so  beautiful 
a thing  as  Gounod’s  “ Ave  Maria”  was  played,  and 
well  played,  which  is  praise  indeed. 


MUSE  UMS-CHURCHES— PARKS. 


43 


One  great  charm  of  wandering  about  the  streets 
was  the  entire  absence  of  beggars.  There  were  no 
painful  contrasts  of  wealth  and  poverty,  but  with 
all  classes  a consciousness  of  frugality.  The  sim- 
ple honesty  of  the  poor  impressed  us  as  a new  fea- 
ture of  peasant  life,  especially  when  compared  with 
southern  Europe,  to  say  nothing  of  the  interme- 
diate nations.  Every  morning  we  found  a sweet 
young  girl  standing  at  the  court  of  our  hotel,  with 
bunches  of  flowers  so  refreshing  that,  in  our  foolish 
American  fashion,  we  often  over-paid  her,  or  tried 
to,  as  she  always  politely  declined  our  attempts  at 
charity. 

One  day  we  tried  the  experiment  with  a very 
humble-looking  woman,  who  had  a flower-stand 
in  the  market-place.  Selecting  a pretty  bunch  of 
roses,  for  which  she  promptly  named  the  price, 
we  put  into  her  hand  a coin  almost  double  the  value 
of  her  flowers,  and  passed  on,  refusing  the  change. 
In  a moment  she  came  running  after  us,  with  pinks 
enough  to  make  up  the  difference,  and  looked  so 
happy  in  doing  it  that  we  had  no  heart  to  decline 
taking  them.  Evidently  these  poor  people  mean 
to  enjoy  their  frugal  fare  by  honest  work,  and  scorn 
the  thought  of  beggary, — an  experience  so  delicious 
that  it  required  no  note  by  pen  or  pencil,  as  mem- 


44 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


or y has  not  a large  store  of  that  sort.  If  the  in- 
habitants of  this  high  latitude  are  hedged  in  by  a 
long  winter,  they  do  not  bear  this  privation,  if  such 
it  is,  without  suitable  and  cheerful  preparation, 
both  in  country  and  town. 

The  fronts  of  the  houses  are  nearly  all  windows, 
—a  fact  we  began  to  notice  in  Hamburg ; and  the 
lovely  blossoming  plants  which  fill  them,  from  the 
basement  to  the  attic,  in  the  avenues,  and  along 
the  poorest  streets  alike,  in  many  cases  are  almost 
as  attractive  as  conservatories. 

It  was  a pleasure  to  learn  of  the  high  attain- 
ment Denmark  had  made  in  her  educational  insti- 
tutions. All  the  schools  of  the  entire  State  are 
amenable  to,  and  dependent  upon,  the  University 
of  Copenhagen,  under  whose  control  they  are.  A 
Royal  College  composed  of  a Punams  and  four 
assessors,  arrange  and  carry  out  the  entire  system 
of  education  throughout  the  realm,  appoint  the 
professors  of  the  university — the  teachers  of  all 
the  schools  of  whatever  grade.  This  commission 
has  no  superior  except  the  king,  to  whom  they 
report.  Education  is  compulsory,  and  as  the  poor 
are  obliged  to  pay  a weekly  sum  to  the  Govern- 
ment for  this  purpose,  it  follows  as  a natural  result 
that  but  few  among  the  humbler  classes  can  be 


MUSEUMS— CHURCHES— PARKS.  45 

found  who  do  not  know  how  to  read  and  write.  The 
language  of  the  Danes  has  the  same  derivative  as 
Norway  and  Sweden ; the  Old  Scandinavian  or 
Icelandic  being  the  parent  of  all. 

The  one  environ  every  English-speaking  tourist 
is  most  eager  to  visit  is  Elsinore.  No  matter  if  it 
is  fiction,  so  long  as  our  great  dramatists  make  this 
old  story  of  Hamlet  an  ever  new  one,  so  long  as 
they  have  the  power  to  make  the  pictures  of  this 
melancholy  Dane  and  his  tragic  life  real,  wher- 
ever the  spot  is  which  bears  the  name  of  Elsinore, 
thither  will  pilgrimage  be  made  across  land  and 
sea.  And  what  is  to  be  seen  as  a fact  of  to-day 
will  repay  a visit.  An  old  castle,  built  during  the 
reign  of  Frederick  II.,  situated  on  a point  of  land 
projecting  into  the  Sound,  is  what  the  great  drama- 
tist calls  Elsinore.  The  architecture  and  situation 
are  both  commanding  and  picturesque.  In  fact,  it 
is  a grand  pile,  built  of  stone,  two  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  square,  with  four  towers,  one  of  which  is 
carried  to  such  a height  as  to  make  it  the  best  ob- 
servatory in  the  kingdom.  It  is  said  King  Frederick 
built  the  Castle  of  Cronsberg  at  his  own  expense, 
and  took  occasion  thereby  to  congratulate  his  sub- 
jects upon  this  important  addition  to  the  grandeur  of 
the  State,  without  taking  a farthing  from  their  small 


46  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

resources.  The  sequel,  however,  shows  that  human 
nature  was  pretty  much  the  same  thing  with  this 
northern  king  in  the  latter  part  of  the  16th  cem 
tury  as  it  is  to-day.  This  edifice  arose  as  a fortress, 
whereby  the  payment  of  the  Sound  could  be  en- 
forced ; the  revenue  of  which  this  most  benevolent 
monarch  put  into  his  own  pocket.  His  example 
was  not  followed  by  succeeding  sovereigns,  how- 
ever, and  for  centuries  the  Sound  toll  was  a great 
revenue  to  the  State,  amounting  in  1853  to  380,000 
pounds,  twenty-four  per  cent,  of  the  estimated 
receipts  of  the  kingdom  for  that  year. 

Denmark  was  obliged  to  contest  her  undisputed 
right  to  this  narrow  passage  of  water  with  the  mar- 
itime powers  of  Europe  for  many  years,  especially 
with  Holland  and  Sweden.  At  last  the  struggle 
ended  in  defeat,  and  the  toll  was  entirely  abolished 
in  1857  5 and  so  the  occupation  of  the  old  castle  is 
over,  and  as  there  are  no  evidences  remaining  of 
great  beauty  within  its  walls,  the  splendors  of 
Prince  Hamlet’s  early  home  must  still  find  their 
reality  in  Shakespeare’s  romance.  The  day  of  our 
visit  was  matchless  in  clear  air  and  cloudless  sky, 
which  made  the  outlook  from  the  high  tower,  over 
the  blue  waters  covered  with  spreading  sails,  mag- 
nificent in  the  extreme. 


MUSE  UMS—  CHURCHES— PA  RKS. 


47 


Elsinore  is  called  the  land’s-end  of  Denmark,  and 
Malmo,  opposite,  on  the  Swedish  coast,  is  only  two 
miles  across,  the  width  of  the  Sound.  This  nar- 
row bit  of  water,  which  cost  the  northern  nations 
of  Europe  so  many  years  of  conflict,  is  the  very 
“ turnpike-gate  between  the  Baltic  and  the  rest  of 
the  world.”  It  was  a superb  sight : the  smooth 
sea  spread  out  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  roman- 
tic castle ; the  soft  plains  of  Sweden’s  garden,  Sca- 
nia, stretching  eastward ; the  waters  of  the  tideless 
Baltic  to  the  south,  while  northward  we  looked 
upon  rocks  which  pointed  to  the  Cattegat. 

There  is  no  “ wild  and  stormy  steep  ” at  Elsinore, 
but  there  are  soft  green  banks,  and  stately  trees. 
Whether  nature  has  undergone  great  transformations 
during  the  ages,  was  not  a matter  of  inquiry,  as  the 
good  people  of  the  little  village  did  not  apparent- 
ly give  Hamlet  much  thought  in  those  days.  They 
did,  however,  send  you  to  an  adjoining  town  for  his 
grave.  Marienlyst,  once  a royal  marine  residence, 
seems  to  claim  this  honor.  Ophelia,  too,  is  re- 
membered here,  but  only  in  connection  with  the 
final  tragedy  which  seemed  hardly  kind.  Still  if 
what  they  called  “ Ophelia’s  Brook  ” was  as  quiet  a 
stream  in  the  days  of  yore  as  now,  there  was  not 
of  necessity  any  suffering  in  connection  with  her 
untimely  death. 


48 


A SUMMER  IN  SC  AN  DIN  A VIA. 


Another  interesting  suburb  of  Copenhagen  is 
Fredericksborg,  only  an  hour’s  ride  from  the  capital, 
by  rail.  The  interest  of  a visit  here  is  in  the  pic- 
turesque situation  of  the  castle,  which  covers  three 
small  islands  in  a pretty  lake,  connected  by  bridges. 
The  original  castle  was  built  by  Frederick  II.,  but 
his  successor,  Christian  IV.,  who  had  a mania  for 
palaces,  took  advantage  of  a fire  which  made  some 
havoc  with  the  interior,  to  make  what  he  consider- 
ed a new  creation  in  architecture,  and  like  every 
other  monument  of  the  kind  in  northern  Europe, 
it  is  a mixture  of  all  sorts.  This  building,  as  well 
as  the  adjoining  chapel  where  six  Danish  kings 
were  crowned,  suffered  by  a terrible  fire  only  a few 
years  since,  but  they  have  been  fully  restored  by 
the  exertions  of  the  people.  We  see  here  a repeti- 
tion of  the  romantic  story  of  the  Venetian  doves, 
who  are  daily  visitants  at  St.  Mark’s  for  their  noon- 
day meal.  This  is  in  the  region  of  extensive 
woods,  where  the  beautiful  beech-tree  abounds, — 
nowhere  so  perfect  as  in  Denmark.  The  rooks 
make  their  homes  among  the  branches  thereof, — 
and  for  an  outing,  have  an  afternoon  tea  on  the 
roof  of  the  castle,  which  is  said  to  be  black  with 
them.  In  this  case  it  is  wholly  a social  feast,  which 
lasts  only  about  twenty  minutes.  Charlottenland 


MUSE  UMS—  CHURCHES— PARKS. 


49 


is  the  popular  rendezvous,  being  only  six  miles 
from  the  city,  and  accessible  in  many  ways,  al- 
though the  gem  of  this  environ  lies  three  miles  be- 
yond. This  is  the  famous  deer  park  with  its  four 
thousand  acres,  through  which  runs  a narrow  river, 
with  wooded  banks  of  delicious  shade, — the  famous 
royal  pasture,  where  the  white  stags,  of  rare  beauty, 
the  red  and  fallow  deer,  luxuriate  in  this  forest  of 
magnificent  beeches.  A half-hour’s  ride  to  Rose- 
kilde  takes  the  visitor  to  the  ecclesiastical  build- 
ing of  Denmark,  the  resting-place  of  her  sover- 
eigns, and  the  residence  of  the  Primate  of  the 
Church.  The  earliest  date  of  the  church  was  in 
the  tenth  century,  but  the  changes  of  time  did  its 
work  down  to  the  reign  of  Christian  IV.,  whose 
hand  appears  here,  as  all  over  the  realm,  in  undying 
characters. 

The  largest  chapel  of  the  cathedral  contains  the 
sarcophagus  of  this  beloved  sovereign,  richly  orna- 
mented with  silver.  On  the  walls  are  decorations 
of  frescoes  by  good  artists,  illustrating  the  leading 
events  of  his  life.  Another  sarcophagus,  to  be 
found  in  the  rear  of  the  altar,  marks  the  resting- 
place  of  Denmark’s  remarkable  queen,  Margaret, 
whose  reign  is  handed  down  to  posterity  as  the 
most  notable  one  of  the  Middle  Ages  in  Scandina* 
3 


50 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


via.  The  historian  is  silent  about  the  earlier  years 
of  this  female  conqueror,  or  the  character  of  talent 
which  led  to  such  triumphal  achievements,  but  the 
fact  remains  that  she  succeeded  in  making  Nor- 
way, Sweden,  and  Denmark  bend  the  knee  before 
her,  and  crown  her  as  sovereign  ruler  of  the  three 
kingdoms  at  the  close  of  the  14th  century.  This 
was  the  famous  compact  known  as  the  Union  of 
Calmar. 

Altogether,  the  Cathedral  of  Rosekilde  is  an  in- 
teresting monument  of  mediaeval  time ; with  some 
frescoes,  paintings,  sculptures,  monuments,  and 
relics  of  art  which  deserve  attention,  aside  from 
their  historical  importance. 

Surprises  grew  with  each  country  outing.  The 
entire  island,  from  Korsor  to  Elsinore,  was  lux- 
uriant in  the  extreme.  Instead  of  the  stunted 
growth  of  vegetation  found  in  the  corresponding 
latitude  of  Scotland,  this  was  more  like  the  wealth 
of  the  English  garden.  Latitude  passes  for  little 
until  one  has  inquired  of  the  Gulf  Stream.  Here 
were  fields  upon  fields  of  waving  grain,  which  filled 
even  the  tourist  with  satisfaction ; grass  which  could 
but  gladden  the  hearts  of  the  freehold  farmers ; 
with  hawthorn  hedges  in  some  places  approaching 
that  perfectness  which  is  England’s  proud  boast. 


MUSE  UMS -CHURCHES—. FARMS. 


51 


The  entire  coast  from  Copenhagen  to  Elsinore  is 
being  rapidly  used  for  suburban  homes,  the  neces- 
sity of  which  was  not  plain  to  our  eyes, — save  that, 
whether  it  is  east,  west,  north,  or  south,  one  must 
follow  the  tide.  These  are  not  expensive  homes. 
On  the  contrary  the  picturesque  taste  shows  marked 
progress  in  the  development  of  the  people,  and  un- 
mistakable evidence  of  fresh  contact  with  neigh- 
boring countries.  As  a proof  of  this,  many  little 
villages  are  springing  up,  in  all  directions,  which 
bear  the  aspect  of  homes, — not  after  the  fashion  of 
the  fathers,  cold  and  stiff  and  hard  in  outline,  but 
so  far  as  possible  with  the  limitations  of  climate, 
a copy  of  that  style  which  belongs  to  warmer 
lands, — especially  in  the  attention  paid  to  the  floral 
world.  The  revelations  here  were  astonishing, — not 
even  explainable  by  the  Gulf  Stream.  The  haw- 
thorn, locust,  and  alder  trees  dispense  their  sweet 
odors  broadcast.  The  laurel  thrives  away  from  its 
home  in  the  sun-land ; the  ivy  clings  to  the  wall 
with  as  much  apparent  vigor  as  in  England.  Even 
the  cypress  wears  an  air  of  contentment ; and  the 
rose  has  a perfectness  in  size,  color,  and  fragrance 
not  to  be  found  in  America  except  in  the  Southern 
States. 

To  see  Copenhagen,  with  its  environs,  is  to  see 


52 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


Denmark  of  to-day.  Odense,  the  next  city  in  size, 
is  worth  the  visit  to  the  searchers  for  antiquity, 
wherein  its  chief  interest  will  be  found ; but  what 
of  power  and  wealth  and  enterprise  is  left  to  this 
depleted  State  now  surrounds  its  capital.  In  look- 
ing across  the  narrow  sea  to  English  shores,  how 
hard  it  is  to  realize  that  the  name  of  Denmark  (at 
the  present  moment  geographically  less  than  one 
quarter  of  our  New  England)  was  ever  a terror  in 
that  land ; that  the  tide  of  supremacy  once  flowed 
from  these  shores,  making  that  now  powerful  people 
a subject  race;  and  that  their  first  foreign  master, 
Canute,  was  a Dane,  who  ruled  not  as  conqueror, 
but  as  king.  Surely  the  kingdoms  of  to-day,  so 
great  in  pride  and  power,  crumble  and  decay,  to 
reappear  in  more  glorious  forms,  under  new  skies, 
with  other  names  written  thereon.  Whatever  glory 
illumines  the  page  of  Danish  history  in  the  past, 
it  was  very  evident  the  present  generation  were 
not  seriously  disturbed  by  any  sharp  contrasts  with 
its  poverty  of  to-day.  Better  than  any  other  in- 
heritance or  possession,  the  governing  principle  of 
life  was  apparently  cheerfulness  and  contentment, 
which,  with  industry  and  economy,  make  a happy 
people  if  not  a powerful  nation. 


CHAPTER  Itf. 


TO  CHRISTIANIA. 

We  lingered  on  in  this  attractive  city,  happy  in 
the  new  and  pleasant  experiences  of  each  day,  yet 
not  unconscious  of  the  fact  that  there  were  new 
lands  and  fresh  fields  before  us.  At  last  the  day 
of  our  departure  was  fixed,  but  whether  to  Norway 
or  Sweden  was  still  a debatable  question,  made 
daily  more  difficult  to  decide  from  the  glowing  re- 
ports of  English  tourists,  each  filled  with  the  supe- 
rior advantages  of  his  own  excursion.  A new  and 
excellent  line  of  steamers  make  the  trip,  twice  a 
week,  from  Copenhagen  to  Christiania  in  twenty- 
four  hours,  upon  which  we  took  passage,  intending 
to  stop  at  Goteborg,  and  go  directly  to  Stockholm 
by  the  famous  Gotha  Canal.  The  morning  of  our 
farewell  to  the  Danish  capital  was  perfect ; the  air 
was  clear  as  crystal,  the  blue  waters  in  the  harbor 
quiet,  which,  with  the  promising  appearance  of 
the  deck  of  the  ship,  filled  us  with  visions  of  still 
new  pleasures. 


(53) 


54 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


Following  the  example  of  our  neighbors,  we  se- 
cured a comfortable  place  under  the  awning,  drew 
the  arm-chairs  to  a small  round  table,  where  we 
could  put  our  books  and  necessary  belongings  for 
the  trip ; watch  the  pleasant  exchanges  and  good- 
byes of  friends  ; drink  in  the  fresh  air  of  the  glo- 
rious morning ; see  the  ship  loosed  from  its  moor- 
ings, and  almost  imperceptibly  sailed  out  of  the 
quiet  harbor,  with  perfect  content.  The  sea  was 
kind  and  continued  smooth,  the  passengers  good- 
humored — to  which  the  restauration  of  coffee  and 
other  little  delicacies  largely  contributed.  Under 
such  benign  influences,  combined  with  the  inspira- 
tion of  the  faultless  atmosphere,  we  held  a council 
of  state,  and  decided  to  go  on  to  Norway,  assured 
by  the  captain  that  such  a day  on  northern  waters 
was  rare  indeed.  Before  mid-day  we  had  left  land 
far  in  the  background,  but  the  clear  blue  of  the 
quiet  water  was  delight  enough.  As  evening  ap- 
proached we  had  an  experience  more  like  a dream 
than  a reality,  which  was  quite  in  harmony  with 
the  day’s  experience.  Nearing  our  one  stop  at 
Goteborg,  we  left  the  broad  waters  to  make  the 
approach  through  an  estuary  of  the  Gotha  River. 
For  miles  the  channel  was  hidden  by  rocks,  so  that 
navigation  seemed  impossible.  Some  of  the  pas- 


TO  CHRISTIANIA . 


55 


sengers  looked  alarmed,  and  talked  loudly  of  fre- 
quent accidents  among  these  rocks — of  the  impos- 
sibility of  navigating  in  a fog,  etc. 

We  turned  from  all  this  to  the  calm  sunset,  and  the 
happy  face  of  the  captain, which  was  assuring ; resolv- 
ing to  enjoy  the  novelty  of  the  scene  undisturbed. 
Curiously  enough,  this  utterly  barren  mass  of  gran- 
ite, without  the  smallest  shrub  or  blade  of  grass,  not 
even  a suggestion  of  moss  to  cover  their  nakedness, 
was  the  habitation  of  man  ; so  quaint,  novel,  and 
unexpected  did  these  houses  or  huts  of  the  fisher- 
men appear,  that  the  effect  was  almost  like  an  opti- 
cal illusion.  Such  a barren  approach  to  Goteborg — • 
the  second  city  of  importance  in  Syeden,  and  the 
first  commercially — made  the  handsome  town  in 
the  sunset  glow  seem  magical,  as  though  some  god 
of  the  mountain  had  turned  a key.  From  a little 
distance  it  strongly  resembled  barred  walls  and 
fortifications,  while  a nearer  view  not  only  revealed 
a fine  city,  but  powerfully  illustrated  the  triumph 
of  energy  over  an  unpropitious  soil  and  a hard 
climate.  On  our  way  to  Copenhagen  wre  had  met 
one  of  the  merchant  princes  of  this  city,  whose 
wide  travel  and  accomplishments  established  the 
fact  in  our  minds  that  Goteborg  was  no  mean  city; 
and  fortunately  the  quay  where  our  ship  stopped 


56 


A SUMMER  IN  SCAN  DIN  A VIA. 


for  one  hour  to  exchange  passengers  was  on  the 
grand  canal,  which  divides  the  town,  and  gave  us  a 
view  of  the  finest  part  of  it.  There  was  a sugges- 
tion of  Holland  in  the  broad  canal  with  fine  solid 
enclosures  of  hewn  stone  lined  with  trees,  and 
crossed  by  numerous  bridges.  The  hasty  glance  at 
houses  and  streets  and  public  buildings  indicated 
enterprise  and  prosperity.  Leaving  the  town,  we 
looked  to  see  what  Murray  had  to  say,  and  learned 
that  this  was  the  work  of  the  great  Gustavus 
Adolphus,  founded  in  1619  ; and  that  the  hand- 
some square  of  which  we  had  caught  a glimpse, 
was  adorned  by  a fine  bronze  statue  of  himself — 
the  work  of  Fogelberg — the  sculptor  Sweden  de- 
lights to  honor.  This  is  the  birthplace  of  Fogel- 
berg, as  well  as  of  Molin,  another  sculptor  of  note. 
That  Goteborg  was  designed  for  a fortified  town 
seemed  a self-evident  conclusion,  requiring  no  sa- 
gacity on  the  part  of  its  illustrious  founder,  at  least 
such  was  a natural  opinion  both  in  getting  into 
and  out  of  it. 

A pretty  tradition  is  handed  down  in  connection 
with  the  location  of  the  city.  The  old  town  named 
Loden  lay  higher  up  the  river,  but  was  vulnerable 
to  foreign  invasion,  and  was  taken  by  the  Danes. 
Upon  its  restoration  to  Sweden  (partly  destroyed), 


TO  CHRISTIANIA. 


57 


the  young  king,  Gustavus  Adolphus,  struck  by  its 
unfavorable  site,  was  standing  upon  one  of  the 
rocks  at  Goteborg,  puzzling  over  the  situation, 
“ when  a little  boy  pursued  by  an  eagle  sought  shel- 
ter at  his  feet.”  “ Auspicious  omen  ! ” exclaimed 
the  bystanders  ; which  so  delighted  Gustavus,  that 
he  ordered  the  foundations  of  the  town  to  be  built 
then  and  there. 

We  noticed  our  English  tourists  began  to  be  un- 
easy, and  to  make  preparations  for  what  they  called 
the  voyage  of  the  Cattegat  and  Skager-rack — “ a 
nasty  place  and  although  filled  with  the  pleasure 
the  day  had  brought  us,  these  names  had  an  un- 
quiet suggestion — therefore  it  seemed  wise  to  leave 
the  deck,  the  delicious  twilight,  and  let  sleep  do 
her  best  to  tide  us  over  what  was  always  a doubtful 
passage.  These  turbulent  waters  must  have  been 
on  their  good  behavior,  the  captain  a good  navi- 
gator, the  ship  strong  and  bold,  as  we  had  no  con- 
sciousness when  morning  dawned  of  anything  but 
a comfortable  night.  Another  day  of  promise. 
Was  it  possible  that  two  succeeding  days  could  be 
so  full  and  rich  in  experience  as  to  be  marked  with 
a white  stone  ? It  looked  so  on  this  “ rosy-fingered 
morn.”  And  the  sun  as  it  came  up  over  the  grand 
sea-wall  of  Norway  made  it  resplendent  in  strength 
3* 


58 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


and  beauty.  This  wild  but  noble  coast  looked  a 
fit  home  for  the  Vikings  ; yet  although  it  was  plain 
to  read  what  it  was  in  a sterner  aspect,  still  the  warm 
sun  and  quiet  sea  made  the  atmosphere  as  soft  as 
the  sunny  land  of  France.  The  majestic  cliffs  were 
crowned  with  green,  which  looked  like  fringe  on 
the  sky  line  “ regularly  irregular/’  a beauty  all  their 
own,  to  which  but  few  pens  or  pencils  could  do  jus- 
tice. Breakfast  was  announced,  and  also  this  fact, 
that  we  should  soon  enter  the  Christiania  fiord,  the 
beauties  of  which  exceeded  our  present  view.  It 
required  an  inducement  to  leave  such  fascinations 
for  the  stuffy  cabin  and  poor  fare,  but  we  were 
mortals  ; and  while  we  did  not  “ live  to  eat,”  we 
did  not  think  it  wise  under  the  circumstances  to 
try  to  live  without  eating ; so  hastily  took  a little 
of  what  there  was  before  us,  although  unwilling  to 
lose  a moment  of  what  the  captain  assured  us  was 
a very  rare  morning,  an  opportunity  which  repeated 
visits  might  never  offer  again.  Passing  up  the  fiord 
the  land  closed  in  on  either  side,  not  a mile  across, 
with  a beauty  which  baffles  description.  It  was, 
indeed,  summer  enchantment  to  watch  the  “ high 
gray  limestone  hills,  clothed  with  pine  and  fir-trees 
from  foot  to  brow,  except  in  patches  where  this 
forest  wrapping  was  now  and  then  relieved  by  the 


TO  CHRISTIANIA . 


59 


corn-fields  and  pastures  of  small  homesteads  with 
their  clusters  ol  little  red-roofed  cottages  and 
barns.”  We  passed  some  low  rocky  islands  and 
soft  green  inlets  opening  into  minor  fiords,  also  a 
snug-looking  town,  and  quietly  landed  at  the  chief 
quay,  with  this  exclamation  as  we  stepped  on 
shore,  “ Beautiful  for  situation  on  the  sides  of  the 
North  is  Christiania,  the  capital  of  Norway.” 

What  a quiet  reception  ; nobody  was  clamorous 
for  our  baggage  or  had  any  suggestions  to  make  of 
where  we  went,  any  hotels  to  recommend,  or  serv- 
ices to  offer ; in  short,  we  did  not  seem  of  any  im- 
portance. The  name  of  American  did  not  disturb 
their  tranquillity  in  the  least, — an  experience  so  nov- 
el that  it  made  a pleasant  memory.  Whether  it  be 
the  most  northern  or  southern  capital  of  Continen- 
tal Europe,  from  the  moment  of  entrance  into  a 
modern  hotel  time  and  distance  are  annihilated, 
and  the  world  grows  suddenly  small.  The  small, 
obliging  porter  who  has  received  your  telegram 
gives  you  a cordial  welcome  in  the  language  of 
your  own  country  ; you  are  shown  the  same  kind 
of  apartments  ; you  have  the  same  French  bread 
and  coffee  for  your  breakfast ; a menu  for  dinner 
with  little  variety  (always  excepting  the  salmon  in 
Norway)  - and  everywhere  the  sound  of  your  own 


6o 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


tongue.  Therefore  indoors  the  American  tourist 
finds  himself  at  home  in  the  Grand  Hotel  on  the 
Carl- J ohans-Gade,  in  Christiania.  But  from  with- 
out the  picture  changes:  the  green  in  the  little 
park  is  pale,  the  trees  are  stunted,  the  flowers 
are  few — it  is  plainly  the  North,  although  from 
the  outlook  of  our  windows  there  is  one  positive 
suggestion  of  the  seven-hilled  city. 


CHAPTER  V. 


A FEW  DAYS  AT  THE  CAPITAL  OF  NORWAY. 

Go  where  you  will,  in  any  land  or  stage  of  civil- 
ization, every  capital  has  one  monument  which 
imposes  itself  directly.  It  is  the  edifice  wherein 
authority  is  vested,  which  in  Christiania  is  called 
the  Storthing, — the  Parliament  House  of  Peasants. 
This  is  a modern  building  in  stone,  with  a hand- 
some fagade,  guarded  by  two  lions,  in  granite, 
finely  executed,  which  gives  the  visitor  a memory 
of  Rome,  especially  in  looking  down  the  long  ave- 
nue, terminating  in  a sharp  ascent  to  the  king’s 
palace,  which  sits  as  a crown  on  the  summit.  Mid- 
way between  these  two  buildings  of  the  Govern- 
ment is  a park  on  one  side  of  the  avenue,  opposite 
of  which  stand  the  State  University  buildings,  of 
no  mean  dimensions.  This  seat  of  learning  was 
founded,  in  the  early  part  of  the  present  century, 
by  Ring  Frederick  VI.  of  Denmark,  completed  only 
twenty-five  years  ago,  which  explains  its  new  ap- 
pearance. The  main  building  is  of  classic  style, 

(61) 


62 


A SUMMER  IN  SC  AND  IN  A VIA. 


with  two  wings  at  right  angles,  and  a charming 
situation.  Already  they  have  a fine  library,  sev- 
eral good  collections,  and  at  present  one  thousand 
students  receive  thorough  instruction,  besides  the 
gratuitous  lectures  of  nearly  fifty  professors. 

The  city  boasts  of  a picture-gallery,  but  it  has 
little  of  interest  to  the  visitor  familiar  with  the 
wealth  of  the  great  European  galleries,  either  in 
painting  or  sculpture.  Their  great  artists  are  Tide- 
mant  and  Gude,  and  the  specimens  of  their  work 
which  we  saw  showed  a fine  appreciation  of  what 
nature  had  done  in  this  picturesque  land,  both  in 
drawing  and  color.  The  churches,  too,  are  unin- 
viting, as  neither  the  tastes  of  the  people,  or  the 
demands  of  their  simple  Lutheran  faith,  require  ec- 
clesiastical adornment. 

Like  all  European  countries,  blocks  are  built 
around  courts,  and  the  apartment  is  the  home, — 
although  in  Christiania  there  are  many  private 
dwellings,  of  most  picturesque  style,  built  on  the 
hill-sides,  quite  in  harmony  with  the  beautiful  sur- 
roundings. Although  the  tourist  is  well  assured 
that  Norway’s  capital  is  a modern  city, — fire  having 
repeatedly  ravaged  it, — still  the  eye  searches  eagerly 
for  some  landmarks  of  a country  so  renowned  in 
history,  and  of  which  authors  of  high  antiquity 


AT  THE  CAPITAL  OF  NOR JV A Y.  63 

have  made  honorable  mention.  All  has  the  appear- 
ance of  extreme  youth,  as  though  the  thought  of  a 
town  was  just  awakening ; the  palace  is  new,  with 
no  appearance  of  life  about  it ; also  the  little  cha- 
teau of  Oscarshall,  built  for  the  summer  retreat  of 
royalty. 

There  was  something  oppressive  and  unnatural 
in  this  appearance  of  things,  even  to  visitors  from 
the  new  country,  who  are  supposed  to  be  at  home 
with  small  beginnings ; but  our  land,  at  least  the 
earlier  settled  part  of  it,  seemed  old  in  comparison. 
What  was  the  explanation?  After  all,  Norway  is 
the  youngest  of  all  the  European  nations,  and  has 
not  yet  reached  the  dignified  period  of  threescore 
years  and  ten. 

Another  fact  can  not  be  overlooked.  This  is  the 
North , and  nearly  orie-third  of  its  122,279  square 
miles  lies  in  the  region  of  perpetual  snow.  The 
inhabitants  of  this  land  must  bear  the  impress  of 
Nature  in  its  grand,  sublime,  and  powerful  aspects. 
At  least  we  had  reached  the  capital,  where  “ pleas- 
ures and  palaces”  were  not  in  demand.  Quiet  and 
composure  marked  the  faces  both  on  the  streets  and 
in  the  shops, — a face  which  belonged  to  the  solemn 
aspect  of  country  more  than  the  city ; and  as  only 
about  one-tenth  of  the  population  of  the  entire 


64  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 

realm  leave  the  rural  districts  for  the  town,  the 
sober  face  becomes  national. 

The  one  work  of  art  which  is  indeed  an  orna- 
ment as  well  as  pride  to  the  city,  is  the  eques- 
trian statue  of  Bernadotte, — a name  which  evidently 
thrills  the  hearts  of  both  nations, — and  'justly  so, 
for  it  marks  a glorious  epoch  in  the  history  of  the 
United  Kingdoms.  This  is  emphatically  true  of 
Norway;  in  fact,  it  makes  a birth-day  the  release 
from  a long  period  of  bondage  to  the  Danish  yoke. 
With  the  exception  of  England,  the  constitution  of 
Norway  is  said  to  be  the  oldest  on  record,  which 
as  an  isolated  fact  would  lead  one  naturally  to  sup- 
pose that  here  was  the  cradle  of  liberty,  the  battle- 
ground of  freedom. 

There  must  have  been  a long  pause  in  the  story 
of  patriotism  which  introduces  the  authentic  history 
of  Norway  in  the  tenth  century.  Harold  the  fair- 
haired not  only  still  illumines  the  misty  background 
as  the  brilliant  figure  in  the  annals  of  that  early 
time,  but  no  heroes  worthy  his  record  have  appeared 
along  the  centuries  with  hearts  and  hands  brave 
enough  to  carry  on  the  work  which  he  commenced. 
True,  Harold’s  was  a love  story,  which  is  sometimes 
an  exalted  theme.  At  the  age  of  ten  years  he  was 
left,  by  the  death  of  his  father,  chief  or  petty  king 


AT  THE  CAPITAL  OF  NORWA  Y. 


65 


of  one  of  the  tribes  of  the  country,  and  was  roused 
to  valorous  deeds  by  his  love  for  Gyda,  daughter 
of  a neighboring  king,  who,  as  the  sequel  shows, 
was  a young  woman  of  high  ambition. 

If  woman’s  condition  was  servile  at  that  time, 
here  was  an  honorable  exception  which  could  hardly 
be  equalled  in  self-appreciation  in  any  age  of  the 
world,  as  she  made  this  condition  to  the  young 
chief’s  offer  of  marriage : that  she  would  wed  him 
when  he  had  subjugated  the  whole  country  and 
united  the  tribes  as  a nation.  Hence  the  vow  of 
Harold  Haarfager  that  he  would  not  clip  or  comb 
his  locks  until  he  could  woo  this  fair  maiden  as  sole 
King  of  Norway.  Ten  years  are  said  to  have  been 
given  for  the  maturity  of  these  Samson  locks,  which 
were  doubtless  a potential  factor  in  the  final  victory. 
In  the  meantime  Gyda,  feeling  sure  of  triumph  in 
the  end,  and  apparently  tired  of  waiting,  gave  her 
hand  in  marriage  toward  the  close  of  her  lover’s 
campaigns.  Harold  was  a great  warrior,  but  his 
conquests  drove  many  of  the  noblest  hearts  from  the 
country,  who  preferred  death  rather  than  subjuga- 
tion ; and  from  this  event  began  the  great  piratical 
adventures  of  the  Northmen. 

Those  peaceful  conditions  inaugurated  by  Har- 
old were  not  perpetuated  by  succeeding  sovereigns, 


66 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


but  were  soon  disturbed  by  their  ambitious  and  at 
that  time  powerful  neighbors,  the  Danes,  by  the 
famous  union  of  Calmar,  when  she  lost  her  na- 
tionality and  language  even ; nor  did  she  share  in 
the  revolt  of  Sweden  under  the  great  Gustavus 
Wasa,  by  whose  courage  and  patriotism  her  free- 
dom was  obtained.  No  conquering  hero  appeared 
to  break  this  tyranny  for  Norway,  and  for  two  cen- 
turies after  the  Swedes  became  a free  people,  the 
Norwegians  wore  their  chains  of  bondage,  which 
release  only  came  at  the  dawn  of  the  present  cen- 
tury. At  what  is  called  the  Peace  of  Kiel,  the 
Danes  were  forced  to  acknowledge  Norway  as  a 
part  of  the  dominion  of  Sweden,  at  that  time 
under  the  reign  of  Charles  XIII.  The  dying  strug- 
gle for  supremacy  by  the  Danes  lasted  only  a few 
weeks,  but  long  enough  to  convoke  a national  diet 
of  the  Norwegians  at  Eidsvold,  where  a constitu- 
tion was  hastily  drawn,  which  since  that  time  has 
governed  the  State. 

At  this  eventful  period,  Bernadotte,  one  of  Na- 
poleon’s ablest  generals,  appears  upon  the  stage, 
and  marks  a new  era  in  the  political  history  of  Nor- 
way and  Sweden.  Four  years  after  his  landing  at 
the  North  he  was  crowned  king  of  the  United 
Kingdoms,  fully  conscious  of  the  fact  that  it  could 


A T THE  CAPITAL  OF  NOR  WA  Y. 


67 


not  be  a thornless  crown  of  noble  birth ; he  had 
entered  the  army  when  only  fifteen  years  of  age, 
which  had  naturally  cramped  his  opportunity  for 
study,  or  familiarity  with  other  tongues.  There 
could  have  been  no  stronger  contrast  fourid  any- 
where between  nationalities  than  France  and  those 
North  countries ; so  that  difficulties  were  inevitable, 
even  had  he  ascended  the  throne  of  a prosperous 
country.  This  was,  however,  far  from  being  the 
true  situation,  as  there  was  neither  peace  at  home 
nor  harmony  with  the  nations  abroad.  Strife  reigned 
everywhere, — the  natural  result  of  internal  disturb- 
ances and  years  of  oppression. 

Internal  resources  were  crippled,  finances  ruined, 
industries  paralyzed.  “ While  foreign  States  looked 
askance  at  the  parvenu  king  ” in  an  unknown  land, 
environed  with  an  atmosphere  wholly  uncongenial, 
yet  his  opportunity  was  a great  one  ; and  he,  as 
occasion  unfolded,  and  results  proved,  great  enough 
for  it.  If  personal  ambition  was  his  object,  he 
sought  it  through  the  uplifting  of  the  people. 
During  the  early  years  of  his  administration  he 
offended  the  Norwegians  in  many  ways,  most  of 
all  by  his  opposition  to  their  abolition  of  titles. 
Bernadotte  being  a Frenchman,  had  been  taught 
the  principles  of  economy,  which  was  greatly  need- 


68 


A SUMMER  IN  SCAN  DINA  VIA. 


ed  in  his  impoverished  kingdom,  and  his  wise  ad- 
ministration to  meet  this  necessity  in  every  depart- 
ment suited  the  depleted  wants  of  the  people.  As 
a proof  of  his  love  for  his  subjects,  he  renounced 
his  civil  list  for  ten  years,  in  order  to  help  in  the 
payment  of  the  national  debt ; which  act  of  self- 
denial  not  only  won  the  confidence  and  admiration 
of  his  people,  but  made  them  co-workers  with  him 
in  the  advancement  of  those  enterprises  which  in- 
augurated a more  prosperous  era.  This  review 
of  Norway,  in  the  early  time,  and  at  the  present 
moment,  made  the  colossal  monument  of  this 
founder  of  liberty  of  double  value. 

The  statue,  so  military  and  grand,  stands  in  the 
great  court-yard  in  the  front  of  the  palace,  like  a 
tower  of  strength,  as  though  he  were  protecting 
the  city  which  he  loves,  commands,  and  surveys — 
with  the  king’s  motto  as  an  inscription : “ The 
people’s  love  is  my  reward.”  It  is  interesting  to 
find  in  this  Northland  all  that  remains  as  a living 
power  of  that  august  Emperor,  Napoleon. 

In  the  height  of  his  splendor,  when  this  little 
planet  with  all  its  existing  opportunities  was  a 
sphere  hardly  large  enough  for  his  imperial  hand- 
ling, the  throne  of  Scandinavia  could  not  have 
filled  a moment’s  thought  in  his  powerful  mind. 


A T THE  CAPITAL  OF  NORWA  Y.  69 

Yet,  General  Bernadotte’s  military  genius  and  no- 
bility of  character  were  great  enough  to  rouse  the 
jealousy  of  Napoleon,  and  they  have  been  great 
enough  also,  in  their  self-sacrifice,  honor,  and  pa- 
triotism, to  mark  a successful  epoch  in  the  eleva- 
tion, progress,  and  happiness  of  the  people  over 
whom  he  was  called  to  reign. 

The  reigning  sovereigns  of  this  dynasty,  of  which 
the  fourth,  Oscar  II.,  is  now  on  the  throne,  have 
proved  themselves  noble  sons  of  a noble  sire,  wise 
and  judicious  in  affairs  of  State;  they  have  all 
worked  in  the  same  direction  of  higher  develop- 
ment in  all  that  appertains  to  the  State.  Home 
industries  have  been  encouraged,  art  and  science 
stimulated,  and  reforms  suggested.  So  far  as  internal 
government  is  concerned,  Norway  is  an  absolute 
Republic ; it  is  only  in  their  relations  with  foreign 
affairs  that  they  co-operate  with  Sweden, — an  inde- 
pendence which  was  secured  to  them  by  the  Peace 
of  Kiel. 

This  constitution  vests  the  legislative  power  in 
the  Storthing,  or  Assembly  of  Deputies  chosen  by 
the  people.  Each  deputy  must  have  attained  the 
mature  age  of  thirty  years;  he  must  also  be  a 
property-holder,  and  a resident  of  Norway  for  ten 
years.  This  Parliament  of  Peasants,  so  called, 


70 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


where  three  hundred  sovereigns  direct  the  destinies 
of  the  country,  is  not  the  capital  for  oratory.  The 
mechanism  of  this  constitution  is  made  up  of  all 
classes  in  the  State.  Yet  Norway  does  not  believe 
in  that  class  of  professional  politicians  who  manage 
words  for  their  own  benefit.  They  meet  to  discuss 
frankly  and  freely  the  affairs  of  the  country ; not 
to  orate , but  to  talk, — yielding  to  the  will  of  the 
majority.  This  will,  when  once  pronounced,  is  ac- 
cepted as  final,  by  conquerors  and  conquered,  with- 
out the  subject  being  taken  back  to  their  country 
homes  as  an  apple  of  discord.  This  is  patriotism  ; 
not  always  seen  in  other  countries. 

We  saw  a fine  picture  of  this  serious  branch  of 
the  human  family  as  strongly  drawn  in  contrast 
with  the  French,  who  about  the  time  of  the  great 
work  at  Eidsvold,  were  also  engaged  in  framing 
what  is  called  the  Constitution  of  1789.  The  leg- 
islators of  Eidsvold  were  represented  as  being 
clothed  after  the  rustic  fashion  of  their  ancestors, 
with  wooden  shoes  upon  their  feet,  a placid  firm- 
ness upon  each  face,  as  cool  and  quiet  in  each  word 
as  though  they  were  settling  their  farm  accounts. 
The  artist  represented  the  famous  French  Deputies 
in  the  heat  of  political  passion.  They  stood  arrayed 
in  the  gorgeous  style  of  the  French  Court  of  that 


A T THE  CAPITAL  OF  NOR  WA  Y. 


7 1 


day  ; fire  flashed  from  each  eye  ; eloquence  poured 
from  each  lip  ; and  death  to  them  would  be  joy , 
rather  than  defeat  to  their  idolized,  beloved  France. 
The  work  of  the  brains  of  the  peasants  of  Eidsvold 
still  lives,  while  that  of  the  Frenchmen  lasted  ten 
years. 

The  King  comes  in  as  executive  officer,  through 
a Council  of  State  ; he  must  be  crowned  King  of 
Norway  at  the  ancient  town  of  Drontheim,  and 
spend  at  least  six  weeks  at  the  palace  in  Christi- 
ania. Among  other  obstacles  to  the  success  of  the 
national  prosperity,  nothing  seems  so  insurmount- 
able as  the  antagonism  of  these  separate  races  in 
one,  which  grows  year  by  year,  and  necessarily  does 
not  add  to  the  softness  or  ease  of  the  Crown.  A 
king  of  two  peoples,  absolutely  unlike,  yet  bound 
together  by  common  interests,  surrounded  by  the 
same  climatic  influences,  which  require  the  same 
internal  developments, — the  reigning  sovereign,  if 
a Swede,  must  step  out  of  his  nationality  six  weeks 
of  the  year,  and  be  as  much  a Norwegian  as  though 
he  were  to  the  manor  born.  So  jealous  are  they  of 
receiving  the  smallest  shadow  of  the  court  life  of 
Sweden,  that  the  law  requires  the  King  to  say 
adieux  to  his  official  escort  the  moment  the  royal 
carriage  arrives  at  the  frontier  of  Norway,  where  a 
simple  escort  is  in  waiting  for  his  reception. 


72 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


The  press  is  said  to  be  singularly  just  and  mod- 
erate in  its  treatment  of  every  subject  which  comes 
within  its  scope,  which  secures  for  its  columns  uni- 
versal confidence,  and  makes  it  an  honored  as  well 
as  accepted  authority.  A good  story  is  recorded 
illustrating  its  influence  upon  the  Storthing,  which 
occurred  a few  years  ago.  It  was  during  a season 
of  great  interest  upon  some  vital  matters  of  State, 
which  were  discussed  from  day  to  day,  without  ap- 
parently drawing  nearer  to  a conclusion.  One  of 
the  leading  journals  took  up  the  subject,  and  pub- 
lished an  exhaustive  article.  Both  sides  of  the  ques- 
tion were  so  clearly,  wisely,  and  freely  discussed, 
that  the  Storthing  paused  in  its  debate,  and  unan- 
imously decided  to  wait  until  the  press  closed  its 
long  review,  hoping  thereby  to  be  guided  in  their 
important  decision. 

It  is  to  be  hoped  these  wise  journalists  will 
not  get  so  far  from  home  as  the  United  States 
of  America. 

Although  the  most  democratic  of  all  the  Euro- 
pean States — at  least  such  is  the  fond  dream  of 
Norway — there  is  a touch  of  despotism  in  the  lib- 
erality of  one  of  their  ecclesiastical  laws,  which  has 
a decided  flavor  of  Rome.  No  one  is  legally  mar- 
ried until  previously  confirmed  in  the  Lutheran 


A T THE  CAPITAL  OF  NOR  WA  Y. 


73 


Church.  It  is  to  be  hoped  the  age  of  free-thinking 
is  as  yet  far  removed  from  the  masses,  else  the  law, 
if  a wise  one,  would  soon  be  a dead  letter. 

It  was  gratifying  to  learn  that  in  this  snow-bound 
country,  the  clergyman  was  considered  worthy  of 
his  hire  ; and  that  while  a high  standard  of  educa- 
tion was  required,  the  average  income  was  large 
enough  for  him  to  pursue  its  high  aims,  without 
any  fears  of  the  wolf  at  his  door.  One  thousand 
dollars  a year  does  not  sound  a great  sum  for  a 
pastor  of  our  great  cities,  but  in  the  light  of  some 
statistics  which  appeared  a few  years  ago  concerning 
New  England  church  salaries,  which  only  reached 
an  average  of  five  hundred  dollars  per  annum,  the 
liberality  of  this  poor  land  of  Norway — which 
doubled  that  sum — rose  to  the  height  of  generos- 
ity. As  in  the  sister  State  of  Denmark,  education 
is  compulsory.  Religion  is  taught  in  the  primary 
schools,  which  in  the  public  classical  schools  be- 
comes theology.  So  far  the  preponderance  of  the 
peasantry  seems  to  have  been  a hindrance  to  the 
progress  of  arts ; and,  in  fact,  to  education  in  its 
higher  forms  in  every  department. 

For  over  two  centuries  there  was  a struggle  to 
found  the  university  at  Christiania,  which  was  not 
accomplished  until  i8u,and  even  then  by  the  Dan- 
4 


74 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


ish  King,  Frederick  VI.  The  ever  puzzling  as  well 
as  interesting  question  of  race  has  new  features 
here.  ’Tis  but  a little  way  across  the  waters  to 
Denmark,  which  for  so  long  a period  was  only  the 
southern  boundary  of  the  same  land  ; but  what  a 
different  facial  expression.  There  it  was  cheerful 
and  content,  without  excitement  or  passion ; here 
it  is  reserved,  earnest,  serious,  but  resolute. 

The  peasants  of  Norway  are  not  menials ; but 
the  root  and  stem  of  the  social  tree, — a fact  so  plainly 
read  by  even  a short  visit  at  the  capital,  as  to  re- 
quire no  questioning.  Without  entering  into  the 
various  theories  of  the  early  races  of  Scandinavia, 
and  the  arguments  and  proofs  to  sustain  them,  at 
present  they  are  indisputably  of  one— and  that  of 
the  Gothic  family— which  makes  the  strong  con- 
trasts within  their  own  geographical  limits  unac- 
countable. 

The  Norwegians  abolished  titles  more  than  a half 
century  ago  ; but  like  all  republican  ideas  of  this 
nature,  when  the  dignity  of  house  is  not  fixed  by 
constitutional  or  hereditary  law,  they  are  said  to 
attach  an  importance  to  family  bounded  by  no 
limit.  There  is,  however,  a most  genial,  kindly 
spirit  in  social  life,  and  great  attention  paid  to 
intellectual  culture.  Unlike  the  other  Scandinavian 


A T THE  CAPITAL  OF  NOR  WA  Y. 


75 


capitals,  there  is  no  court  life  in  Christiania,  no 
idlers,  no  beau  monde ; but  an  earnest  devotion  to 
all  that  constitutes  the  beauty  and  refinement  of 
home. 

If  in  this  city  of  113,000  people  there  are  found 
no  records  of  the  past,  there  is  much  which  in  our 
new  land,  at  least,  we  should  say  pointed  to  a fu- 
ture. New  streets  and  blocks  df  buildings  in  all 
directions,  with  plans  of  parks  in  many  a corner, 
show  a movement  in  the  direction  of  growth.  In 
answer  to  our  many  questions,  we  were  told  there 
was  a fresh  awakening  upon  the  question  of  cen- 
tralization, and  that  the  people  were  beginning  to 
learn  that  climate  had  not  been  so  great  a bar  to 
the  growth  of  their  country  as  the  lack  of  railroads, 
good  highways  or  roads,  the  telegraph — which  are 
the  marked  developments  of  the  present  moment. 

This  is  a land  where  work  is  a necessity,  and  this 
a people  who  do  not  wish  to  eat  the  bread  of  idle- 
ness. Fishery  is  the  great  resource  of  the  dwellers 
on  the  coast ; and  so  far  ship-building  is  the  one 
industrial  art.  Judging  from  the  amount  of  lum- 
ber to  be  seen  in  every  direction  there  must  be 
enormous  exports,  as  the  sparse  population  and 
modest  wants  have  only  limited  uses  for  such  piles. 

We  took  a little  trip  to  Dramman,  one  of  the 


y6  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 

suburbs ; and  although  everywhere  the  picturesque 
beauty  of  hills,  woods,  and  fiords  was  absorbing, 
still  the  question  of  what  was  to  be  done  with  the 
lumber  was  unanswerable,  and  the  whole  town 
seemed  one  enormous  saw-mill.  This  looked  en- 
terprising, and  pointed  to  a future  ; but  the  present 
aspect  of  civilization  seemed  amazingly  new.  The 
fine  harbor  is  filled  with  stately  ships  from  every 
zone,  thereby  bringing  them  into  close  relations 
with  the  civilizations  of  the  world,  and  that  their 
long  winter’s  exile  may  not  cut  them  off  from  the 
advantages  of  national  interchange,  a channel  is 
cut  in  the  ice  by  means  of  boats  made  for  that  pur- 
pose, so  that  ships  ride  in  and  out  in  safety.  The 
fisheries  of  the  immense  coast  are  already  enor- 
mous, and  of  growing  importance.  They  boast  of 
a tonnage  which  is  not  excelled  by  any  other  coun- 
try except  England  and  our  own  beloved  America. 

Neither  are  they  destitute  of  shrewdness.  A 
pretty  story  was  told  us  of  the  way  ice  became  a 
valuable  export.  For  years  an  effort  was  made  to 
secure  the  London  market,  but  the  Englishman 
had  decided  that  the  only  luxury  of  that  kind  which 
would  satisfy  his  taste,  must  come  from  Lake  Wen- 
ham.  The  crafty  Norwegian  quietly  gave  one  of 
his  pretty  lakes  this  valuable  name,  and  as  a reward 
secured  the  monopoly  of  the  ice  trade. 


A T THE  CAPITAL  OF  NOR  WA  Y. 


77 


Neither  is  vegetation  so  poor  as  the  high  latitude 
would  indicate,  especially  on  the  western  coast, 
torn  and  rent  and  beaten  by  the  storms  of  the 
Atlantic.  Again  the  inexorable  edict  of  the  Gulf 
Stream — which,  with  the  subtle  question  of  race, 
are  two  abiding  mysteries. 

Baedeker  says,  in  the  same  latitude  in  which 
Franklin  perished  in  the  Arctic  regions  of  America, 
and  in  which  lies  the  almost  uninhabitable  region 
of  East  Siberia,  the  waters  of  these  Western  fiords 
of  Norway  never  freeze  except  in  their  upper  ex- 
tremities. There  are  many  curious  revelations  of 
this  isothermal  line  ; one  being,  that  in  the  depth 
of  winter  the  cold  is  no  greater  at  the  Loffoden  Isl- 
ands than  at  Copenhagen,  the  January  temperature 
being  230. 

The  leniency  of  this  Gulf  Stream  makes  it  possi- 
ble to  raise  wheat  on  the  western  coast  in  as  high 
latitude  as  64^°.  It  is  also  a curious  fact  that  it 
takes  barley  exactly  the  same  time  (ninety  days)  to 
ripen  at  Alton,  70°  north  latitude,  as  at  Christiania 
and  in  the  South  of  France  ; which  is  a confirma- 
tion of  the  theory  quite  generally  believed,  that  the 
great  length  of  the  Arctic  day  (or,  in  other  words, 
light)  goes  far  to  compensate  for  the  lack  of  warmth  ; 
the  seed,  however,  if  brought  from  warmer  lands, 
has  to  be  acclimated. 


78 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


Some  writer  has  justly  said,  that  Nature  has  been 
so  bounteous  to  Norway’s  capital,  that  she  has  no 
need  of  Art.  And  certainly  the  drives  and  walks 
and  views  from  every  point  of  outlook  would  con- 
firm the  statement.  Go  east  or  west,  go  north  or 
south,  under  the  smiles  of  a summer  sky,  it  is  one 
vast  gallery  of  pictures — framed  in  the  ever  tall, 
stately  pine  and  graceful  birch,  broken  by  the  en- 
chanting fiords,  over  whose  smooth  water  the  lit- 
tle vessels  pass  quietly,  bearing  on  its  bosom  the 
peaceful  traffic  of  the  land. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


ACROSS  SWEDEN. 

It  was  only  a glimpse ; a knock  at  the  door  of 
Norway  ; and  a departure.  Not  to  see  the  Loffo- 
den  Islands,  “ those  Alps  in  the  midst  of  the  sea,” 
for  us  was  not  to  see  the  glory  of  Norway.  This  time 
however,  we  could  not  cross  the  Arctic  circle,  and 
must  be  satisfied  with  the  picture  imagination  had 
made  beautiful  of  gigantic  rocks,  against  which  the 
angry  sea,  at  all  states  of  the  tide,  continually  dashes. 

We  had  so  frequently  been  told  that  atrip  across 
Sweden  by  rail  was  not  only  very  fatiguing,  but 
wholly  uninteresting,  that  in  taking  our  seats  in 
the  cars  for  a two  days’  journey  from  Christiania 
to  Stockholm,  we  looked  forward  to  a long  stretch 
of  weariness.  It  was  reassuring  to  find  a luxuriant 
railway  carriage,  where  all  the  appointments  for 
comfort  were  excellent,  even  a tank  of  the  delicious 
water  from  these  limpid  streams,  and  iced  also. 
Apparently  the  princes  of  the  land  or  the  luxuriant 
(if  there  were  such  classes)  in  Norway  did  not  take 

(79) 


8o 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


this  train,  as  we  were  the  sole  occupants  of  the  one 
first-class  carriage,  but  we  were  Americans. 

Leaving  the  city  suburbs,  as  the  train  very  slow- 
ly climbed  a steep  ascent,  we  noted  with  pleasure 
the  neat,  picturesque  homes,  and  rejoiced  to  see 
how  much  beauty  and  ornament  was  made  of  the 
lovely,  graceful  birch,  with  some  combinations  of 
shrubs — in  the  absence  of  flowers,  which  were  mea- 
gre and  lonely  in  this  chilly  atmosphere.  Uncon- 
sciously we  became  absorbed  in  the  waters  of  the 
pretty  Glommon,  rushing  in  such  hot  haste  through 
thicket  and  meadow  to  reach  the  fiord,  bearing  on 
its  surface  quantities  of  logs.  This  is  the  most  im- 
portant river  in  Norway,  from  three  to  four  hun- 
dred miles  long.  It  was  quite  exciting  to  watch 
these  floats  or  rafts  of  lumber,  moving  with  great 
rapidity,  and  requiring  skillful  management.  They 
looked  to  us  a half-mile  in  length,  curling  and  wind- 
ing about  over  obstructions  and  rapids,  which  to 
lookers-on  threatened  momentary  destruction.  In 
many  places  the  whole  surface  of  the  water  was 
covered,  as  though  an  edict  had  gone  forth  to 
build  up  the  entire  valley. 

We  did  not  learn  what  the  school  of  navigation 
was  for  these  raft  engineers ; but  from  our  point  of 
observation,  it  did  not  look  an  idle  or  easy  task  to 


A CROSS  SWEDEN. 


81 


guide  these  floating  forests  safely  over  rocks  and 
waterfalls,  which  in  many  cases  were  cataracts  ; and 
if,  in  this  country  rich  in  beautiful  fiords,  rivers  are 
little  noticed,  the  Glommon  as  a highway  of  traffic 
deserves  high  mention. 

The  sun  had  gone  down,  but  the  twilight  after 
its  delicate  fashion  was  fading  slowly,  and  we  were 
so  absorbed  in  the  river  with  its  novel  commerce, 
that  when  the  train  stopped  at  the  little  town  of 
Kongsvinger  for  the  night,  we  were  surprised  to 
find  that  midnight  was  at  hand.  The  friendly  por- 
ter at  the  Grand  Hotel  in  Christiania  had  heralded 
our  approach  ; securing  us  rooms,  which  we  leisure- 
ly went  in  search  of,  with  a few  Norwegian  words 
at  our  command. 

Imagine  our  surprise  and  disappointment  to  find 
them  already  occupied.  It  had  not  occurred  to 
one  of  us  before  that  we  were  tired  or  hungry  or 
sleepy  ; we  knew,  in  fact,  that  only  a few  hours  lay 
between  us  and  a line  of  march  in  the  early  morn- 
ing. Still  our  rights  were  invaded,  and  to  do  with- 
out beds  for  one  short  night  even,  was  not  to  be 
thought  of ; how  to  get  possession  of  what  was  law- 
fully our  own  was  the  horn  of  dilemma.  The  party 
in  possession  were  talking  earnestly  with  the  landr 
lord  in  the  language  of  the  country,  in  which  we 
4* 


82 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


had  no  voice.  One  of  our  party  made  a forcible 
presentation  of  the  case  in  German,  which  was  re- 
ceived in  silence.  We  asked  our  representative  to 
try  French,  which  he  did  with  great  fluency  ; while 
at  the  same  time  we  began  to  talk  a little  aside 
very  glibly  about  the  situation,  wondering  what  we 
should  do  next  if  this  plan  failed,  which  called  forth 
a roar  of  laughter  from  the  supposed  foreigners, 
who  extended  the  hand  of  fellowship  as  English- 
men. This  pleasant  episode  not  only  adjusted  all 
rights,  but  secured  to  us  charming  travelling  com- 
panions for  many  succeeding  days. 

Doubtless  our  beds  were  more  comfortable,  and 
our  sleep  sweeter  for  the  narrow  escape  we  had  in 
losing  them  ; at  any  rate  we  did  not  complain  when 
roused  at  an  early  hour  to  take  the  railway  carriage 
for  a two  hours’  ride  to  the  Swedish  frontier  Char- 
lottenborg  for  breakfast. 

The  morning  was  rosy,  the  air  invigorating,  we 
were  on  the  threshold  of  Sweden ; in  fact,  we  had 
stepped  across  it,  our  feet  had  touched  its  soil,  and 
although  the  doors  of  the  cafe  were  thrown  wide 
open,  we  still  lingered  outside.  Apparently  Nor- 
way and  Sweden  though  married  were  not  in  aJJ 
respects  one , as  there  was  a demand  for  the  custom- 
house examination,  proving  that  the  same  laws  did 


A CROSS  SWEDEN. 


83 


not  govern  them.  Upon  inquiry  we  found  that 
tourists  going  to  the  Swedish  capital  via  this  route, 
found  the  process  of  examination  was  in  this 
border  town,  while  travellers  going  to  Christiania 
waited  until  they  reached  the  city  before  passing 
this  ordeal. 

More  than  once  on  our  way  to  the  North  we 
had  been  told  by  tourists  whose  experience  we 
could  not  ignore,  that  outside  of  the  Scandinavian 
capitals  one  could  get  nothing  to  eat  which  be- 
longed to  civilization,  and  cited  cases  in  proof,  but 
we  did  not  find  the  entire  statement  true.  The 
cafe  was  such  a dreary-looking  building  outside, 
we  entered  with  misgivings,  to  meet  with  one  of  the 
pleasantest  surprises  of  the  entire  trip.  Instead  of 
black  bread,  raw  fish,  and  cheese — the  very  thought 
of  which  made  us  turn  to  our  well-filled  lunch  bas- 
kets as  to  a feast — we  stood  in  a pretty  breakfast 
room,  with  an  abundance  of  windows  (everywhere 
to  be  found  in  the  North)  filled  with  blossoming 
plants,  and  adorned  with  simple  drapery.  On  a 
long  table  in  the  centre  of  the  room  was  spread 
very  appetizing  fare — salmon  and  potatoes,  beef- 
steak and  mushrooms,  chops  and  pease,  steaming 
from  the  hands  of  a good  cook — and  always  French 
bread.  On  a pretty  round  table  covered  with 


84  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 

dainty  linen  were  spead  coffee  cups  of  finely  dec- 
orated china,  and  in  the  centre  a silver  urn  poured 
forth  such  delicious  fragrance  of  Mocha  that  no- 
body could  resist  it.  The  traveller  walks  about, 
chooses  what  suits  his  own  tastes,  sits  down  to  one 
of  the  little  tables  ranged  around  the  room,  eats  in 
peace,  without  the  clamor  of  waiters  or  the  annoy- 
ance of  unsavory  dishes  about  him,  and  on  leaving 
pays  with  a thankful  heart  the  sum  of  two  kronas 
(fifty-two  cents),  wishing  most  earnestly  that  some 
of  the  powerful  railways  in  the  “ new  countrie  ” 
had  as  comfortable  places  for  refreshment  with  such 
delicious  fare. 

We  could  not  honestly  give  such  high  praise  of 
the  little  sales  outside,  which  the  poor  children 
called  strawberries.  May  be,  if  so,  they  were  the 
wild  berries  of  Sweden,  not  of  our  dear  New  Eng- 
land ; however,  we  were  in  too  good  humor  to  with- 
hold one  small  coin  and  cheering  words  from  these 
honest  seekers  to  earn  a bit  of  money. 

Not  even  the  bright  sun  or  pure  air  could  give  a 
charm  to  the  dreary  country  through  the  barren 
district  of  Wermland,  but  coming  to  the  borders  of 
the  important  Lake  Wenern,  the  succession  of  land 
and  water  views  were  as  soothing  as  they  were  pic- 
turesque. If  the  word  fiord  bears  a charmed  name 


ACROSS  SWEDEN. 


85 


in  Norway,  the  lake  is  of  equal  importance  in  Swe- 
den, for  it  represents  in  many  ways  an  important 
and  interesting  feature  very  naturally,  as  14,000 
square  miles  of  its  surface  is  covered  by  them. 

Lake  Wenern  is  not  only  the  largest  of  the  Swed- 
ish lakes,  but  with  the  exception  of  Onega  and  La- 
goda  in  Northern  Russia,  is  the  largest  in  Europe, 
with  nearly  3,000  square  miles  of  its  own,  93  miles 
long  and  47  wide.  This  immense  body  makes  an 
inland  ocean,  and  fed  as  it  is  by  twenty-four  small 
streams  or  rivers,  some  of  them  coming  from  the 
mountains  of  Norway,  with  only  one  outlet — the 
Gotha  Elf — it  is  not  strange  this  great  outpouring 
of  water,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  North  Sea,  when  contracted  into  so  narrow 
a channel,  should  produce  the  glorious  cataracts  or 
waterfalls  at  Troelhatta — the  Niagara  of  Scandi- 
navia. It  was  only  a glimpse  of  this  beautiful 
water,  with  its  pretty  islands,  we  could  command  ; 
but  stretching  on  its  great  expanse  of  blue  into  the 
distance,  the  charm  seemed  limitless. 

As  the  day  advanced  we  noticed  a marked  change 
in  the  aspect  of  the  country,  both  in  natural  scenery 
and  higher  state  of  cultivation.  The  trees  were 
finer,  the  fields  richer,  vegetation  promising — an 
unmistakable  sign  that  we  were  approaching  the 


86 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


capital,  where  daily  supplies  were  demanded.  The 
railroad,  too,  was  better ; although  no  stretch  of 
the  imagination  could  have  tempted  us  to  say  that 
even  a mile  of  it  was  smooth. 

We  watched  with  growing  interest  the  shortening 
distance,  marked  in  intelligible  letters  on  the  fine 
station-houses,  until  at  last  through  tunnels  and 
over  viaducts  we  entered  the  gates  of  Stockholm, 
with  that  strong  curiosity  and  longing  born  of  in- 
tense desire. 


NORTH  BRIDGE,  GRAND  HOTEL  AND  NATIONAL  MUSEUM, 


CHAPTER  VII. 


STOCKHOLM. 

The  fatigue  of  the  long  and  toilsome  way  stood 
aside  as  we  drove  to  the  Grand  Hotel  in  the  fading 
light  of  day,  where  the  young  manager  received  us 
with  fine  courtesy  (we  were  expected),  and  with  a 
large  package  of  home  mail,  took  us  to  a superb 
apartment  overlooking  the  waters  of  the  Malar  and 
Baltic.  As  our  eye  glanced  over  the  handsome 
salon,  with  a fine  piano  not  flat  against  the  wall, 
but  arranged  for  use,  the  sofas  and  chairs  invitingly 
placed  for  comfort,  and  tables  not  glossy  and  bare, 
but  adorned  with  pretty  covers,  it  seemed  more 
than  a hotel — scarcely  less  than  a home — in  the  or- 
dering of  which  our  tastes  had  been  consulted.  At 
last  we  had  reached  the  goal. 

Our  feet  stood  within  the  walls  of  the  city  our 
eyes  for  many  years  had  longed  to  behold.  The 
comfort  and  elegance  of  this  hotel,  with  its  un- 
rivalled situation,  can  scarcely  be  equalled,  certainly 
not  excelled.  Directly  in  front  the  Baltic  steamers 

(87) 


88 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


have  a landing  for  passengers,  with  a quay  of  granite 
spotless  in  neatness. 

Across  the  Malar  stands  the  Royal  Palace,  which 
dominates  the  city.  On  the  east  side  the  National 
Museum,  from  which  you  command  a glorious  view 
of  the  Baltic  fiord.  Within,  every  arrangement  is 
orderly  and  refined.  An  accomplished  porter,  mas- 
ter of  many  tongues,  meets  the  wants  of  those  to 
whom  the  language  is  strange,  with  that  dignified 
politeness  which  in  every  department  is  a marked 
feature  of  the  house.  Handsome  drawing-rooms 
for  the  great  public,  besides  a fine  suite  for  the 
reigning  sovereign,  always  open -for  inspection  when 
he  is  known  to  be  out  of  the  city ; an  excellent  read- 
ing-room, the  walls  of  which  are  hung  with  maps 
of  the  country  and  its  surroundings,  which  makes 
a very  attractive  place  for  the  traveller  to  whom  the 
geography  is  strange.  The  large  dining  hall  is  sup- 
posed to  be  the  finest  room  in  the  house.  It  has  an 
arched  roof,  elaborately  painted — on  one  side  a gal- 
lery for  an  orchestra,  and  in  front  some  royal  em- 
blems were  suspended,  while  the  wall  was  hung  with 
pictures.  A superb  porcelain  stone,  highly  orna- 
mented, reaching  half  way  to  the  ceiling,  occupied 
a central  position  in  the  room ; and  near  the  en- 
trance we  had  our  first  view  of  the  Smorgas — a pre- 


STOCKHOLM. 


89 


liminary  to  the  dinner,  the  appetizer  so-called.  It 
was  as  strange  as  our  fancy  had  painted  it.  No- 
where could  this  uncivilized  relic  have  been  seen  in 
greater  contrast  with  the  refined  habits  of  to-day 
than  in  this  fine  hall,  with  French  decorations, 
French  cooking,  and  French  service. 

While  at  our  first  dinner  we  noticed  at  an  adjoin- 
ing table  a party  of  four  take  their  seats,  examine 
'the  menu,  give  the  order,  and  then  immediately 
rise,  and  go  to  the  Smorgasbord — covered  with 
strange-looking  dishes,  dried  meats,  fish,  cheese, 
and  wines.  There  they  stood  for  a few  moments  of 
tasting,  and  returned  to  their  dinner.  We  after- 
ward learned  that  they  were  Russians,  who,  as  a 
nationality,  were  the  principal  patrons  of  this  table. 

The  greatest  charm  of  this  hotel  are  the  bed- 
rooms, full  of  little  comforts — three  hundred  and 
sixty  in  all — and  although  they  were  full  nearly  the 
entire  month  of  July,  the  quiet  which  at  all  times 
prevailed  through  the  corridors  was  not  only  unmis- 
takable proof  of  good  housekeeping,  but  also  of 
nice  consideration  for  the  comfort  of  the  guests. 

Stockholm  is  very  disappointing  if  one  expects 
grand  architecture  or  anythingthat  speaks  either  of« 
an  opulent  past  or  great  wealth  of  the  present. 
The  streets  are  irregular  and  featureless,  without 


90 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


ornament  or  display,  and  the  quiet,  which  results 
from  so  much  of  its  business  by  water,  gives  the  im- 
pression at  first  of  less  enterprise  here  than  at  the 
other  Scandinavian  capitals.  But  of  its  situation, 
especially  as  seen  in  the  long,  perfect  days  of  sum- 
mer, the  reality  can  hardly  be  reached  by  the  most 
sanguine  anticipation. 

There  is  no  great  city  in  the  world  where  nature 
and  art  are  brought  into  more  poetic  relations — on 
the  one  cheek  she  is  touched  by  the  ripples  of  the 
lake,  on  the  other  she  is  saluted  by  the  billows  of 
the  sea.  We  had  read  that  this  was  the  Venice  of 
the  North.  High  praise  surely;  but  the  voluptu- 
ous and  poetic  charm  which  surrounds  the  Bride  of 
the  Adriatic  is  far  less  fascinating  or  stimulating 
than  that  which  girdles  this  Northern  Queen  of  the 
Baltic.  ’Tis  built  on  seven-hilled  islands,  but  in  the 
number  seven  is  only  to  be  found  a suggestion  of 
the  imperial  home  of  the  Caesars. 

That  strange  and  overmastering  desire  with 
many  travellers  and  writers  to  find  in  one  place  the 
repetition  of  another,  has  recognized  in  the  pleas- 
ure-loving habits  of  these  people  the  “ Paris  of  the 
•North,”  but  in  the  words  of  an  eminent  French  au- 
thor, in  whose  strangely  enthusiastic  record  of  a 
visit  here  we  found,  not  only  a great  charm,  but 


STOCKHOLM . 


91 


also  some  explanation  of  its  singular  fascination, 
we  can  truly  say,  “ Stockholm  is  not  a copy,  but  an 
original — an  artist’s  proof.” 

The  great  lines  of  the  town — which  seem  a tan- 
gle of  part  land,  islet,  bridge,  and  water  — are 
formed  in  solid  rock,  which  is  everywhere  divided 
by  watercourses,  bringing  the  harbor,  with  its 
forests  of  masts,  along  the  various  streets.  The 
architects  have  in  all  directions  spanned  the  waters 
with  handsome,  arched  bridges  of  granite  and  iron, 
built  miles  of  dock  and  quay,  thus  adding  to,  rather 
than  detracting  from,  the  strength  of  nature,  leav- 
ing this  great  power  of  “ serene  grandeur  and  im- 
mutable beauty  ” untouched  — an  abiding,  gov- 
erning presence. 

On  the  highest  point  of  the  central  island 
(Staden),  standing  on  its  granite  pedestal,  rise  the 
vast  walls  of  the  Royal  Palace  in  majestic  simplic- 
ity. This  was  a design  of  Nicolas  Tessin,  who  was 
appointed  court  architect  to  Queen  Christina.  The 
style  is  Italian  Renaissance,  built  of  stone,  400  feet 
long  and  375  wide.  It  is  six  stories  in  height,  with 
a flat  roof,  and  encloses  a handsome  court  nearly 
square.  The  wings  at  each  corner  are  two  stories 
lower  than  the  centre,  but  in  such  perfect  harmony 
with  the  main  building  as  to  illustrate  the  poetry 


92 


A SUMMER  IN  SCAN  DINA  VIA. 


of  architecture.  Two  of  these  wings  push  on  in 
advance  of  the  others,  and  form  the  side  bounda- 
ries of  a pretty  garden  where  historic  figures  in 
bronze  and  marble  stand  surrounded  by  acacia 
shades,  and  flowers  which  send  forth  their  perfume 
from  Saxon  porcelain.  The  progress  of  this  work 
was  seriously  interrupted  by  the  wars  of  Charles 
XII.,  and  only  came  to  a full  completion  in  1753. 
The  talent  of  the  father  was  inherited  by  his  son, 
Nicodemus  Tessin,  who  finished  what  had  been  be- 
gun in  a manner  which  proved  that  these  able  archi- 
tects of  two  generations  honored  their  opportunity 
of  the  finest  site  in  Europe,  by  building  a palace 
of  classic  beauty  worthy  the  “ Gods.”  The  noblest 
view  is  from  the  northwest  front,  looking  directly 
across  to  the  beautiful  square  of  palaces,  which  de- 
rives its  name  from  Gustavus  Adolphus,  the  hero  of 
Lutzen.  To  the  right  the  eye  stretches  far  out 
upon  the  sparkling  waters  of  the  Baltic  and  its 
teeming  fleet ; to  the  left  the  Malar  Sea  and  pretty 
islands  smile  peacefully,  while  busy  life  hurries  to 
and  fro  or  halts  for  home-day  traffic  on  the  immense 
granite  Norrboro  with  its  seven  handsome  arches, 
on  one  side  of  which  there  seems  to  float  a little 
pleasure  garden.  This  the  revered  Tegner  says  is 
the  spiritual  centre  of  Sweden,  “where  all  the  glow- 


STOCKHOLM. 


93 

ing  history  is  mirrored  in  the  stream  and  the  even- 
ing red.” 

So  lonely  and  strange  is  the  scene  of  islands  and 
bays  in  that  commingling  of  friendly  relations 
which  makes  it  hard  to  decide  whether  land  or 
water  dominate,  that  it  is  not  easy  to  turn  aside  and 
enter  even  palace  doors.  On  the  southeast  entrance 
a broad  esplanade,  called  the  Palace  Hill,  slopes 
down  to  the  quay,  and  is  the  highway  for  the  royal 
carriages.  This  is  surmounted  by  a granite  obelisk 
one  hundred  feet  high,  erected  by  Gustavus  IV.,  to 
commemorate  the  loyalty  of  his  subjects  in  the  war 
with  Russia,  1788-90,  and  on  the  quay  at  the  bot- 
tom stands  an  excellent  bronze  statue  of  Gustavus 
III.,  by  Sorgel — his  masterpiece.  This  was  a gift 
of  the  people  in  honor  of  that  chivalric  monarch. 
Beside  the  interest  which  this  statue  deserves  from 
an  artistic  stand-point,  its  position  is  admirable, 
leaning  upon  a rudder  on  the  very  spot  where  he 
landed  in  triumph  after  his  naval  victories — on  a 
spot  which  commands  a fine  view  of  the  harbor. 
There  is  one  entrance  by  a grand  staircase  leading 
from  the  royal  apartments  to  the  outer  court,  which 
has  great  architectural  beauty.  It  is  splendidly  or- 
namented with  pillars  and  niches  holding  porphyry 
urns,  medallions  of  ancient  kings,  bronze  figures. 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 


94 

etc.,  but  in  the  main  the  decorations  are  of  the 
simplest  kind.  There  are  some  bas-reliefs  in  the 
vestibules  of  ancient  heroes  administering  justice 
in  curious  ways — at  least  so  it  seemed  to  us  ; but 
they  can  easily  be  used,  however,  as  historic  pegs 
for  the  sovereigns  of  to-day  to  balance  their  virtues 
upon.  After  all,  the  inside  of  a royal  abode  is  al- 
ways the  same.  The  grand  salons,  audience-rooms, 
ball-rooms,  throne-rooms  have  the  same  pictures, 
curios,  bronzes,  gilt,  damask,  carving,  ebony,  etc., 
everywhere,  and  are  a weariness  to  the  flesh,  of 
which  this  visit  was  not  an  exception,  until  we  were 
shown  the  family  apartment. 

Whether  in  other  lands  this  has  been  an  enclo- 
sure too  sacred  for  vulgar  eyes  to  look  upon,  or 
whether  in  this  beautiful  North  life  was  more  simple, 
we  know  not ; but  certain  it  is,  we  opened  ours  up- 
on this  opportunity  with  interest,  and  to  the  fact 
that  life  seemed  to  exist  in  its  social  and  domestic 
relations  here  very  much  after  the  fashion  of  other 
households.  Neither  were  we  without  proof  that 
the  present  sovereign,  Oscar  II.,  who,  coming  to 
the  throne  a very  few  years  ago,  upon  the  death  of 
his  brother,  Charles  XV.,  had  spent  his  early  life 
in  scholarly  pursuits,  and  had  justly  earned  the 
reputation  of  artist,  poet,  musician,  and  student. 


STOCKHOLM . 


95 


The  Chapel  Royal  had  some  paintings  and  carv- 
ings worthy  of  note,  but  to  our  republican  minds 
its  chief  interest  lay  in  the  announcement  that  it 
was  open  for  everybody  during  the  hours  of  divine 
service.  As  our  whole  visit  was  made  in  company 
with  a wholesome  peasant  woman  adorned  for  the 
purpose  with  a fine  white  handkerchief  for  her 
head,  and  an  enormous  alpaca  apron,  receiving 
from  the  guides  the  same  attention  with  ourselves 
(although  she  did  not  pay  any  kronas),  we  began  to 
feel  that  there  were  democratic  branches  to  this 
royal  tree — an  opinion  amusingly  confirmed  by  our 
waiter  at  the  hotel,  who  often  served  as  valet  de 
place , exclaiming,  with  immense  delight  as  we  halted 
to  look  at  a portrait  of  the  Crown  Prince,  “ Oh ! 
he’s  splendid  ; he  talks  to  us  just  like  nothing 
when  he’s  at  the  Grand.” 

But  a few  moments’  walk  from  the  Palace  stands 
the  Westminster  of  Sweden,  Riddarsholm  Church, 
but  unlike  the  noble  Abbey  in  London,  it  is  now 
used  only  as  a mausoleum.  Originally  it  was  built 
as  a Franciscan  convent,  in  pure  Gothic  style;  but 
fires  and  re-constructions  have  made  the  present  ar- 
chitecture wholly  undefinable,  especially  from  the 
stand-point  of  the  cast-iron  perforated  spire,  300 
feet  high,  so  strange  by  the  light  of  day  and  so 


96 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


picturesque  at  night,  with  the  stars  shining  through 
the  delicate  tracery.  Within  the  walls  the  sover 
eigns  of  the  nation  rest  under  the  torn  and  tattered 
banners  which  led  their  armies  to  battle,  marking 
the  defeats  and  conquests  of  their  reigns.  Looking 
through  an  open,  grated  door  of  a chapel  we  see 
the  piled-up  drums  and  hanging  flags  of  the  heroic 
and  chivalrous  Gustavus  Adolphus.  Underneath, 
the  body  rests  in  a sarcophagus  of  Italian  marble, 
and  is  the  shrine  before  which  the  heart  of  Protest- 
ant Sweden  bows.  Opposite,  in  the  Caroline 
Chapel,  is  a noticeable  sarcophagus  of  white  on  a 
pedestal  of  green  marble,  covered  with  a lion  skin 
in  brass  gilt,  and  below,  under  a glass  lid,  lies  a 
dress  shot  through,  with  a pair  of  long,  thick  boots 
near  by.  This  is  now  the  narrow  realm  of  the  fiery, 
wandering,  hero  king,  Charles  XII. 

Next  in  interest  is  the  beautiful  chapel  of  the 
present  dynasty.  In  a massive  sarcophagus  of 
Elfdal  porphyry,  copied  from  that  of  Agrippa  in 
Rome,  rest  the  ashes  of  Charles  XIV. — or,  as  the 
Swedes  love  to  say,  Bernadotte, — while  in  a vault 
underneath,  ornamented  with  untold  richness  and 
splendor,  are  to  be  seen  the  cofifins  of  the  deceased 
households  of  the  line.  Everywhere  under  the 
vaulted  roof  and  on  the  walls  are  hung  the  trophies 


STOCKHOLM. 


97 


and  armorial  bearings  of  the  Princes  of  the  realm 
far  down  the  centuries.  “ A thousand  flags  that 
once  waved  to  the  peal  of  music  and  the  clang  of 
arms,  to  the  darted  javelin  and  the  cannon’s  roar,” 
moulder  here  with  the  proudest,  mightiest  men  of 
the  nation,  alike  perishable.  Almost  all  the  kings 
of  Sweden  slumber  here  ; at  least  we  saw  the  tomb 
of  Magnus,  and  read  thereon  that  he  died  in  the 
13th  century.  The  floor,  too,  is  covered  with  stones 
which  mark  the  names  of  the  illustrious  dead,  while 
the  walls  of  the  choir  are  draped  with  shields  of  the 
renowned  Knights  of  the  Seraphim,  noticeably 
among  them  the  names  of  Napoleon  Bonaparte  and 
Napoleon  III. 

A short  bridge  of  granite  connects  the  royal  sep- 
ulchre with  a building  rich  in  grand  events  of 
national  history — the  “ House  of  the  Assembly  of 
Nobles.”  The  walls  are  hung  with  over  3,000 
shields,  representing  every  illustrious  family  of 
Sweden,  and  recalling  many  a deed  of  honor,  the 
story  of  which  has  gone  abroad  to  other  lands. 
The  Nobles  of  the  house  of  Wasa  are  here  en- 
shrined, and  here  the  first  Gustavus,  having  freed  the 
subjects  of  his  realm  from  the  tyranny  of  Christian 
II.  of  Denmark,  received  their  most  faithful  hom- 
age ; and  here,  too,  the  great  Gustavus  Adolphus, 
S 


98 


A SUMMER  IN  SCAN  DINA  VIA . 


on  the  eve  of  his  departure  for  those  conquests 
which  ended  only  with  his  life,  made  a free-will  of- 
fering of  himself  for  his  beloved  people  in  that  ex- 
quisitely simple  and  touching  manner,  before  his 
assembled  subjects,  which  the  historians  of  the 
“Thirty  Years’  War  ” have  faithfully  preserved. 

The  Royal  Library  in  Stockholm  has  been  sub- 
ject to  many  vicissitudes,  which  explains  its  present 
meagre  appearance.  Gustavus  II.  gave  the  orig- 
inal fine  collection,  with  valuable  manuscripts,  to 
the  University  at  Upsala  just  before  his  death. 
His  faithful  daughter,  Christina,  who  was  as  remark- 
able in  childhood  for  mental  acquirements  as  she 
was  later  on  for  intrigues,  made  a collection  with 
great  rapidity,  one  worthy  the  name  of  her  father, 
and  presented  it  to  the  State ; but  upon  the  abdica- 
tion of  her  faith,  she  sent  it  as  a personal  gift  to 
the  Vatican  in  Rome. 

The  richest  collection  of  all,  subsequently  gathered 
by  Charles  X.,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1697,  leaving 
the  present  small  family  of  200,000  in  its  infancy — 
not  only  numerically,  but  also  in  value — as  the  manu- 
scripts of  former  times  have  found  other  homes. 
They  have  one  manuscript,  however,  of  historic 
value — of  the  Gospels — written  in  Gothic  charac- 
ters of  gold,  upon  folio  leaves  of  vellum,  known  as 


STOCKHOLM, 


99 


the  “ Codex  Aureus,”  and  supposed  to  have  been 
the  work  of  the  6th  or  7th  century.  A remarkable 
Anglo-Saxon  inscription  is  found  in  the  book  which 
is  curious  even  to  the  unlearned,  but  of  especial 
value  to  the  antiquarian  and  scholar.  The  transla- 
tion says : “ In  the  name  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ, 
I,  Alfred  Aldorman,  and  Werburg  my  wife,  ob- 
tained this  book  from  a heathen  war  troop  with  our 
pure  treasure,  which  was  then  of  pure  gold.  And 
this  did  we  for  the  love  of  God,  and  our  souls’  be- 
hoof, and  for  that  we  would  not  that  this  holy  book 
should  longer  abide  in  heathenesse,  and  now  will 
we  give  it  to  Christ’s  Church,  God  to  praise,  and 
glory  and  worship  in  thankful  remembrance  of  His 
passion,  and  for  the  use  of  the  holy  brotherhood, 
who  in  Christ’s  Church  do  daily  speak  God’s  praise, 
and  that  they  may  every  month  read  for  Alfred  and 
for  Werburg  and  for  Ahldryd  (their  daughter)  their 
souls  to  eternal  health,  as  long  as  they  have  de- 
clared before  God  that  baptism  (holy  rites)  shall 
continue  in  this  place.  Even  so  I,  Alfred,  Dux, 
and  Werburg  pray  and  beseech  in  the  name  of  God 
Almighty,  and  of  all  His  Saints,  that  no  man  shall 
be  so  daring  as  to  sell  or  part  with  this  holy  book 
from  Christ’s  Church  so  long  as  baptism  there  may 
stand.  (Signed)  Alfred,  Werburg,  Ahldryd.”  This 


100 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


manuscript  was  purchased  in  Italy,  but  beyond  the 
fact  that  it  was  once  the  property  of  Canterbury 
Cathedral  no  trace  of  its  wanderings  has  ever  been 
found. 

Another  curious  manuscript  found  here  is  a huge 
copy  of  the  Bible,  which  the  Swedes  discovered  in 
a convent  at  Prague,  written  on  three  hundred  pre- 
pared asses’-skins  ; and  from  a hideous  illumination, 
prefixed  to  an  appended  collection  of  incantations 
against  robbers,  maladies,  etc.,  it  grew  to  be  called 
the  Devil’s  Bible. 

This  is  a new  and  fine  building,  with  a grand 
staircase,  on  which  stands,  as  the  crowning  orna- 
ment, a colossal  group  of  Axel  Oxenstierna  (by 
Sergei)  recounting  to  the  seated  figure  of  History 
the  deeds  of  Gustavus  Adolphus, — so  full  of  art, 
both  in  thought  and  execution,  as  to  arrest  the 
steps  of  the  visitor,  that  he  too  may  be  a learner 
from  the  lips  of  the  able  chancellor. 

On  the  small  island  of  Helgeandsholm,  occupied 
by  the  foreign  office  departments,  we  passed  a pleas- 
ant hour  at  the  royal  stables ; and  although  these 
beautiful  animals  could  nowhere  be  seen  to  such 
fine  advantage  as  in  the  streets,  where  any  kind  of 
equipage  has  but  little  display ; yet  this  family  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty,  without  their  gilded  trap- 


STOCKHOLM. 


IOI 


pings,  were  quite  as  good  exhibitors  in  their  stable  as 
on  the  highway.  That  the  king  thinks  them  worthy 
of  great  names,  written  over  each  stall,  was  plain 
by  a few  Shakespearian,  but  mainly  from  the  gods 
and  heroes  of  the  Greek. 

A short  walk  from  this  spot  takes  the  visitor  to 
quite  another  atmosphere, — the  old  market-place, — 
the  tragic  scenes  of  which  in  the  centuries  gone 
time  can  not  bridge.  Many  dark  memories  are 
gathered  here,  one  of  which,  the  Blood-Bath,  will 
always  stand  out  as  the  most  terrible  event  in  the 
annals  of  Swedish  history.  The  house  which  wit- 
nessed this  horrible  deed  is  replaced  by  the  modern 
Borsen ; but  if  the  guide  can  not  to-day  point  to 
the  balcony  where  Sweden’s  executioner,  Christian 
II.  of  Denmark,  sat  and  watched  his  victims  fall, 
one  by  one,  with  savage  delight,  the  fact  has  a 
deeper  memorial  in  the  hearts  of  the  people  than 
could  be  found  in  granite  walls.  And  although  at 
this  distance  of  time  even,  one  recoils  from  a tragedy 
so  awful,  yet,  let  it  be  remembered,  it  proved  the 
sacrificial  offering  from  which  came  the  liberation 
from  long  years  of  bondage,  and  with  it  the  return 
of  peace  and  prosperity  throughout  the  realm. 

If  one  is  interested  in  the  costumes  of  a country, 
especially  as  seen  in  the  working  or  holiday  peas- 


102 


A SUMMER  IN  SCAND1NA  VIA. 


ants’  dress,  go  to  the  Ethnographic  Museum.  The 
interiors  of  these  simple  dwellings  are  carefully  re- 
produced, with  their  appointments  of  living,  the 
bridal  dress,  etc.,  many  of  them  quite  artistic  in  ar- 
rangement of  color.  There  is  also  an  Academy  of 
Sciences,  with  plans  and  collections  full  of  promise 
for  the  future;  but  of  past  record  the  name  of 
Linnaeus,  as  their  first  director,  seems  the  crown- 
ing honor. 

A Museum  of  Scandinavian  Curiosities  is  not  a 
misnomer,  and  to  make  one  visit  is  a guarantee  of 
another.  There  are  many  rooms  exclusively  filled 
with  the  products  of  the  country,  full  of  interest  and 
education ; and  what  was  pleasing,  and  in  strong 
contrast,  was  a fine  collection  of  tapestries  (Ori- 
ental stuffs),  curiosities  of  that  age. 

It  was  an  agreeable  surprise,  also,  to  find  a Soci- 
ety of  Decorative  Art,  with  many  departments  of 
work,  and  many  workers  as  well.  This  was  a place 
of  frequent  resort,  where  there  were  no  fetters  of  a 
strange  tongue,  as  they  seemed  clearly  to  understand 
the  advantage  of  good  English  in  this  etablishment. 
The  designs  in  the  artistic  work  were  limited,  but 
the  colors  were  beyond  a criticism.  The  singular 
fascination  in  all  the  specimens  of  work,  however, 
we  found  in  the  product  of  the  DalecaMian  peas- 


STOCKHOLM. 


103 


antry,  who  in  their  long  winters,  shut  out  by  their 
high  latitude  and  shadowy  mountains  from  the  in- 
spiration of  sunshine,  surrounded  by  the  drudgery 
of  manufacturing  towns,  without  instruction  of  any 
kind,  or  contact  with  beauty, — except  in  very  lim- 
ited forms, — have  worked  out  this  indisputable  fact, 
that  art  is  innate. 

Sweden  has  within  a few  years  completed  a fine 
building  as  its  National  Museum,  which  well  repays 
some  consideration.  It  was  designed  by  a Berlin 
architect,  Sttiler,  in  the  Renaissance  style,  with 
round-arched  Venetian  windows,  and  a portal  of 
Swedish  marble.  Over  the  front,  which  overlooks 
the  sea,  commanding  a view  of  the  Royal  Palace, 
are  enshrined,  in  bas-reliefs,  men  who  have  made 
their  country  illustrious  in  the  wide  range  of  art 
and  science.  Tessin  the  architect,  Sergei  the  sculp- 
tor, Tegner  the  poet,  Linnaeus  the  botanist,  Wallin 
the  orientalist,  Berzelius  the  chemist,  and  above 
them  all  the  beloved  sculptor  Fogelberg,  whose 
colossal  statues  of  Odin,  Thor,  and  Freyar  adorn 
the  lower  vestibule. 

There  is  to  be  found  here  an  arrangement  in  har- 
mony with  the  exhibit  of  stone  or  flint,  bronze,  and 
iron,  which  makes  the  Museum  of  Northern  An- 
tiquities in  Copenhagen  so  famous,  but  altogether 


104 


A SUMMER  IN  SCAN  DINA  VIA. 


inferior  to  what  can  be  seen  there.  It  contains, 
however,  a valuable  collection  of  coins,  50,000  in  all 
— Cufic,  Anglo-Saxon  kings — said  to  be  finer  than 
that  of  the  British  Museum ; but  the  antiquarian 
and  scholar  will  pause  longest  over  some  Greek  and 
Roman  coins,  which  date  back  to  the  Christian  era, 
and  were  found  in  the  south  of  Sweden,  proving 
that  the  spirit  of  exploration  is  by  no  means  a 
modern  development. 

The  second  story  is  occupied  mainly  as  galleries 
for  paintings  and  sculpture,  and  although  the  former 
has  nearly  1,500  pictures — where  we  read  the  names 
of  Rubens,  Van  Dyck,  Correggio,  Titian,  with  other 
lights  which  have  for  so  many  years  illuminated  the 
world  of  art, — still  this  is  a poor  collection,  and  the 
few  good  works  are  inharmoniously  placed  with 
much  that  is  inferior.  The  sculpture  is  arranged 
in  small  galleries,  and  much  superior  to  the  paint- 
ings. 

The  Hall  of  Endymion  has  a beautiful  statue  of 
the  “ Sleeping  Endymion,”  the  gift  of  Gustavus  III. 
This  royal  sovereign  has  a gallery  dedicated  to  his 
memory,  which  holds  three  gems  of  Swedish  mas- 
ters — Sergei’s  “ Amor  and  Psyche,”  Bystrom’s 
“Juno  and  Hercules,”  and  Fogelberg’s  “ Venus  and 
Apollo.”  Yet  after  Thorwaldsen  there  is  little 


STOCKHOLM.  I05 

to  claim  attention  here.  There  is  real  inter- 
est in  the  large  Hall  of  Sovereigns,  as  the  historical 
costumes  and-  regalia  amid  a strange  people  afford 
genuine  information.  Birger  Jarl,  the  founder  of 
Stockholm,  stands  before  the  visitor,  clad  in  the 
armor  of  his  own  time  ; the  two  great  heroes,  Gus- 
tavus  Adolphus  and  Charles  XII.,  are  immortalized 
among  these  national  treasures,  as  well  as  Gustavus 
III.  and  his  assassin,  Ankerstrom,  in  a manner 
which  must  add  useful  information  to  the  learner. 

The  Museum  has  a fine  collection  of  engravings 
and  drawings,  the  foundation  of  which  was  laid  by 
Count  Tessin  in  the  Croyat  collection,  which  num- 
bers at  present  over  50,000  plates.  Among  the 
drawings  are  some  noticeably  fine,  from  the  Nether- 
land  schools,  a few  genuine  bits  of  work  from  Ru- 
bens, Teniers,  and  Rembrandt. 

The  exterior  of  the  building  is  very  pleasing — ■ 
simple  and  classic — girded  on  three  sides  by  the  sea, 
while  to  the  east  an  iron  bridge  of  many  arches 
(underneath  which  the  little,  gay  steamers  are  con- 
tinually passing)  spans  the  water  to  Skeppsholmen, 
the  naval  port  of  the  town ; and  to  complete  the 
picture,  a pretty  mediaeval  building,  with  its  turrets 
and  pinnacles,  stands  on  the  opposite  side  qf  the 
quay. 

5* 


io 6 


A SUMMER  IN  SC  AN  DIN  A VIA . 


If  book-stores  are  the  criterion  of  the  culture  of 
the  place,  there  can  be  no  doubt  of  the  require- 
ments of  this  people,  as  they  not  only,  vie  with  the 
larger  capitals  in  a wide  range  of  literature,  but  also 
in  that  of  many  tongues  ; and  we  could  but  pay  the 
polite  attendant  with  unspoken  thanks  for  the 
pleasure  of  our  introductory  visit,  as  the  first  book 
we  chanced  to  take  up  was  the  new  volume  of 
poems  by  E.  C.  Stedman,  which  took  us  at  once 
beyond  the  sea  to  our  early  home,  “ the  heart  of 
New  England.”  As  for  photographs  they  were  as 
endless  as  they  were  beautiful — the  outcome  of  the 
delicious  light. 

Within  and  without  the  city  walls  stand  fine 
school  buildings,  also  hospitals  for  the  sick,  maimed, 
and  impoverished.  Noticeably  among  them  a home 
for  helpless  children,  the  gift  of  the  late  beloved 
Queen  Louisa,  whose  tender  thought  for  the  little 
ones  is  not  confined  to  the  capital,  but  is  so  admin- 
istered as  to  reach  corresponding  needs  throughout 
the  realm. 

A sweet  custom  is  observed  here  of  foster-days. 
Every  day  of  the  year  is  named,  which  gives  the 
opportunity  for  continual  holidays  in  the  household. 
This  fact  was  brought  to  our  minds  one  day  in 
passing  the  simplest  of  homes,  which  we  saw 


STOCKHOLM. 


107 

decorated  over  the  door,  and  a dear  little  girl,  with 
blonde  hair,  dressed  in  white,  crowned  with  flowers. 
We  were  told  this  was  Emma  day,  and  learned  what 
the  pleasant  tradition  meant. 

We  awoke  one  morning  to  find  the  streets  filled 
with  flowers.  They  were  in  shop  windows,  worn 
by  the  ladies,  decorated  the  button-holes  of  the 
gentlemen,  and  carried  by  the  children.  The  little 
steamers  were  ornamented  with  foliage  in  fanciful 
ways,  and  we  found  upon  inquiry  that  this,  the 
third  week  of  July,  was  celebrated  as  “ Flower 
Week,”  in  honor  of  the  saintly  names  which  fill 
that  calendar,  of  which  the  beloved  Queen  Louisa 
was  one.  This  was  the  holiday  week  also  for  the 
clubs,  which  we  watched  from  our  windows  hour  by 
hour  as  they  embarked  from  the  Baltic  quay,  in 
their  gaily-decked  steamers,  for  an  outing  among 
the  islands. 

The  Scandinavians  have  the  reputation  of  know- 
ing better  how  to  appreciate  their  living  and  honor- 
ing their  dead  heroes  than  any  other  race,  and  cer- 
tainly (although  they  are  not  imposing)  it  would  be 
hard  to  find  a city  with  a greater  number  of  palaces 
or  statues,  or  inscriptions  in  proportion  to  its  size, 
than  Stockholm.  Kings  in  bronze  and  marble  are 
mounted  in  squares.  Thinkers  and  writers  appear 


io8 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


to  dream  amid  the  verdure  of  the  parks.  The 
statues  of  Berzelius,  the  chemist,  and  Linnaeus,  the 
botanist,  stand  beside  the  kings  Gustavus  Adol- 
phus, the  venerated  hero,  and  Charles  XII.,  the  be- 
loved, while  everywhere  one  reads  the  sentiment  of 
immortality. 

We  were  so  fortunate  as  to  be  sharers  in  one  of 
these  national  ovations, — the  Festa  of  Bellmann, 
Sweden’s  Anacreon,  whose  statue  in  bronze  we  had 
greatly  admired,  not  only  from  its  artistic  merit, 
but  also  from  its  surroundings  in  one  corner  of  the 
great  park,  which  it  was  designed  to  dedicate.  He 
died  a century  ago,  but  lives  to-day  in  freshest 
memory.  The  26th  of  every  July  the  city  decks 
herself  with  its  fairest  adornments  for  a grand  holi- 
day in  his  honor;  business  is  suspended  that  all 
classes  may  be  sharers  in  this  pleasure.  We  were 
told  the  preceding  day  what  and  where  the  cere- 
monies were  to  be ; but  when  morning  came  we 
found  to  reach  the  Djurgarden,  the  scene  of  the 
ovation,  required  the  enterprise  of  having  seats  se- 
cured, which  we  had  failed  to  do,  and  were  obliged 
to  watch  during  the  day  from  a disappointing  dis- 
tance. However,  all  was  not  lost,  especially  the 
history  of  the  man  at  whose  feet  we  saw  the  nation 
pouring  its  unstinted  homage. 


STOCKHOLM . 


IO9 

Bellmann  was  a Swede  of  the  humble  class,  un- 
taught in  song;  but  that  the  fire  burned  within 
was  even  to  himself  a discovery  when,  as  a boy  on 
a sick-bed,  he  took  an  old  lyre,  brought  by  his 
grandfather  from  Italy,  and  began  to  improvise. 
From  this  new  birth  and  baptism  he  arose  and  be- 
came a wanderer  through  the  streets,  booths,  gar- 
dens,— in  fact,  everywhere  among  the  people  suited 
for  studies, — and  entranced  his  audiences,  in  song, 
with  vivid  living  pictures  of  his  time. 

Underlying  all  his  improvisation  was  the  purest, 
kindliest  thought,  reformatory  and  elevating  in 
purpose,  with  deep  spiritual  meaning,  which  was 
an  uplifting  of  the  people.  He  became  a prime 
favorite  of  Gustavus  III.,  who  sent  for  him  on  all 
occasions  at  court ; and  a pretty  incident  is  left  on 
record  showing  the  pleasant  relations  that  existed 
between  them,  the  ready  wit  of  the  songster,  and 
the  appreciation  of  the  sovereign.  “ Bellmann,  you 
are  dull,”  said  the  king  one  day,  meeting  him.  “You 
can’t  rhyme  to-day.”  The  poet  burst  forth  : 

King,  my  money-box  is  empty, 

My  lyre  have  I sold ; 

But  within,  on  my  drinking-glass, 

Is  Gustaf’s  name  in  gold. 

This  impromptu  created  a fine  business  for  the 


iio 


A SUMMER  IN  SC  AN  DIN  A VIA. 


merchant  in  the  city,  as  no  table  was  complete 
without  fine  glass  decorated  with  gilt  crowns,  and 
the  initial  of  the  favorite  sovereign. 

When  this  life  closed  in,  the  poet  and  songster 
summoned  his  friends  about  his  bed,  and  touching 
his  lyre,  sang  in  notes  of  simple,  humble  thanksgiv- 
ing, the  good  things  of  his  life;  the  kindness  of 
friends ; his  love  for  the  king ; his  praises  to  God, 
the  Giver  of  all ; when,  turning  to  those  about  him, 
he  said  his  farewell  to  each  in  a couplet  most  ten- 
der, and,  as  the  night  wore  on,  fell  into  his  last 
sleep,  full  of  the  hope  of  immortality,  with  song 
upon  his  lips.  His  lyre  now  hangs  on  the  walls  of 
the  Museum,  a sacred,  honored  relic. 

The  evening  of  this  jubilee-day  is  devoted  to  the 
songs  of  Bellmann  in  the  large  gardens  of  Hassel- 
backen,  where  we  arranged  for  good  seats.  The 
great  audience,  which  was  perfectly  quiet,  sat  in 
the  open  air;  and  the  choral  songs,  wholly  by  male 
voices,  were  given  from  a midway  balcony  of  the 
hall.  The  most  fastidious  lover  of  music  must 
have  been  satisfied,  and  have  taken  away  the  re- 
membrance that  this  was  a novel  pleasure  of  mel- 
ody and  harmony,  which  might  not  come  again. 
Neither  did  it  seem  a strange  thing  that,  from  so 
pure  an  atmosphere  as  surrounded  us,  this  land 


STOCKHOLM. 


Ill 


of  the  North  should  have  sent  forth  to  gladden 
the  world  such  songstresses  as  Jenny  Lind  and 
Christine  Nilsson. 

One  pleasant  memory  in  connection  with  this 
and  smaller  festivals,  while  in  Stockholm,  will  not 
be  forgotten, — an  absence  of  excitement  or  dissi- 
pation, a proof  of  what  was  the  result  of  inquiry, — 
that  a great  change  had  come  over  the  Swedes,  in 
the  use  of  intoxicating  drinks,  within  a few  years. 
This  we  fully  realized,  also,  in  a long  railroad  trip, 
when  the  sudden  illness  of  one  of  our  party  forced 
us  to  ask  at  one  of  the  stations  for  some  brandy, 
without  success, — for  the  reason,  said  the  chief 
official,  that  the  law  of  the  State  interdicted  the 
sale  of  any  liquors  by  railroad  companies.  We 
were  also  pleased  at  the  absence  of  squalid  poverty 
and  beggary.  Not  one  of  our  party  were  asked 
alms  during  the  entire  month.  As  our  life  was  out 
of  doors  we  could  see  it,  unconcealed ; and  the 
humblest,  poorest  streets  had  one  element  of  taste, 
— the  flowering  plants  in  the  windows,  which  told 
its  own  little  story. 

As  in  Denmark  and  Norway,  the  Church  is  Evan- 
gelical Lutheran ; and  if  the  crowds  who  flocked 
into  and  out  of  the  church  doors  which  we  passed 
in  going  to  the  chapel,  which  the  English  nation 


1 12 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


does  not  forget  to  plant  in  every  land  and  clime, 
were  a criterion  of  the  honor  in  which  they  hold 
their  faith,  as  well  as  .the  quietness  of  the  Sunday 
hours  from  morning  until  evening,  the  inference 
must  be  that  this  was  not  a period  of  religious 
decay. 

Looking  on  the  map  of  Stockholm  and  its  ad- 
juncts, one  feels  that  it  is  an  archipelago.  The 
islands  of  the  Malar  stretch  far  into  the  interior; 
and  as  for  the  Baltic,  although  we  sailed  on  its 
waters  daily,  and  each  day  a longer  trip,  yet  it  was 
with  no  prospect  of  looking  out  upon  the  broad 
sea.  It  is  on  these  numberless  excursions,  how- 
ever, among  the  soft  pictures  of  both  waters,  the 
air  ineffably  pure,  with  no  bar  of  mid-day  heat  or 
damps  of  evening  dew,  or  boisterous  winds,  in  a 
light  clearly  the  “ Offspring  of  Heaven’s  First-Born,” 
that  the  greatest  pleasure  of  a visit  to  this  Northern 
capital  is  to  be  found.  And  very  gratifying  it  was 
to  see  that  this  had  become  a recognized  fact 
among  the  civilized  nations  of  to-day,  as  on  the 
books  at  the  Grand  Hotel  were  registered  names 
of  visitors  from  every  country  in  Europe,  except 
Turkey  and  Greece,  during  the  month  of  July. 

The  deck  of  a pretty  steamer  which  on  bright 
days  decorates  the  waters  with  gay  colors,  gliding 


STOCKHOLM. 


113 

by  the  long  reaches  of  coast,  fringed  with  russet 
rocks,  every  crevice  tufted  with  soft  birch  or  pine, 
turning  hither  and  thither  through  almost  impas- 
sable passes,  and  with  each  bend  opening  up  a view 
of  untold  beauty, -is  indeed  a summer  idyl,  under- 
neath which  one  could  honestly  write  “ satisfied.” 
These  are  also  voyages  of  discovery,  for  in  the 
most  unexpected  places,  at  every  bend,  the  steamer 
halts  at  a private  dock,  to  discharge  one  or  two 
persons  — unmistakably  a part  of  the  family  from 
the  meetings  and  greetings, — and  looking  through 
the  trees,  like  sweet  nests  in  the  shade,  peep  the 
summer  homes.  They  are  plain,  simple  buildings 
of  wood,  mostly  red  in  color,  and  abounding  in  a 
refined  taste  which  might  put  to  shame  more  pre- 
tentious mansions.  It  is  not  a question  of  what 
one  can  find  to  make  a holiday,  but  what  the  vis- 
itor can  best  afford  to  lose. 

Among  the  various  excursions  on  the  Baltic  fiord, 
one  to  the  porcelain  manufactory  at  Gustafsborg 
was  especially  interesting,  not  so  much  from  the 
extent  or  fineness  of  the  works,  which  indicate  the 
enterprise  and  industry  of  the  country,  but  from  the 
quiet  order,  cleanliness,  and  good  breeding  of  the 
employes  in  every  department.  In  all  its  appoint- 
ments of  shops  and  homes,  although  simple  and 


1 14  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

plain,  it  seemed  free  from  any  of  the  disagreeable 
features  of  a manufacturing  town.  We  brought 
away  with  us  a striking  illustration  of  what  all 
travellers  in  Stockholm  and  its  region  note  in  the 
innate  politeness  of  the  people.  As  this  was  near 
the  close  of  our  visit,  curiosity  was  on  the  alert  to 
see  if  we  should  finish  it  without  one  petition  for 
alms ; and  walking  along  the  shaded  road,  when  our 
visit  to  the  factory  was  over,  waiting  for  the  return 
of  the  steamer,  we  saw  a little  hatless  fellow  in  the 
middle  of  the  street,  poorly  or  half  clothed,  who 
looked  at  us  with  an  unmistakable  longing  which 
we  felt  sure  must  find  utterance.  As  an  experiment 
a gentleman  of  the  party  asked  him  a few  questions, 
which  were  answered  with  great  politeness  gratui- 
tously, but  when  our  small  coins  were  as  freely 
given,  the  little  fellow  turned  them  over  in  his  hand, 
raised  himself  very  erectly,  and  putting  his  hand  to 
his  head,  looked  his  hearty  thanks,  and  bowed  with 
the  courtliness  of  a prince. 

Of  parks  and  pleasure  gardens  there  are  many ; 
but  what  the  Bois  is  to  the  Frenchman,  Hyde  Park 
to  the  Englishman,  the  Djurgarden  is  to  the  Swede, 
and  justly  fills  his  heart  with  pride.  Here  is  an  in- 
dented coast  of  twenty  miles  in  circumference,  with 
a crowd  of  embarkations,  and  a flotilla  from  every 


STOCKHOLM . 


IIS 

possible  direction.  It  is  “ a large  piece  of  ground,” 
says  one  distinguished  writer,  “made  into  a garden 
by  our  Lord  Himself.”  You  drive  for  miles  over 
the  well-kept  roads,  through  scenes  of  varying 
pleasure,  catching  here  and  there  a view  of  the 
forest  primeval — grand  oaks,  towering  pines — now 
a view  of  the  turrets  of  the  city,  and  again  through 
the  soft  shadows  the  brilliant  colors  of  the  steam- 
ers. In  these  grounds  are  neither  limitations  nor 
restrictions  — for  it  belongs  to  the  people — and  a 
spot  where  all  can  spend  the  long,  summer  days. 
It  was  a rare  and  comfortable  sight  to  come  upon 
quiet  groups  with  lunch  baskets, — semetimes  feast- 
ing, sometimes  sewing  or  knitting, — and  the  little 
children,  unterrified  by  policemen,  playing  about 
with  as  much  freedom  as  though  every  inch  of 
ground  was  their  own,  as  it  was,  indeed,  their  sum- 
mer home. 

The  flowers  were  not  at  home  here,  and  even  had 
they  been,  the  grounds  were  too  free  for  develop- 
ment, or  at  least  display ; but  the  birds  held  high 
carnival,  unmolested  in  their  reign,  and  we  watched 
with  great  interest,  during  our  farewell  visit  to  this 
attractive  park,  the  extensive  preparations  some 
handsome  squirrels  were  making  for  winter’s  house- 
keeping in  the  hollow  of  an  oak  tree. 


Il6  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

The  plain,  summer  palace  of  Rosendal  (the  vale 
of  roses),  built  by  Bernadotte,  stands  on  a border 
of  this  park,  without  other  barrier  from  the  throng 
of  visitors  than  a simple  wire  fence.  So  far  as 
buildings,  or  conservatories,  or  flower  gardens  are 
concerned,  there  is  nothing  noticeable  in  Rosendal ; 
but  a colossal  porphyry  vase,  modelled  from  the 
Greek  and  made  in  Elf  dal  Dalecarlia,  should  not  be 
overlooked.  The  transporting  of  this  vase  to 
Stockholm  was  a triumphal  procession,  and  another 
illustration  of  the  loyal  Swedish  heart  to  its  own . 
A band  of  music  preceded  a long  train  of  work- 
men, who  followed  it  the  entire  distance  of  two 
hundred  and  seventy  miles,  and  all  along  the  pas- 
sage the  people  assembled  in  holiday  costume,  to 
add  their  cheers ; while  on  its  arrival  at  the  capital 
a prolonged  ovation  was  held  in  honor  of  genius 
and  art.  One  can  not,  however,  pass  and  re-pass 
this  palace  in  the  little  gondolas,  that  land  their 
passengers  on  a dock  hard  by,  without  noticing  on 
the  smooth  waters  the  swans — Sweden’s  chosen  em- 
blem— floating  about  in  front  of  the  building,  with 
their  wonted  grace,  as  guardsmen. 

There  are  towers  and  observatories,  but  the  view, 
and  unrivalled  as  a picture,  is  from  Mosebacke,  the 
hill  of  Moses.  What  the  immortal  Hebrew  poet 


STOCKHOLM. 


II 7 

and  leader  looked  out  upon  from  the  mountain  of 
promise  is  to  us  imaginary,  but  the  spectacle  for 
contemplation  here  is  not  fancy.  The  height  is 
great,  and  in  the  distance  the  undulating  land,  with 
its  heavy  growth  of  pine,  extends  over  the  soil  like 
folds  of  drapery.  On  the  left  the  eye  commands 
the  Malar,  strong  and  immovable,  with  its  border 
of  rocks.  On  the  right  the  Baltic,  gliding  through 
intricacies  as  between  aisles,  cutting  a thousand 
promontories,  and  resting  in  gulfs ; at  our  feet  the 
Malar  and  Baltic  unite,  enclosing  in  their  embrace 
the  city  with  its  seven  islands. 

Like  the  queen  in  the  midst  of  her  court  rises 
the  Palace,  surrounded  by  her  churches,  her  palaces, 
her  quays,  and  forests  of  masts,  which  enfold  her  as 
with  a girdle.  She  does  not  repress  nature,  but 
adorns  herself  with  it ; a picture,  not  of  borrowed 
lights,  but  of  a beauty  born  of  its  own  surround- 
ings, which  would  well  repay  the  lover  of  travel  to 
look  upon  for  himself,  before  he  reaches  the  con- 
clusion to  “ See  Naples  and  die.”  It  was  summer; 
the  theatres  were  closed,  but  one  of  which — “ the 
Royal” — has  any  special  interest.  Gustavus  III. 
erected  this  building,  and  at  a bal  masque  there  met 
his  death  by  a shot,  the  result  of  a conspiracy  of 
his  nobles.  This  theatre  has,  however,  another  and 


1 1 8 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


pleasanter  memory,  as  the  place  where  the  voice  of 
Jenny  Lind  was  first  heard  as  a child  in  the  cho- 
ruses ; and  after,  in  later  years,  as  that  power 
which  commanded  the  world  as  an  audience. 

For  location  this  is  the  Square  of  Palaces,  dedi- 
cated to  Gustavus  Adolphus,  in  the  centre  of  which 
stands  a lofty  pedestal  of  Swedish  marble,  sur- 
mounted by  an  equestrian  statue  of  the  great 
General,  in  bronze,  designed  by  L.  Archeveque. 
On  the  pedestal  in  low  relief  are  the  portraits  of 
Generals  Torstensson,  Wrangel,  Banar,  and  Konigs-- 
marck,  his  companions  and  aids  in  the  great  strug- 
gle for  Protestantism. 

When  evening  comes  it  is  not  a question  of  who- 
soever will — of  the  population  of  170,000  people — 
but  who  can  come  out  into  the  open  air  for  a holi- 
day. At  six  o’clock  the  gardens  are  open,  supper 
is  made  ready,  the  bands  play,  and  families  quietly 
go  out  to  take  their  evening  meal.  There  is,  too, 
a large  choice,  for  within  a mile  of  the  Grand  Hotel 
the  notes  of  invitation  can  be  heard  from  a half- 
dozen  orchestras.  If  one  wants  the  grand  view, 
he  must  go  to  the  Mosebacke ; but  the  greatest 
attraction  is  at  Hasselbacken,  by  the  home  of  Fogel- 
man,  in  the  Djurgarden. 

For  less  than  three  cents  you  can  embark  in  a 


STOCKHOLM. 


II9 

little  steam  gondola,  on  the  Baltic  quay,  glide  un- 
der the  arched  bridges  along  the  Classic  Museum ; 
and  for  an  additional  twenty-six  cents  (a  kronar) 
get  a nice  supper  with  most  fascinating  company, 
hear  fine  music,  and  in  that  delicious  light,  that  lies 
on  the  border  of  a day  just  going  and  another  just 
coming,  feel  content.  We  were  told  that  with  the 
coming  of  summer  all  the  aristocracy,  in  the  ac- 
cepted use  of  the  word  which  belongs  to  society, 
fled.  Nobody  was  at  home.  May  be,  but  if  so 
they  left  behind  them,  in  another  stratum,  a high 
breeding,  which  would  make  a most  extraordinary 
race,  if  these  were  the  common  people. 

The  Swedes  have  not  the  cold  and  severe  man- 
ners generally  found  in  the  North, — far  otherwise. 
Their  cordiality  would  seem  excessive  were  they 
not  so  natural  and  sincere.  A German  writer  says : 
“ The  Swedes  have  preserved  the  old  traditions  of 
European  aristocracy,  dignified  politeness,  and 
chivalrous  hospitality,”  which  we  believed  as  we 
watched  the  meetings  and  greetings  and  partings  of 
the  people,  not  only  in  the  caf6s,  but  in  all  the  Ex- 
changes. 

The  Swedes  are  a blonde  race;  the  men  tall, 
graceful,  erect,  social, — but  never  noisy — an  expres- 
sion bright  and  reflective.  The  women  are  fair, 


120 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


with  clear  blue  eyes,  exquisite  color,  polished  man- 
ners ; while  to  both  sexes  the  inheritance  of  a 
beautiful  mouth  and  teeth,  for  which  they  are  so 
justly  famed. 

As  for  the  nights  in  this  fair  city,  they  are  but 
dim  shadows.  Under  the  warm  tones  of  the  even- 
ing hour  the  sun  goes  slowly  down ; heaven  em- 
braces the  landscape,  but  darkness  does  not  follow. 
The  numerous  gardens  are  everywhere  filled  with 
the  pleasure-loving  people.  The  gay  steamers  with 
their  precious  freight  fly  noiselessly  over  the  Malar 
Sea.  From  each  corner  of  the  city  there  float  on 
the  crystal  atmosphere  the  notes  of  many-tongued 
orchestras. 

“ The  air  is  filled  with  music 

And  the  cares  that  infest  the  day, 

Fold  their  tents  like  the  Arabs, 

And  silently  melt  away.” 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


ENVIRONS  OF  STOCKHOLM. 

So  far  the  travel,  and  consequently  the  literature, 
of  Scandinavia  has  been  largely  devoted  to  Den- 
mark and  Norway.  As  English  tourists  are  pioneers 
of  highways  and  byways,  whether  it  be  northward, 
southward,  eastward,  or  westward,  the  civilized 
world  follows  them  as  a guiding  star. 

Norway  is  a natural  temptation  to  an  English- 
man. She  has  a display  of  mountain  and  valley 
— fiords,  with  infinite  charm,  forests  of  great 
strength,  the  Lofoden  Islands,  the  midnight  sun 
— not  to  be  found  elsewhere,  and  in  delightful 
contrast  with  the  garden  of  his  native  soil.  The 
men  of  England  are  not  in  search  of  history,  as 
found  in  the  Palaces,  Cathedrals,  Mausoleums,  and 
relics  of  other  lands,  for  as  loyal  subjects  the  pages 
of  the  world’s  highest  development,  with  its  chival- 
rous deeds,  are  largely  written  within  their  own 
borders,  in  characters  which  the  natural  growth  of 

this  or  any  age  can  not  easily  dim. 

6 


(121) 


122 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 


Yet  this  is  a land,  and  these  a people,  who  have 
been  more  than  lookers-on  in  the  world’s  progress. 
As  Americans  we  trace  the  first  link  here  between 
our  own  and  another  land  centuries  before  the 
great  discoverer  from  Spain  touched  our  shores. 
Looking  across  history,  a glance  reveals  the  power 
and  conquests  of  these  Norsemen,  which  seems  less 
a romance  and  more  a fact,  standing  in  the  midst  of 
what  is  so  graceful  and  strong  in  nature.  Their 
kings  once  sat  upon  the  throne  of  England ; they 
founded  the  dynasty  which  gave  sovereigns  to  Rus- 
sia for  centuries  ; for  a long  period  France  was  a 
victim  to  their  invasions;  they  held  Constantinople 
in  their  grasp,  and  on  every  coast  of  every  land 
they  were  not  only  the  discoverers  and  victors,  but 
they  also  maintained  their  position  as  lords  and 
rulers.  The  rocky,  barren  coasts  of  Norway,  from 
which  most  of  the  embarkations  of  these  daring 
adventurers  were  made,  bear  no  signs  of  these  he- 
roic men. 

They  have  left  behind  them  a peasant  race,  with- 
out record  anywhere  of  valorous  deeds.  Nature  is 
their  pride,  their  birthright,  and  now,  as  in  all  the 
ages,  stands  unadorned — supreme. 

Crossing  the  border  line  to  Sweden — a part  of 
the  same  family — the  contrast  is  unreconcilable 


ENVIRONS  OF  STOCKHOLM. 


123 


with  any  theory  of  race,  climatic  influence,  habits, 
or  interchange  with  the  world.  The  fact  of  what 
the  men  of  Sweden  have  done,  from  the  earliest 
time,  to  raise  the  State  from  obscurity  and  give  it 
life,  breathes  in  the  air  of  to-day  at  every  turn, 
where  simple  though  touching  evidences  are  to  be 
read,  whether  in  country  or  city,  and  makes  the  sur- 
prise of  the  visit  an  added  pleasure.  Especially  is 
this  true  of  the  shores  of  the  lakes,  which  afford 
over  one  hundred  miles  of  delightful  excursions  in 
the  vicinity  of  Stockholm,  amidst  a countless  vari- 
ety of  waterways,  each  one  of  which  has  an  ob- 
jective point  of  interest.  The  greatest  souvenirs 
of  Swedish  history  line  the  borders  of  the  Malar, 
as  dear  to  the  national  heart  as  Loch  Katrine  is  to 
the  Scots.  The  Malar  is  seventy-five  miles  long, 
dotted  with  1,400  islands  and  thirty  historic  homes, 
some  in  excellent  preservation,  others  a ruin,  but 
each  and  all  rich  in  some  story  intimately  connected 
with  the  past.  Its  situation  is  in  the  heart  and 
cradle  of  the  kingdom,  bounded  by  three  important 
provinces,  Upland,  Sodermanland,  and  Wertman- 
land,  with  its  many  arms  intersecting  the  country 
in  all  directions ; its  islands  of  infinite  beauty  and 
variety,  some  of  which  are  adorned  with  pleasant 
villas,  others  so  remote  as  to  represent  absolute  sol- 


124 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


itude,  where  months  instead  of  days  could  be  de- 
lightfully spent.  Even  the  sportsman,  accustomed 
to  the  resources  of  Norway,  might  not  wholly  ig- 
nore the  facilities  of  distant  parts  of  this  lake, 
where  game  and  good  fishing  are  found  in  abun- 
dance. 

Most  of  the  royal  homes  for  summer  are  reflected 
from  the  waters  of  the  Malar,  the  stateliest  of 
which  is  at  Drottningholm,  the  favorite  abode  of 
the  present  sovereign.  The  situation  is  indeed  po- 
etic, on  one  of  the  small  islands  of  this  lake,  called 
Lofon.  It  is  only  seven  miles  from  the  capital  by 
highway, — a charming  drive,  full  of  interest.  A 
bit  of  wood  here,  and  a bridge  there  (which  one  is 
constantly  crossing),  makes  a pleasant  excursion 
in  itself, — although  the  little  steamers,  which  seem 
infinite,  go  every  hour  for  the  enormous  sum,  per 
trip,  of  thirteen  cents  (half  a krona). 

This  is  another  creation  of  their  beloved  archi- 
tect, Count  Tessin,  and  one  of  the  few  buildings 
throughout  the  entire  kingdom  which  would  bear 
any  comparison  with  the  stately  abodes  of  Europe. 
It  had  its  birth  in  the  last  part  of  the  sixteenth  cen- 
tury, although  the  sovereigns  of  later  years  have 
crowned  it  with  their  offerings  of  taste  and  money, 
to  make  it  the  modern  home  and  worthy  the  kings. 


' ENVIRONS  OF  STOCKHOLM. 


125 


Inside,  the  State  departments  were  worth  the  visit, 
but  we  were  more  pleased  with  an  additional  proof 
here  of  the  artistic  taste  which  distinguishes  King 
Oscar  II.  His  paintings  were  finer  than  those  to 
be  seen  in  the  palace  at  Stockholm ; and  the  ar- 
rangement of  a long  suite  of  rooms,  to  which  he 
had  given  his  best  thought,  was  a fine  exhibition  of 
taste,  refinement,  and  comfort.  One  sees  the  same 
thought  of  domestic  life  running  through  every 
home  in  the  North,  whether  in  palace  or  cottage, 
that  preparation  which  is  born  of  the  long  winter. 
But  we  had  seen  palaces,  and  many  of  them,  in 
richer  lands  than  this.  Novelties  were  not  inside 
the  walls,  but  outside.  Here,  again,  the  visitor  is 
staggered  by  the  question,  ‘ What  is  climate  ? ” — as 
he  steps  out  from  castle  gates  and  walks  under  the 
gothic  arches  of  long  avenues  of  lindens  and  elms. 
It  is  a latitude  far  to  the  North,  and  there  is  no 
Gulf  Stream  with  which  to  reckon ; but  cultivation 
has  made  these  trees  as  grand  in  size,  as  rich  in 
beauty  and  form,  as  the  stately  shades  of  Hampton 
Court. 

Gustavus  III.,  the  sovereign  so  devoted  to  French 
taste,  formed  a unique  and  charming  structure  of 
clipped  trees,  which  he  named  a theatre  du  ver- 
dure, used  as  the  scene  of  his  French  plays;  and 


126 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


although  the  love  he  once  commanded  from  his 
subjects,  by  years  of  faithful  service,  ended  in  his 
assassination, — the  result  of  his  own  folly,  nearly 
a century  ago, — here  was  a little  spot  where  his 
memory  was  kept  fresh ; but  whether  from  love  of 
the  dead  monarch’s  virtues,  or  pity  for  his  follies, 
or  an  unwillingness  to  destroy  a pretty  creation  of 
art,  was  not  our  business  to  question.  This  mag- 
nificent park  covers  many  acres,  full  of  delightful 
walks,  shades,  ponds ; and  the  people  have,  as  on 
every  foot  of  soil  wherever  found  in  adjacent  parks, 
free  access  to  all  the  comforts  and  pleasures  they 
afford.  The  French  taste  is  conspicuous  here,  an 
element  scarcely  foreign  in  Sweden ; however,  a 
Chinese  pagoda,  in  fact  a small  museum  of  curios- 
ities from  the  land  of  the  Celestials,  a Swiss  cot- 
tage, bronzes  in  classic  forms,  are  continual  proofs, 
in  strolling  through  the  grounds,  that  here  are  the 
acres  for  a display  of  the  favorite  tastes  of  the  kings 
and  queens  of  modern  times. 

While  this  was  the  one  spot,  above  all  others,  in 
the  three  kingdoms  which  had  the  appearance  of 
court  dignity,  yet  we  were  told,  during  the  summer- 
time, that  life  was  perfectly  informal  with  the  royal 
family ; that  all  ceremony  and  etiquette  was  aban- 
doned at  their  largest  receptions.  But  a little  way 


ENVIRONS  OF  STOCKHOLM. 


127 


from  this  palace,  on  another  island  of  the  same  blue 
waters,  is  a spot  dear  to  the  Swedish  heart,  known 
as  the  favorite  retreat  of  Gustavus  Adolphus  and 
his  generals,  where  most  of  his  brilliant  campaigns 
were  discussed  and  matured.  It  is  a large,  sombre- 
looking  place,  bearing  much  evidence  of  neglect. 
Gustavus  Wasa,  who  lived  many  years  to  enjoy  the 
triumphs  of  his  glorious  achievements,  built  a fine 
palace  here,  which,  after  its  use  as  a stronghold 
passed  away,  became  the  dowager  residence  of  sev- 
eral Swedish  queens,  and  at  present  looks  as  though 
“ its  occupation  was  over.”  After  the  fatal  event 
at  Lutzen  the  loyal  heart  of  Sweden  crowned  this 
park  with  a fine  marble  group  of  the  hero,  with  his 
faithful  Oxenstierna ; but  the  hand  of  time,  and  espec- 
ially the  touch  of  vandalism,  have  spoiled  its  beauty. 

Passing  on  to  other  islands,  the  charming  palace 
of  Rosenborg  appears,  which,  in  its  unmistakable 
French  style,  is  in  sharp  as  well  as  pleasing  con- 
trast to  some  of  the  dull  effects  which  surround  it. 
There  is  something  captivating  in  the  park,  and  the 
sylvan,  warm  aspect  of  the  scenery ; so  the  fact 
that  this  was  the  home  of  Bernadotte  is  in  part  an 
explanation.  The  French  king  must  have  found 
little  enough  in  this  poor  land  to  meet  the  wants 
of  those  luxuries  in  taste  and  climate  to  which 


128 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


he  was  born,  which  makes  this  small  but  handsome 
palace,  decorated  and  furnished  in  a faultless 
style,  the  more  noticeable  because  seen  on  uncon- 
genial soil. 

There  are  twelve  royal  abodes  (in  name)  which 
belong  to  the  Swedish  crown,  but  at  this  moment 
the  most  poetical  spot  is  Ulriksdal,  the  place  of 
pilgrimage,  as  it  was  loved  and  adorned  and  beau- 
tified by  the  late  King  Charles  XV.  It  is  almost 
within  the  city’s  arms,  which  you  can  reach  by  land 
or  water.  The  drive  is  delightful,  and  takes  you 
through  the  parks  of  the  two  small  palaces,  Haga 
and  Java  ; thence  through  long  avenues  of  trees, 
between  pretty  villas,  until  you  reach  the  palace ; 
while  by  water  you  take  the  steam  gondola  at  the 
foot  of  the  stairs  at  the  museum,  proceed  along  the 
Djurgarden  park,  the  Rosendal  palace,  pass  a float- 
ing bridge  along  the  shore  of  the  camping-ground, 
catch  views  of  the  fine  shades  in  Haga  park,  and 
land  at  the  foot  of  the  palace  grounds.  The  build- 
ing is  unpretentious,  occupying  three  sides  of  a 
square,  but  delightfully  situated  on  the  bay,  Which 
has  a pretty  slope  to  the  water’s  edge.  Our  visit 
was  during  the  blossoming  season  of  the  lindens, 
which  made  the  air  so  heavy  with  perfume  as  to 
suggest  the  voluptuous  South. 


ENVIRONS  OF  STOCKHOLM. 


129 


When  Bernadotte  assumed  the  responsibilities  of 
government,  necessity  was  law,  and  as  results  in  his 
administration  proved,  economy  was  the  virtue 
which  helped  largely  to  win  the  hearts  of  his  peo- 
ple. This  palace  he  thought  was  a superfluity,  and 
therefore  directed  that  it  should  be  used  as  a hotel 
des  invalides.  A more  prosperous  era  dawned  upon 
the  State  ; the  work  of  the  noble  King  Bernadotte 
was  over,  when  his  grandson,  Charles  XV. — still 
quite  a youth — set  the  seal  of  his  love  upon  this 
spot  as  his  home,  a legacy  to  his  subjects  which 
they  hold  in  sacred  remembrance.  The  king  was  an 
artist,  and  far  happier,  it  is  said,  in  the  quiet  pursuit 
of  his  tastes  than  when  called  to  assume  the  responsi- 
bilities of  State.  He  called  himself  a farmer  before 
he  was  a king,  and  arranged  his  home  after  the 
fashion  of  an  Englishman’s  country-seat,  rather 
than  as  a museum,  the  only  room  of  historical 
value  being  a sleeping  apartment,  containing  the 
bedstead  used  by  Gustavus  Adolphus  during  his 
campaigns,  with  the  rest  of  the  furniture  in  har- 
mony. 

We  were  told  some  charming  stories  of  the  ex- 
treme simplicity  of  this  so-called  gentleman  king, 
which  harmonized  well  with  the  refined,  peaceful 
surroundings  of  the  place ; and  that  he  had  the 
6* 


130 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


rare  gift  of  maintaining  his  royal  power,  while  at 
the  same  time  he  was  obedient  to  the  demands  of  the 
humblest  subject,  breathes  in  every  record  he  has 
left  behind. 

There  was  an  entire  absence  of  retainers  about 
the  premises — simply  as  showmen ; those  we  saw 
were  at  work,  and  in  this  fact  there  was  the  contin- 
uation of  the  king’s  habit  of  open  doors  at  Ul- 
riksdal.  Among  the  interesting  anecdotes  told  us 
in  proof  of  the  freedom  of  this  home,  was  the  visit 
of  an  English  party,  who  for  once  turned  aside 
from  the  accustomed  habit  of  travel  in  foreign 
lands  to  gather  some  things  from  within  doors,  but 
most  of  all  to  see  this  Swedish  king,  famous  alike 
for  manly  beauty  and  great  accomplishments. 
Reaching  Ulriksdal  one  fine  summer  day,  armed 
and  equipped  with  letters  which  were  sure  to  open 
any  castle  gates,  they  found  the  wide  doors  of 
the  baronial  hall  open  from  park  to  bay,  without  a 
single  official  in  sight.  This  was  certainly  an  unex- 
pected position  for  gentlemen  of  that  nationality, 
and  for  the  moment  threatened  defeat ; but  walking 
about  the  grounds,  making  such  inquiries  as  were 
at  their  command,  they  observed  a tall  gentleman 
near  the  entrance,  with  a slouch  hat,  smoking,  en- 
joying the  scene  with  calm  intelligence,  to  whom 


ENVIRONS  OF  STOCKHOLM. 


131 

they  made  known  their  errand  and  their  embarrass- 
ment. The  inquiry  of  whether  they  could  be  for- 
mally presented  to  the  king  was  waived,  but  the  gen- 
tleman, with  silent  dignity,  offered  them  all  the 
opportunity  of  sight-seeing  the  place  contained, 
even  to  an  introduction  to  the  king’s  studio,  which 
to  them  was  sacred  ground.  Of  course  there  was 
embarrassment  in  departing,  over  a proper  acknowl- 
edgment of  their  hospitalities,  as  these  noblemen 
very  well  understood  their  host  was  not  an  ordinary 
exhibitor,  and  with  their  hearty  thanks  asked,  with 
some  reserve,  to  whom  they  were  indebted  for  the 
pleasures  of  the  morning,  which  was  promptly  an- 
swered by  this  distinguished  sovereign,  as,  with  an 
air  belonging  to  his  station,  he  said,  to  Charles  XV., 
King  of  Norway  and  Sweden,  at  the  same  time  bow- 
ing them  a polite  adieu. 

This  singular  disregard  of  ostentation  or  homage 
as  a king  made  him  greatly  beloved  by  the  humbler 
classes,  whom  he  called  his  friends,  and  it  is  not 
strange  that  his  portrait  hangs  on  many  a cottage 
wall  as  a shrine,  of  whom  they  reverently  speak  as 
“ the  good  King  Carl.” 

Gripsholm  is  the  noblest  and  most  historic  of  all 
the  royal  abodes,  which  the  Englishman,  who  car- 
ries the  national  measure  of  everything  with  him 


I32 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


from  the  cradle  to  the  grave,  calls  the  Windsor  of 
Sweden.  A visit  to  this  castle  requires  a sail  of  six 
hours,  as  it  stands  on  the  southern  shore  of  the 
Malar,  but  as  it  is  the  pantheon  of  the  noble  family 
of  Wasa  and  their  contemporaries,  the  opportunity 
offered  here  is  not  to  be  found  elsewhere  in  the 
realm,  as  it  is  by  far  the  richest  of  all  the  royal 
abodes,  both  in  historic  memories  and  valuable  col- 
lections. 

This  venerable  castle  introduces  one  of  the  no- 
table characters  in  the  history  of  the  country,  and 
proves  that  money  was  king  in  the  early  part  of  the 
14th  century  as  well  as  in  modern  times.  Bo  Jour- 
son  Grip  is  not  a euphonious  name,  but,  as  the 
story  goes,  his  ducats  were  pleasing  in  court,  or 
within  castle  walls.  The  inventory  of  his  posses- 
sions is  fabulous,  and  puts  the  bank  accounts  of 
the  money  princes  of  to-day  in  the  shade,  as  his 
exchequer  held  castles,  provinces,  towns,  mines,  and 
an  amount  of  acres  never  equalled  by  any  private 
man  in  Europe.  Finland  was  his,  also  a large  part 
of  Sweden,  with  its  strongholds,  held  in  security 
for  the  immense  sums  of  money  advanced  to  King 
Albert,  in  carrying  on  the  extensive  wars  of  the 
realm.  The  sequel  proved,  however,  in  his  own 
life,  “ that  too  much  of  a good  thing  was  too  much.” 


ENVIRONS  OF  STOCKHOLM. 


133 


There  was  no  limit  to  his  individual  will  or  power ; 
law  and  honor  was  his  creed  for  the  people,  his  de- 
pendents, not  for  himself,  as  in  him,  and  by  him, 
and  through  him  rested  (or  at  least  should  rest)  the 
hopes  and  fears  of  the  entire  State.  The  reign  of 
this  all-powerful  co-regent  of  King  Albert  was  in 
the  days  of  Romish  despotism,  and  where  the  State 
failed  in  authority,  the  Church  was  not  to  be  ques- 
tioned. His  violent  and  gross  sins  were  not  un- 
noticed or  unreproved  by  Papal  authority,  and  large 
sums  of  money  were  quietly  received  as  palliations, 
which  seemed  in  the  end  rather  to  strengthen  than 
restrain  his  passions.  At  length,  in  pursuit  of  an  inno- 
cent victim  of  his  hate,  overcome  by  rage,  he  entered 
the  sacred  doors  of  Riddarsholm  Church,  and  forget- 
ful of  the  sanctity  of  the  place,  rushed  to  the  high  al- 
tar, which  was  supposed  by  the  young  man  to  be  a 
safe  refuge,  and  took  his  life.  Much  to  the  edifica- 
tion of  the  people  throughout  the  realm,  a ban  was 
pronounced  over  the  great  Bo  Jourson  Grip,  which 
could  not  be  resisted.  Pardon  was  only  won  by 
submission  to  law,  with  large  sums- of  money,  fixed 
by  the  reigning  Cardinal  in  proportion  to  the  vast 
fortune  of  the  criminal,  to  be  paid  for  the  two  Uni- 
versities, every  college,  every  parish  and  priest 
throughout  the  realm  where  he  held  estates. 


134 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


On  the  death  of  this  remarkable  personage  the 
reigning  monarch,  King  Albert,  demanded  from  his 
heirs  restitution  of  the  Crown  property,  but  at  the 
same  time  refused  to  discharge  the  liens  upon  it ; 
which  unjust  request  caused  a civil  war,  the  deposi- 
tion of  the  king,  and  proved  the  immediate  cause 
of  the  union  of  Calmar.  This  moneyed  autocrat 
was  the  founder  of  Gripsholm,  and  although,  after 
many  vicissitudes,  it  came  into  the  hands  of  the 
Wasas,  it  still  bears  the  name  of  the  man  who 
planned  originally  a fortress  for  personal  safety. 

It  is  a grand  old  pile,  rich  in  memories,  and  a 
striking  picture  from  the  approach  by  Lake  Malar. 
In  the  early  days  it  offered  a shelter  to  Sten  Sture, 
regent  of  the  kingdom,  but  to  Wasa  I.  the  honor 
belongs  of  the  present  building,  with  its  four 
towers,  each  bearing  the  name  of  one  of  his  sons, 
although  it  came  unto  its  present  state  of  perfection 
in  the  days  of  Gustavus  III. 

This  is,  indeed,  an  old  baronial  castle,  pentagonal 
in  shape,  enclosing  two  courts,  with  many  features 
of  a mediaeval  stronghold.  Within,  on  palace  walls, 
are  hung  a collection  of  pictures,  which  not  only 
bridges  space,  but  brings  a large  reward  to  the  vis- 
itor for  his  pilgrimage.  These  can  hardly  be  ex- 
celled in  any  of  the  courtly  halls  of  Europe,  as 


ENVIRONS  OF  STOCKHOLM . 


135 


there  are  2,000  portraits  in  the  entire  collection,  ar- 
ranged according  to  the  reigning  dynasties,  the  first 
of  which  belongs  to  Gustavus  Erickson,  the  father 
of  the  great  line  of  kings.  There  are  several  repre- 
sentations of  this  hero,  taken  at  different  periods  of 
his  long,  successful  reign  of  nearly  forty  years  ; and 
surrounding  him  the  canvas  glows  with  the  con- 
temporaries of  his  time,  illustrious  names  of  kings, 
queens,  ministers  of  state,  cardinals  in  the  church, 
men  and  women  who,  at  that  period,  made  civil 
and  ecclesiastical  history. 

Passing  hurriedly  through  various  halls  one  must 
recognize  a familiar  atmosphere  in  the  celebrities  of 
the  period  of  Gustavus  III.,  to  whom  one  of  the 
halls  is  dedicated.  These  portraits  are  largely  gifts 
from  the  French  court,  who  recognized  a sort  of 
kinship  to  this  monarch,  and  paid  him  marked  dis- 
tinction. The  flower  of  this  collection  is  a beauti- 
ful likeness  of  Marie  Antoinette,  between  whom 
and  Gustavus  III.  there  existed  a sincere  friendship, 
as  shown  by  several  letters  from  this  unfortunate 
queen,  in  the  Gustavean  collection  at  Upsala. 
England  lights  up  these  gray  old  walls  with  such 
renowned  names  as  Henry  VIII.,  Elizabeth,  Mary 
Stuart,  and  the  Georges.  Prussia  looks  down  upon 
the  visitor  through  its  honored  sovereign,  Frederick 


136  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

II.  Joseph  of  Austria  and  Charles  of  Spain  adorn 
these  walls  far  to  the  north  ; and  not  to  be  passed 
unnoticed,  the  seventy  ministers  of  the  peace  of 
Westphalia,  which  closed  the  Thirty  Years’  War. 

The  gem  of  all  these  palace  walls  have  to  offer, 
and  one  which  will  arrest  the  steps  of  the  visitor 
longest,  is  the  group  which  surrounds  Gustavus 
Adolphus,  his  chancellor  Oxenstierna,  with  their 
associates  in  war  as  well  as  in  state.  In  close  prox- 
imity, also,  is  the  sweet  face  of  Ebba  Brahe,  the 
early  love  of  Adolphus — a love  returned — but  alas  ! 
when  was  the  story  of  a mother’s  management 
new  ? When  will  it  be  old  ? This  is*  indeed,  an 
honored  abode  to  which  Sweden  may  well  point 
with  pride,  and  although  the  faithful  historian 
would  have  many  sad  pages  to  write  of  the  dark 
deeds  these  walls  have  witnessed,  yet  it  was  the 
home  of  that  sovereign  who  gave  freedom  to 
his  people,  and  after  that  religious  liberty,  therefore 
call  it  “hallowed  ground.”  To  make  one  of  the 
crowning  deeds  of  this  monarch  consecrated,  or 
rather  to  bring  it  as  a fact  with  more  force  to  the 
mind,  you  look  across  from  these  castle  walls  to  the 
small  island  of  Bjorko,  an  important  port  in  the 
Pagan  era,  but  of  commemorative  value  as  the  spot 
where  the  Monk  Ansgarius  proclaimed  the  first 
notes  of  Christianity  to  the  Swedes. 


ENVIRONS  OF  STOCKHOLM. 


3 7 


Still  sailing  over  the  blue  waters  of  the  Malar 
emerging  from  the  green  of  the  landscape,  the 
chateau  of  Skokloster  appears  with  its  four  towers 
enclosing  a perfect  square,  and  judging  from  its  ex- 
terior, a dwelling  fit  for  a prince.  The  situation  is 
indeed  commanding — on  a high  bank,  which  con- 
trols not  only  the  varied  views  of  the  lake,  but  also 
a wide  reach  of  the  country  around.  This  is  a spot 
especially  sacred  to  the  memory  of  the  great  Gus- 
tavus,  as  it  was  originally  his  gift  to  Thorman 
Wrangel,  the  field  marshal,  whose  son,  Charles 
Gustavus,  was  one  of  the  renowned  generals  of  this 
heroic  man  who  built  Skokloster  as  seen  to-day. 

This  is  called,  and  justly,  the  finest  private  home 
in  Sweden, — superb  in  size,  in  style,  in  finish,  and 
decoration.  The  great  achievements  of  Commander 
Wrangel  were  made  after  the  death  of  his  king,  so 
that  when  the  apparently  endless  conflict  was  over 
this  was  a natural  as  well  as  beautiful  asylum  for 
rest  from  the  dangers  and  struggles  of  thirty  years 
on  the  field  of  battle,  so  enriched  by  many  trophies 
from  Germany,  with  which  he  made  his  home  a liv- 
ing history,  he  laid  aside  his  weapons  of  war,  hung 
up  his  banners,  and  rested. 

The  only  child  of  the  admiral  was  a daughter, 
who  married  a Brahe,  and  hence  this  beautiful  es- 


I38  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

tate  fell  into  the  hands  of  that  illustrious  family, 
where  it  still  belongs.  This  is  the  richest  of  all  the 
modern  homes  in  the  State  ; a fine  collection  of  pic- 
tures, second  only  to  the  gallery  at  Gripsholm,  and 
like  that  contains  the  portrait  of  Ebba  Brahe,  the 
beloved  of  the  great  sovereign.  Count  Brahe,  the 
son-in-law  of  Wrangel,  filled  it  with  treasures,  cap- 
tured during  the  long  war,  of  great  historical  value. 
The  library  of  30,000  volumes  is  a choice  selection, 
and  the  cabinets  rich  in  story.  The  armory  is  es- 
pecially fine,  with  12,000  firearms  of  all  descriptions  ; 
swords,  sabres,  and  poignards,  incrusted  with  gold 
and  precious  stones,  of  historical  value ; the  shield 
of  Emperor  Charles  V.,  taken  at  Prague,  one  of  the 
finest  works  of  Benvenuto  Cellini ; also  the  behead- 
ing sword  used  at  the  blood  bath  of  Linkoping. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


UPSALA. 

OUR  plan  on  arriving  at  Stockholm  was  to  push 
on  to  the  Baltic,  but  the  fascination  grew,  holding 
us  so  fast,  that  day  by  day  we  lingered  over  the 
pleasures  that  were  at  hand,  before  we  willingly  left 
the  capital  for  the  university  town — called  the  Ox- 
ford of  the  kingdom ; the  one  situated  at  the  en- 
trance, the  other  at  the  bottom  of  the  most  shel- 
tered bend  of  the  renowned  Malar. 

It  was  undoubtedly  an  accommodation  steamer 
upon  which  we  had  embarked  for  this  enterprise, 
as  we  made  more  stops  than  we  travelled  miles ; 
but  what  matter,  the  deck  of  the  boat  was  comfort- 
able with  easy-chairs ; we  had  good  company ; we 
were  environed  by  the  light  and  air  of  Stockholm, 
and  existence  was  a pleasure.  The  scenery  is  a 
little  tame  for  the  first  miles ; but  interest  is  kept 
alive  by  the  sight  of  pretty  chateaux,  the  retreats 
of  famous  generals  of  the  Thirty  Years’  War — one 
of  Torstenson,  another  of  Oxenstierna — which 

(139) 


140 


A SUMMER  IN  SCAN  DIN  A VIA. 


looked  as  though  rest  after  the  long  battle  could  be 
found  there.  We  salute  also  in  passing  a mass  of 
ruins,  which  was  once  the  capital  of  Sigtuna,  the 
name  of  which  city  often  resounds  in  the  epic  tales 
of  ancient  Sweden.  Here,  according  to  legend,  the 
hero-god  Odin,  terrible  in  fight  and  persuasive  in 
tongue,  built  his  first  city,  which  lived  through  cen- 
turies of  pagan  rule. 

Temples  were  erected  and  sacrifices  were  offered 
upon  this  foundation  in  the  nth  century,  where  he 
had  an  unmolested  reign  as  conqueror,  law-giver, 
priest,  and  king.  The  vicissitudes  of  spoils  and 
restoration  followed  Sigtuna,  but  the  Prussians  to- 
tally destroyed  it,  carrying  away  as  a single  trophy 
the  silver  gates,  which  were  placed  under  a Byzan- 
tine cupola  at  Novgorod.  The  founding  of  Stock- 
holm by  the  powerful  Earl  Birger  Jarl,  was  the  final 
ruin  of  Sigtuna. 

The  scenery  grows  fascinating  as  we  pass  gay 
gardens  and  green  meadows,  timbered  parks  and 
sloping  lawns,  brown  rocks  and  noble  trees,  channel 
after  channel  opening  to  view,  island  after  island 
fading  awSy,  tiny  skiffs  shooting  between  islets,  and 
deeply  laden  vessels  creeping  lazily  along  in  the 
still  air.  We  pass  pretty  villas  of  to-day,  crumbling 
ruins  of  the  bygone  years,  neighborhoods  of  snug 


UPSALA. 


141 

homes  on  the  banks,  and  are  told  that  certain  local-, 
ities  were  once  the  starting-point  of  the  expeditions 
of  the  Vikings. 

In  the  meantime  the  steep  banks  are  growing 
nearer  each  other,  and  the  lake  becomes  a rivulet,  in 
some  places  hardly  that,  so  sluggish  is  the  water, 
scarcely  more  than  a flooded  meadow.  The  rivulet 
forms  a bay;  the  banks  are  more  fertile.  We  see 
the  hills  of  Upsala,  the  massive  outlines  of  castle 
and  cathedral,  and  the  university  rises  to  view,  half 
palace,  half  barracks,  upon  a prominent  height 
without  shade,  bleak  and  bare.  Two  quays  stretched 
out  on  either  side  of  our  steamer,  which  suddenly 
stopped,  and  we  stepped  out  upon  the  cobble-stone 
streets  of  Upsala,  as  clean  as  they  were  rough. 

It  seemed  the  abode  of  peaceful  studies,  and  as 
a favorable  introduction  our  first  homage  was  to 
Linnaeus.  A little  temple  is  dedicated  to  his  mem- 
ory in  a corner  of  the  Botanical  Gardens,  where 
Bystrom,  in  an  excellent  statue  of  bronze,  has  rep- 
resented him  as  lecturing  upon  his  favorite  flower, 
and  a pleasing  incident  connected  with  this  monu- 
ment is  preserved  to  the  credit  of  Gustavus  III. 
This  was  to  be  the  gift  of  a few  special  admirers, 
for  which  the  money  was  so  quietly  raised  that, 
when  the  king,  unasked,  brought  his  royal  offering, 


142 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


it  was  received  by  the  projector  of  the  plan  with 
hesitation,  and  with  this  explanation  : that  the  pro- 
posed inscription  was,  that  this  monument  was  to 
be  erected  only  by  friends  and  disciples , to  which 
Gustavus  answered : “ And  am  I not  also  one  of  Lin- 
naeus’ disciples?”  That  we  were  walking  over  the 
same  ground,  and  standing  under  the  same  fine 
shades,  where  for  twenty  years  the  great  botanist 
was  engaged  in  the  contemplation  and  analysis  of 
a blade  of  grass,  made  his  name  and  work  a liv- 
ing reality,  and  a story  we  had  read  of  his  inherit- 
ance anything  but  a romance.  The  father  of  Lin- 
naeus not  only  showed  a great  love  for  botany,  but 
his  mother  also.  So  deep  and  earnest  was  her  love 
of  flowers  that  when  she  saw  them  cut  off  by  the 
October  frosts,  she  sank  into  a kind  of  melancholy, 
from  which  she  was  only  diverted  by  the  first  spring 
blossoms.  Carl,  her  beloved  son,  was  born  early 
in  June,  cradled  in  his  mother’s  garden,  and  had 
only  flowers  for  his  toys.  If  this  be  true, — and  to 
use  his  own  language,  “ he  was  transferred  from  a 
cradle  to  a garden,” — the  law  of  heredity  was  his 
master,  and  so  strong,  as  the  pretty  story  runs,  as  to 
make  him  fall  down  on  his  knees  and  thank  God. 
When  he  first  caught  sight  of  a common  in  Eng- 
land, blazing  with  the  burnished  gold  of  the  furze, 


UPSALA. 


143 


— a spectacle  of  beauty  astonishing  and  complete, — 
it  was  in  vain  for  him  to  work  at  anything  else. 

The  Church  was  his  destination.  So  said  the 
father ; and  to  make  suitable  preparation  for  that 
office,  he  was  placed  at  the  university  at  Lund, 
but  to  no  purpose.  A higher  destiny  awaited  him 
as  the  founder  of  a beautiful  science,  the  rudiments 
of  which  he  worked  out  alone  with  Nature.  It 
was  pleasant  to  visit  the  spot  where  success,  at 
the  early  age  of  thirty-three  years,  crowned  those 
labors  which  have  blessed  every  land.  Sweden, 
through  her  university  at  Upsala,  appointed  him 
professor  in  the  vigor  of  his  years,  placing  him  above 
all  want,  with  leisure  to  pursue  his  studies  later  in 
life,  crowning  him  with  knighthood,  and  in  a charm- 
ing home  spent  his  advancing  years  surrounded 
by  all  the  resources  which  had  been  the  accumu- 
lation of  a sincere,  pure,  industrious  life,  and  where 
his  days  were  supremely  blessed  by  eager  students, 
young  and  old,  from  his  own  and  other  lands,  curi- 
ous and  eager  to  know  the  man  “ who  had  arranged 
nature.” 

Upsala  is  more  than  a university  town.  It  is  the 
ecclesiastical  capital  of  the  State,  where  for  many 
years  kings  were  crowned  long  after  the  royal  resi- 
dence was  moved  to  Stockholm;  and,  like  Trond- 


144 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 


hjem  of  Norway,  Upsala  is  the  historical  and  intel- 
lectual centre  of  the  Swedish  Empire.  The  gov- 
ernor of  the  shire  is  stationed  here ; also  the  arch- 
bishop of  the  realm,  who  is  the  primate  of  all 
Sweden.  It  is  saying  but  little  to  speak  of  the 
cathedral  as  the  chief  attraction  from  an  exterior 
view,  and  comparatively  nothing  from  an  artistic 
stand-point, — built  of  brick,  and  of  a very  ugly  sort, 
with  stone  portals  in  the  gothic  style,  with  walls, 
windows,  gables,  doors,  and  roof  plain  to  severity. 
This  ecclesiastical  pile  had  a beginning  in  the 
thirteenth  century,  and  probably  when  finished, 
many  years  later,  looked  much  better  than  now. 
The  plan  for  rebuilding  met  with  many  changes, 
out  of  harmony  with  any  order  of  architecture,  in 
consequence  of  repeated  fires,  which  everywhere  in 
Scandinavia  have  made  great  havoc.  Within,  the 
proportions  are  fine,  and  in  outline  will  bear  crit- 
icism ; but  the  arches  are  poor  enough  without 
their  proper  dress  of  ornament ; the  chapels  and 
aisles  looked  cheated  out  of  proper  vestments ; on 
the  windows  none  of  the  ecclesiastical  thought  or 
history  is  written  in  beautiful  color,  which  is  such 
an  attractive  feature  of  those  noble  monuments  of 
the  Church ; and  the  walls  so  poor  and  cold  as  to 
cast  a gloom  throughout  the  building. 


UPSALA. 


145 


Evidently  Sweden  never  had  the  ducats  to  make 
a fine  cathedral,  or  at  least,  before  she  was  liberated 
from  the  bondage  of  debt,  she  became  a Protestant 
people, — more  in  harmony  with  the  free  pulse  to 
which  she  was  born.  A little  flight  of  stairs  leads 
to  a vaulted  chamber,  out  of  the  damp  and  cold, 
where  the  crowns  and  sceptres  of  the  monarchs  of 
the  early  time  are  hidden  away  under  lock  and  key, 
curious  only  to  the  visitor  of  to-day  as  illustrating 
how  sacredly  this  people  treasure  every  incident 
connected  with  their  national  history.  Leaving 
this  sacristy  of  gold  and  silver  from  the  dead — and 
which  our  exhibitor  considered  especially  valu- 
able as  containing  the  blood-covered  clothes,  the 
knight’s  hat  of  Neils  Sture,  cruelly  beheaded  in 
the  savage  reign  of  Eric  XIV. — we  wandered  about 
the  chapels  and  church  aisles  to  see  if  this  visit 
would  be  fruitless. 

At  every  turn  of  the  journey  through  Sweden, — 
whether  in  town  or  country,  on  the  lakes  or  in  the 
forests, — the  story  of  the  gallant,  patriotic,  chival- 
rous, self-sacrificing  deeds  of  Gustavus  Wasa,  and 
his  grandson,  the  immortal  Adolphus,  are  written  ; 
and  unconsciously  one  becomes  a student  in  search 
of  those  records  which  give  to  a living  history 
such  value.  Therefore  it  was  we  found  a visit  to 
7 


146  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 

this  cathedral  not  an  idle  pilgrimage,  as  it  holds 
the  remains  of  Gustavus  Wasa,  from  which  no  pa- 
triot of  any  land  could  turn  away  with  indifference. 
It  is  a large  burial  chapel  behind  the  altar,  with  a 
fine  window  of  stained  glass ; and  surrounding  the 
walls,  in  seven  different  compartments,  are  as  many 
frescoes,  illustrating  leading  events  in  his  patriotic 
life.  It  was  a novel  picture,  this  solid  bronze  of 
the  dead  monarch,  draped  as  it  were  by  illustrated 
pages  of  his  life ; and  although  the  art  was  not  of 
high  talent,  the  thought  that  placed  them  there  was 
worthy  the  most  profound  homage. 

And  what  did  they  tell  us?  What  made  the 
name  and  fame  of  this  man  far-reaching?  That 
he  was  the  liberator  of  his  beloved  country  from 
the  yoke  of  Denmark  could  be  seen  in  this  splendid 
history  in  epitome,  and  how  it  was  done  also.  His 
disguise  as  a Dalecarlian  peasant ; his  plea  with 
them ; his  battle  between  the  Dalecarlians  and 
Danes  ; and  after  all  his  years  of  struggle  ; his  nar- 
row escapes  from  the  thirst  for  his  blood  by  his 
enemies,  comes  the  picture  of  his  triumphal  entry 
into  Stockholm  as  conqueror  and  king,  the  crown 
of  which  is  to  be  seen  in  the  presentation  of  the 
Bible  to  his  subjects  as  a last  and  final  victory. 

We  must  not  pass  unnoticed  any  of  the  marbles 


UPS  A LA. 


147 


on  which  are  engraved  the  names  of  those  men 
great  in  war  under  the  princely  king  Gustavus 
Adolphus,  or  fail  to  read  on  a fine  mural  tablet  of 
red  porphyry  (under  the  nave),  with  a bronze  por- 
trait by  Sergei,  the  name  of  Linnaeus.  Tis  a 
gloomy  vault  under  which  they  rest,  but  there  is 
royal  company  around,  in  the  names  of  such  illus- 
trious families  as  Sture,  Brahe,  Oxenstierna,  and 
De  Geer. 

Sten  Sture,  the  beloved  administrator,  founded 
the  University  at  Upsala  in  1477,  but  what  it  is  at 
the  present  moment  is  due  to  the  plan,  and  execu- 
tion as  well,  of  Gustavus  Adolphus.  The  laws 
which  govern  the  State  make  it  imperative  to  pro- 
vide the  best  opportunity  for  their  young  men, 
both  preparatory  and  classical,  as  students  can  only 
enter  these  college  doors  except  through  their  own 
high-schools.  As  one  of  the  protections  which  the 
Crown  demands  for  the  support  of  her  universities, 
no  Swede  can  enter  upon  a medical,  clerical,  or 
legal  profession  unless  he  has  taken  his  degree  at 
Upsala  or  Lund,  which  is  in  the  southern  part  of 
the  kingdom.  Different  sovereigns  have  erected 
valuable  aids  to  the  success  of  the  college.  Gusta- 
vus Adolphus  built  an  academy  with  lecture-rooms, 
and  a valuable  museum  with  extensive  collections, 


\ 


1 48 


A SUMMER  IN  SC  AN  DIN  A VIA. 


but  the  gift  of  Charles  XIV.,  the  Carolina  Redi 
viva,  is  by  far  the  most  important.  Here  is  a 
library,  well  chosen,  of  200,000  volumes,  and  about 
10,000  manuscripts.  Among  the  latter  is  the  cele- 
brated Codex  Argenteus,  a copy  of  the  four  Gos- 
pels, translated  into  the  Gothic  language  in  the 
4th  century,  and  written  in  letters  of  silver  upon 
vellum  of  pale  purple.  The  characters  are  nearly 
identical  with  the  Runic,  interesting  and  valuable 
as  the  oldest  monument  of  Teutonic  language. 
The  copy  was  made  in  the  5th  century,  and  after 
many  wanderings  found  lodgment  here,  but  through 
what  hands  it  passed,  or  nationalities  touched  in  the 
meantime,  the  tale  does  not  relate. 

The  1,200  students  make  the  place,  and  give  it 
the  unmistakable  aspect  of  a university  town. 
We  were  told  that  the  entire  cost  for  each  student 
did  not  of  necessity  exceed  more  than  $350  per 
annum,  which  was  one  explanation  of  the  great  in- 
telligence of  the  people,  and  a natural  reason  why 
so  large  a proportion  of  the  young  men  of  the 
country  received  a classical  education.  Judging 
also  from  little  incidents  which  came  under  our  ob- 
servation, the  word  education  was  not  a misnomer 
in  these  institutions,  for  there  were  not  only  a good 
many  hours  of  work  each  day,  but  to  be  a doctor 


UP  SAL  A. 


149 

one  must  work  from  five  to  seven  years,  and  the 
law  required  five. 

These  students,  though  bound  together  by  one 
national  heart,  represent  their  one  province  as  a 
single  nation,  where  they  have  their  separate  halls, 
libraries,  and  colors  noticeable  in  the  style  of  cap. 
If  they  have  little  to  stir  the  pulse  from  without, 
the  warm  blood  which  fires  their  veins  has  made  the 
youths  of  this  land  famous  in  what  is  called  their 
Annual  Congress,  which  we  unfortunately  missed 
as  one  of  the  exceptional  charms  of  this  Northern 
visit ; at  least,  the  stories  thereof  by  some  brilliant 
writers,  who  had  been  eye-witnesses  and  sharers  in 
these  festivities,  could  but  leave  the  impression  that 
they  were  as  novel  as  they  were  attractive. 

An  accident  depending  upon  climate  gave  birth 
to  this  custom,  about  the  dawn  of  the  present  cen- 
tury. It  was  in  winter  so  severe  that  the  strait 
which  separates  the  Danish  from  the  Swedish  coast, 
between  Copenhagen  and  Malmo,  was  frozen  over 
— rare  even  in  that  extreme  latitude.  The  students 
of  Lund,  in  southern  Sweden,  thought  it  would  be 
fun  to  profit  by  this  bridge  nature  had  made,  to  pay 
their  comrades  of  the  Danish  capital  a visit,  while 
at  the  same  time  the  Copenhagen  students  were  ar- 
ranging to  march  in  a procession  to  Lund,  and  cu 


1 50  A SUMMER  IN  SCAN  DINA  VIA. 

riously  enough,  both  impelled  by  the  same  thought, 
at  the  same  time  met  upon  the  ice  in  the  middle  of 
the  strait,  at  an  equal  distance  from  the  two 
kingdoms.  It  seemed  an  easy  thing  for  these 
young,  fresh  hearts — as  children  of  one  family,  es- 
pecially over  a joyous  frolic — to  forget  the  quarrels 
of  the  fathers,  and  so  the  gloomy  recollections 
which  they  had  been  taught  to  foster  by  the  Union 
of  Calmar — slumbered,  and  they  talked  with  friend- 
ly feeling  of  the  future,  resolved  to  bury  the  past, 
and,  after  numerous  toasts,  agreed  to  renew  these 
unions,  to  invite  their  comrades  of  Christiania  and 
Upsala,  the  object  of  which  should  be  to  draw  to- 
gether the  divided  branches  of  the  great  Scandina- 
vian race.  A white  cap  with  a black  rim  was  the 
sign  of  this  bridge  of  friendship  over  that  river  of 
blood  which  once  flowed  between  kindred'  nations. 
Since  that  time  several  of  these  congresses  have 
been  held  at  Upsala,  making  merry  the  entire  town 
with  a week  of  jubilee,  as  fresh  as  the  bright  young 
hearts  from  which  they  spring. 

In  every  assembly  where  the  members  are  over 
eighteen  years  of  age  politics  is  the  theme  for  dis- 
cussion— the  inspiration  of  the  speeches,  and  the 
enthusiasm  of  the  banquet.  It  was  in  the  midst  of 
such  festivities  that  the  idea  of  Scandinavianism 


UPSALA. 


151 

had  its  birth,  and  the  plan  adopted  that  under  the 
same  sceptre  the  universities  of  the  three  king- 
doms, Copenhagen,  Christiania,  Lund,  Helsingfors, 
and  Upsala,  should  unite. 

Twenty  years  ago  this  principle  of  nationality 
burned  with  such  zeal  in  the  hearts  of  these  Scan- 
dinavian youths  that  they  resolved  to  make  the 
tour  of  Europe,  as  personal  investigators  of  other 
races  and  governments,  as  seen  in  their  varied  cli- 
mates— their  governments,  institutions,  towns,  cit- 
ies, and  multiform  development ; and  as  a proof 
that  the  wiser  heads  of  the  kingdom  did  not  frown 
upon  this  enterprise  as  a foolish  adventure,  these 
young  men  were  joined  by  statesmen  and  journal- 
ists, who,  by  agitation  and  discussion,  made  this 
a fine  opportunity  for  valuable  lessons  to  those 
young  students  in  the  important  questions  of  polit- 
ical economy.  The  venture  was  not  exactly  after 
the  plan  or  expectations  of  the  wise  young  heads, 
but  it  marked  an  epoch  in  their  education  which 
was  a matter  of  congratulation  to  fathers  and  teach- 
ers, as  from  geographical  position  and  the  necessity 
of  great  economy,  the  sons  of  this  land  have  few 
opportunities  as  learners  from  personal  contact  with 
the  advanced  civilizations  of  the  world.  The  re- 
sult of  this  visit  was  so  marked  in  its  wise  and 


152  AS  UM ME  R IN  SC  A NDINA  VIA . 

helpful  lessons  to  the  students  in  the  universities 
of  the  North  as  to  have  made  a record  in  history, 
and  should  put  to  shame  the  waste  of  time,  money, 
and  thought  expended  upon  what  is  called  the  de- 
velopment of  travel  in  richer  lands.  The  -reunions 
of  these  seats  of  learning  went  on  as  before,  but 
the  young  men  gave  up  deciding  the  fate  of  dynas- 
ties, the  alliances  of  royal  families,  the  grave  ques- 
tions which  could  only  be  settled  by  the  nations 
where  they  were  agitated,  and  took  the  attitude  of 
learners.  Active  politics  was  proscribed  from  their 
banquets,  and  if  they  still  preach  the  drawing  to- 
gether of  the  different  branches  of  the  race  as  their 
proudest  theme,  they,  are  understood  to  speak  only 
of  a moral  literary  reunion — a union  which,  in  the 
North,  was  said  to  be  realized  thirty  years  ago,  when 
the  honored  and  revered  Tegner  “crowned  with 
laurels  the  Dane  Olenschlager,  in  the  Cathedral  at 
Lund,  amid  the  acclamations  of  the  youth  of  both 
countries.” 

Within  a few  years  these  fetes  have  derived  a 
fresh  importance  from  the  presence  of  the  Finnish 
students  of  the  Helsingfors  University.  Heretofore 
Finland  was  debarred  this  privilege  of  national,  or 
rather  ethnographical,  representation  ; but  in  1875 
the  Russian  Government  granted  the  authorization 


UPS  ALA. 


153 


asked  for,  and  the  family  circle  is  now  complete. 
These  festivals  afford  a fine  opportunity  for  hospi- 
tality on  the  part  of  the  students,  one  which,  from 
authenticated  reports,  they  do  not  fail  to  adorn 
with  faultless  cordiality. 

The  old  town  of  Upsala,  we  were  told,  was  es- 
pecially worthy  a visit,  as  this  was  once  a famous 
seat  of  the  ancient  mythology,  the  spot  chosen  by 
Freyja  after  the  worship  and  dynasty  of  his  ances- 
tor, Odin,  was  firmly  established  in  the  country,  for 
the  National  Temple.  So  here  the  capital  was  re- 
moved from  Sigtuna,  the  great  temple  was  built, 
and  justice  administered,  although  at  the  fearful 
cost  of  human  sacrifice. 

The  drive  there  from  the  university  had  not  even 
the  charm  of  a dreary  country,  but  a strangeness, 
which  we  could  hardly  define — perhaps  it  was  a 
tinge  of  antiquity — of  that  gloomy  sort,  the  records 
of  which  surrounded  this  atmosphere,  which  shad- 
owed the  wayside  flowers,  made  the  clover  fields 
look  out  of  fashion,  and  the  fields  of  grain  wear  the 
aspect  of  another  age.  Certain  it  is,  that  during 
the  short  drive  of  four  miles  we  had  left  the  civil- 
ization of  to-day,  and  aired  our  feeble  stores  of 
knowledge  belonging  to  the  dawn  of  time  in  this 
Northland  with  rapid  strides.  Murray  told  us  we 
7* 


154  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

should  find  the  remains  only  of  a small  village, 
which,  so  far  as  our  observation  went,  consisted  of 
a single  house,  the  little  granite  church,  so  quaint 
that  we  were  glad  to  accept  the  statement  that  a 
part  of  its  walls  belonged  to  the  ancient  temple, 
and  the  three  remarkable  tumuli,  which  tradition 
says  are  the  graves  of  Odin,  Thor,  and  Freyja. 
They  were  certainly  curious,  as  was  also  the  keeper 
of  the  ugly  little  church,  who  looked  like  a rem- 
nant (and  a small  one  also)  of  that  bygone  time, 
which  this  spot  makes  a feeble  effort  to  commem- 
orate. One  of  our  party,  who  was  familiar  with 
the  language  of  the  country,  vainly  tried  to  get 
some  information  from  him  of  what  we  saw  about 
us — half  concealed  legends  which  we  knew  were 
carefully  preserved  on  this  once  sacred  soil,  and 
which  only  required  but  a turn  of  the  key  to  make 
them  of  interest  to  us ; but  the  ears  of  this  antiqua- 
rian seemed  only  alive  to  our  small  coins.  So  we 
walked  through  the  old  church,  sat  under  the  trees, 
— useful  for  picnic  shade — searched  our  memories, 
while  two  of  our  party  made  some  pretty  sketches. 
Next  to  Sigtuna  this  is  said  to  be  the  spot  of  high- 
est antiquarian  interest  in  the  country  ; but  the  evi- 
dences did  not  appear  to  our  sight  or  sense,  and  it 
was  impossible  to  believe,  in  searching  the  miserable 


UPS  A LA. 


155 


church  for  one  feature  of  beauty,  that  a magnifi- 
cent temple  ever  covered  this  ground,  resplendent 
with  gold,  silver,  and  precious  stones,  alike  import- 
ant in  vestment  and  ceremonial. 

It  was,  after  all,  more  than  a myth,  the  worship 
of  Odin,  and  not  in  the  beginning  of  time  either, 
where  such  to  us  unnatural  things  are  often  placed. 
That  the  great  forces  of  nature  as  seen  in  some 
parts  of  this  land  gave  an  undue  value  to  the  mani- 
festations of  their  powers,  when  mind  was  in  the 
ignorance  of  infancy,  is  not  strange.  LTooking  at 
the  relations  of  cause  and  effect,  to  be  traced  alike 
in  art,  science,  and  religion,  whether  of  the  pagan, 
the  middle,  or  the  present  age,  it  was  not  unnatural 
that  these  Northerners,  dwelling  in  daily  com- 
munion with  this  grand  nature,  should  fancy  they 
perceived  a mysterious  and  independent  energy  in 
her  operations,  and  at  last  come  to  “ confound  the 
moral  contest  man  feels  within  him,  with  the  physi- 
cal strife  he  sees  around  him.” 

The  refinements  of  paganism,  such  as  belonged 
to  the  developments  of  classic  lands,  would  be  un- 
natural amidst  the  “ monstrous  crags,  the  glim- 
mering peaks  ” of  this  iron-bound  clime,  where  the 
contending  powers  of  nature  become  a daily 
presence,  and  the  “ opposing  forces  of  heat  and 


156  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

cold  a battle-ground.”  This  common  theory  of 
Odin’s  religion  did  not  seem  to  us  exactly  in  har- 
mony with  the  situation  of  the  two  important  cap- 
itals of  his  successful  reign. 

The  Malar  coast  on  which  Sigtuna  was  built  has 
the  ineffable  charm  of  the  North,  in  atmosphere  and 
light ; but  it  is  soft  and  poetic,  wholly  devoid  of 
the  wild,  rugged,  and  savage  aspect  which  belongs 
to  Norway,  while  the  eye  searches  in  vain  for  any 
suggestion  of  beauty  or  grandeur  in  wood,  hill, 
valley,  water,  or  mountain  across  the  landscape  at 
old  Upsala.  Yet  here  were  the  mounds,  and  even 
after  the  lapse  of  ten  centuries  the  name  of  Odin, 
it  is  said,  still  lingers  among  the  peasantry  of  the 
country,  although  not  in  that  sacred  manner  which 
is  the  boast  of  the  old  chronicler,  who  said  “ that 
his  countenance  was  so  beautiful  that  when  sitting 
among  his  friends  the  spirits  of  all  were  exhilarated 
by  it  ; that  when  he  spoke  all  were  persuaded  ; that 
when  he  went  forth  to  meet  his  enemies  none  could 
withstand  him.” 

The  highest  point  of  these  mounds  reaches  sixty 
feet,  and  that  they  were  made  for,  and  used  as, 
burial-places  is  unquestionable,  by  some  excavations 
made  in  1874.  If  it  was  a visit  where  imagination, 
credulity,  and  legendary  stories  (especially  of  the 


UPSALA. 


157 


thunder-god  Thor,  who  seemed  the  hero  of  the  oc- 
casion) had  a large  role  to  play,  there  were  a novelty 
and  strangeness  about  the  scene  all  its  own,  and  as 
we  strolled  over  the  mounds,  walked  through  the 
church,  and  sat  under  the  shade,  we  gave  ourselves 
up  to  the  fancy  that  through  this  open  door  we  had 
stepped  across  ages. 

This  is  the  region  of  reminiscence  and  association, 
noticeably  the  country  house  of  Linnaeus,  which  he 
enjoyed  for  many  years  as  prince  in  his  profession, 
holding  court — and  often  a large  one — with  country- 
men and  foreigners,  to  all  who  wished — his  words 
were  a free  gift.  To  the  shame  of  the  Swedes  his 
invaluable  collection  was  sold  to  England,  much  to 
the  mortification  of  Gustavus  I'll.,  who  sent  a frig- 
ate in  hot  haste  to  bring  the  treasures  back  again, 
but  unfortunately  it  was  too  late. 

Passing  an  interesting  national  monument  in  this 
vicinity,  the  work  of  Gustavus  III.,  in  the  preserva- 
tion of  the  Mora  Stones,  one  can  not  fail  to  recog- 
nize a generous  thought  and  patriotic  pride  in  this 
capricious  monarch — written  all  over  the  kingdom 
■ — strongly  at  variance  with  the  darker  records  of 
his  character. 


CHAPTER  X. 


DALECARLIA. 

From  this  important  seat  of  learning,  at  Upsala, 
the  tourist  naturally  travels  northward  to  the  prov- 
ince of  Dalecarlia,  interesting  from  its  great  min- 
eral resources,  not  only  of  Sweden,  but  also  of  the 
entire  peninsula  of  Scandinavia.  Geographically  it 
is  in  the  heart  of  the  kingdom,  although  so  isolated 
in  situation, — removed  from  the  spiritual  centre  by 
the  unflinching  habits  of  simple  peasant  life, — as  to 
seem  an  arctic  region.  It  is  but  a half-day’s  ride, 
by  rail,  from  Upsala  to  some  of  the  principal  man- 
ufacturing centres,  rich  in  ores  of  various  kinds, 
but  principally  iron,  everywhere  recognized  by  the 
development  of  this  industry,  both  in  Europe  and 
our  own  country,  as  the  best  metal  the  world  pro- 
duces for  Bessemer  steel ; and  but  for  the  isolation 
of  these  mines  from  the  great  producing  centres 
of  this  enormous  business,  would  bring  a valuable 
revenue  to  Sweden. 

At  Falum,  the  chief  town  of  the  province,  and 
(158) 


DALECARLIA . 


159 


the  political  heart,  so  called, — because,  nominally 
at  least,  this  little  republic  of  the  kingdom  has  a 
governor, — the  tourist  will  find  much  of  interest. 
Here  are  the  copper  mines,  the  oldest  and  most 
celebrated  in  Europe,  known  to  scientific  explorers 
over  six  hundred  years  ago,  although  it  is  supposed 
they  had  some  value  before  this  date, — in  fact,  ac- 
cording to  legend,  two  fighting  goats  were  the  first 
discoverers  of  this  mineral  resource.  During  the 
heat  of  their  battle  they  made  such  incision  into 
the  earth  with  their  horns  that  ore  adhered  to 
them.  They  were  first  worked  by  those  courageous 
men,  the  Lubeckers ; but,  with  all  their  ability  and 
shrewdness,  they  were  not  able  to  hide  this  source 
of  wealth  from  the  keen  Bo  Jourson  Grip,  who  held 
half  of  these  vast  mines  as  a fief  under  Queen  Mar- 
garet, the  far-famed  Semiramis  of  the  North.  The 
principal  shafts  have  royal  names,  and  were  origi- 
nally 1,200  feet  deep;  but  a century  ago,  by  reason 
of  injudicious  methods  of  work,  large  quantities  of 
the  crust  fell  in,  which  has  left  an  extensive  chasm, 
from  which  numerous  galleries  branch  off  to  the 
interior.  The  descent  to  the  first  terrace,  or  pla- 
teau, is  comparatively  easy,  and  leads  to  some 
magnificent  excavations,  which  have  been  put  to 
royal  uses. 


160  a SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

During  the  reign  of  Bernadotte,  one  of  these 
chambers  was  the  scene  of  a kingly  banquet,  at 
which  he  presided,  in  company  with  the  Queen  and 
the  Crown  Prince  Oscar.  The  isolation  of  this  im- 
portant province  has  not  prevented  their  keeping 
pace  with  the  times  in  the  improvements  in  machin- 
ery with  which  they  carry  on  their  work ; neither 
do  they  forget  the  scientific  part  of  it,  for  in  this 
retired  valley  mining  schools  are  established,  a 
technical  library,  model-rooms,  and  an  extensive 
mineral  as  well  as  geological  museum.  That  the 
Government  recognizes  the  necessity  of  training 
in  this  branch  of  study,  was  brought  to  our  notice 
during  the  first  days  of  our  Stockholm  visit.  One 
of  our  party,  as  we  were  sauntering  through  the 
streets,  came  unexpectedly  upon  an  old  acquaint- 
ance of  early  school-days ; and  in  answer  to  the 
natural  inquiries,  we  were  told  by  this  young  man, 
belonging  to  an  old  and  intelligent  family  of  one 
of  the  leading  towns  in  Massachusetts,  that  he  had 
been  sent  here  by  his  father  for  a thorough  edu- 
cation in  the  “ school  of  mines,”  which  from  per- 
sonal investigation  he  thought  had  no  equal  in 
any  land. 

This  valley  of  peasantry,  amounting  to  a popu- 
lation of  200,000,  has  a character  of  its  own,  singu- 


DALECARLIA. 


161 


larly  uninfluenced  by  what  is  called  more  progress- 
ive civilization.  As  they  were  centuries  ago,  so 
they  are  now,  content  and  proud  of  their  lot.  U nlike 
the  irritable  spirit  of  the  Norwegians  against  what 
is  called  the  aristocracy,  the  Dalecarlians,  in  their 
own  quiet  way,  live  as  equals,  believing  that  to  be 
a vital  law  in  their  own  little,  world,  without  oppo- 
sition or  contention  with  the  laws  of  the  realm ; 
ambitious  in  their  native  industries  to  keep  abreast 
with  the  world’s  high  tide ; yet,  in  social  codes,  re- 
sisting all  progress ; adhering,  with  unchanged  te- 
nacity, to  the  customs  of  the  fathers ; and,  to  their 
praise  be  it  said,  they  feel  that  their  present  happi- 
ness and  future  prosperity  are  safe  in  the  honest, 
manly,  industrious  principles  which  have  always 
been  the  governing  motives  of  their  lives.  This 
is  also  classic  soil,  and  justly  called  the  cradle  of 
civil  as  well  as  religious  liberty  in  Sweden. 

Early  history  makes  very  memorable  mention 
of  strong  allies  against  oppression  among  these 
miners, — a fact  not  far  removed  from  the  days 
when  the  young  blood  was  stirred  in  the  heart  of 
their  final  liberator,  Gustavus  Wasa.  This  was  a 
period  of  intense  civil  commotion,  which  the  young 
patriot  well  understood,  for  immediately  upon  finish- 
ing his  studies  at  Upsala,  he  volunteered  his  ser- 


1 62  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

vices  in  aid  of  his  kinsman,  Sture,  then  regent  of 
the  kingdom,  who  found  his  chief  support  against 
the  tide  of  oppression  with  these  brave  hearts  in 
Dalecarlia. 

If  patriotism  was  still  slumbering  in  the  mind  of 
young  Gustavus  Wasa,  an  event  occurred,  as  he  was 
launching  into  manhood,  which  left  no  doubt  as  to 
his  future  career,  and  made  him  through  all  after- 
time a proud  theme  of  story  and  song.  Christian 
II.  of  Denmark  sent  forth  a command  that  the 
finest  nobles  of  Sweden,  among  them  Wasa,  who 
had  already  begun  to  loom  up  as  a figure  to  be  feared 
by  this  cruel  king,  should  be  taken  as  hostages  to 
Copenhagen,  and  kept  there  as  prisoners  ; but  soon 
after  their  arrival  the  young  Gustavus  was  removed 
to  the  pleasanter  confinement  of  a castle  on  the 
coast  of  Jutland.  He  soon  contrived  an  escape 
from  these  walls ; and  on  learning  that  a part  of 
the  revenue  to  the  Danish  kingdom  was  the  Ger- 
man market  for  their  cattle,  he  reached  Lubeck  in 
safety,  under  the  disguise  of  a cattle-drover,  where 
he  made  such  a powerful  impression  upon  the  town 
authorities  that  he  was  sent  immediately  back  to 
Sweden.  He  found,  on  landing  at  Calmar,  that  it 
was  too  near  the  Danish  coast  for  protection,  and 
fled  with  all  haste  to  Dalecarlia,  dressed  in  the 


DALECARLIA. 


163 


peasants’  costume  of  the  country.  At  first  he  met 
with  many  discouragements  and  vicissitudes, — as  the 
ear  of  this  brave  peasantry  was  not  yet  open  to  the 
needs  of  the  time,  or  to  the  terrors  of  their  bondage. 

After  many  narrow  escapes  from  the  treachery 
of  his  pursuers,  it  was  on  this  soil  he  matured,  ar- 
ranged, and  began  to  carry  out  his  great  plan  for 
the  vindication  of  Swedish  independence.  Every 
roof  that  covered  his  head,  the  clothes  he  wore 
disguised  as  a peasant  ploughman  or  miner,  the 
bed  upon  which  he  slept,  the  tools  with  which  he 
worked,  fill  the  country  with  noble  memories,  pre- 
served with  sacred  care,  and  justly  held  in  profound 
reverence,  for  it  was  in  the  land  of  Dalecarlia  that 
“ Sweden’s  star  of  unity  arose.” 

The  simple  but  earnest  pleasure  which  is  every- 
where expressed  in  this  land  of  high  latitude  over 
the  return  of  summer,  the  awaking  of  nature 
again  into  warmth  and  glow  after  the  long  winter 
nights,  meets  its  highest  expression  with  this  iso- 
lated peasantry  in  the  midsummer  festival.  The 
24th  of  June  is  the  day  for  this  jubilee — the  crown- 
ing feast  of  the  year, — and  the  shores  of  Lake 
Siljan,  the  favorite  spot.  Everything  on  land  and 
water  — boats,  docks,  houses,  churches,  wagons, 
horses,  porches  of  the  farm-houses,  and  gateways— 


164  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

are  decorated  with  boughs  and  festoons,  all  redolent 
with  signs  of  gladness. 

The  Maypole,  raised  in  every  town,  hamlet,  and 
village — adorned,  by  young  men  and  maidens,  with 
garlands  of  flowers  and  festoons  of  evergreens— is 
the  centre  of  homage,  which,  with  the  holiday 
dress  of  the  various  costumes,  makes  a vivid  pic- 
ture. This  is  called  the  grand  opportunity  for  the 
display  of  finery — ’tis  summer,  and  it  can  be  seen, 
too  dazzling  in  color  to  pass  unnoticed.  The  wom- 
en w*ear  black  skirts,  red  bodices  with  white  sleeves. 
All  of  them  carry  Psalm-books  wrapped  in  silk 
pocket-handkerchiefs,  while  the  little  girls  are  put 
into  the  unnatural  colors  of  yellow  dresses  and  red 
aprons.  The  men  are  not  left  out  in  the  cold,  but 
are  also  bedecked  with  some  gay  plumage.  Their 
black  coats  are  embroidered  with  red  cord ; from 
their  large,  black  hats  are  suspended  red  tassels, 
which,  with  dark  knee-breeches,  blue  stockings,  and 
red  leather  gaiters,  make  a brilliant  costume.  All 
festivals  with  the  rural  population  of  Scandinavia 
are  celebrated  by  a dedicatory  church  offering,  after 
which  consecration  the  joyous  dance,  shouts  of  joy 
and  laughter,  and  merry-making  of  all  sorts,  for  old 
and  young,  parents  and  children,  surround  the  May- 
pole  of  the  welcome  midsummer  festival. 

Although  no  stately  palace  walls  rise  from  pic- 


DALECARLIA. 


165 

turesque  islands,  or  sunny  banks,  or  wooded  slope 
throughout  the  realm,  as  the  home  of  Sweden’s 
great  king,  yet  in  the  same  province,  rich  in  associ- 
ations with  the  early  days  of  the  first  Gustavus,  is 
the  little  town  of  Sala,  once  rich  in  silver  mines, 
the  forests  of  which  Hans  Christian  Andersen  has 
dedicated  in  his  charming  manner  to  the  youthful 
love  of  Gustavus  Adolphus.  It  was  here  he  first 
met  Ebba  Brahe,  and  many  legends  are  still  pre- 
served, in  this  now  solitary  spot,  of  a romance 
which  runs  through  all  that  still  exists  of  this  sweet 
story  of  early  love.  This  daughter  of  the  dis- 
tinguished family  of  Brahe  was  early  taken  from 
her  home  by  Christina,  Gustavus’  mother,  and 
brought  up  as  one  of  her  court,  with  the  natural  re- 
sult of  mutual  attachment  between  the  handsome 
prince  and  his  fair  companion.  The  father,  King 
Charles  IX.,  did  not  approve  of  these  early  devel- 
opments of  affection,  and  sent  his  son,  then  only 
fourteen  years  of  age,  to  try  his  skill  at  warfare 
against  the  Danes.  Gustavus  obeyed  the  royal 
command,  but  did  not  at  that  early  age  recognize 
any  law  which  prevented  his  declaring  his  love  to 
the  fair  Ebba,  which  he  did  with  vows  of  fidelity. 
This  absence  covered  three  years ; his  father’s 
death  being  the  occasion  of  his  return,  as  he  sup- 


A SUMMER  IN  SC  AN  DIN  A VIA. 


1 66 

posed  master  of  his  own  affairs,  only  to  be  disap- 
pointed, in  finding  his  mother  was  so  bitterly  op- 
posed to  this  romance,  that  she  had  sent  the  young 
maid  of  honor  away.  This  did  not,  however,  for 
long  outwit  the  young  lovers,  who  met  after  the 
sweet  fashion  of  true  affection,  exchanged  the  vows 
of  maturer  years,  when  once  more  the  youthful 
king  departed  with  that  confidence  of  untroubled 
waters  in  the  future,  which  naturally  resulted  from 
his  position  as  master  of  the  realm.  Two  years 
after  the  second  departure  the  queen  discovered 
the  following  letter,  which  made  her  very  unhappy, 
and  settled  the  question  in  her  mind  that  absence 
was  not  conquering  love  : 

Gustaf  Adolf  to  Ebba  Brahe,  at  the  age  of  19. 

Most  noble  damsel,  beloved  of  my  heart,  whom  I love 
most  in  the  world  : 

I have  received  your  loving  letter,  by  which  you  tell  me 
you  have  submitted  to  the  good  pleasure  of  your  father, 
my  request  with  which  I must  content  myself,  praying  God 
to  bend  in  grace  your  heart,  that  you  think  always  on  me, 
and  remember  the  faithful  love  I bear  you  ; and  that  you 
may  never  be  persuaded  that  I think  of  another  than  you. 
Oh  ! may  you  pray  God,  as  well  as  I,  that  He  may  let  us 
live  to  see  the  day,  which  may  bring  me  the  soft  consola- 
tion, and  to  you  the  joy.  To  His  guidance,  the  Holy  and 
Almighty,  I commend  you,  faithful  and  tender,  and  myself 
to  your  heart,  so  noble  and  faithful. 

I,  to  my  dying  day,  O,  cherished  maiden,  your  faithful 
and  attached  kinsman,  G.  A.  R. 


DALECARLIA. 


167 


The  story  goes  that  the  fair  Ebba,  in  the  fullness 
of  her  love,  most  unwisely  cut  with  her  betrothal 
ring  these  lines  on  a pane  of  glass,  on  one  of  the 
castle  windows,  “ I am  content  with  my  lot,  and 
thank  God  for  His  grace,”  which  when  the  queen 
saw  she  was  roused  to  plot  instant  defeat.  In  spite 
of  all  entreaties,  she  commanded  a marriage  be- 
tween Ebba  and  the  Count  Jacob  de  la  Gardie,  at 
once.  The  poor  girl  pleaded  for  her  lover,  who  was 
kmg;  that  at  least  the  marriage  should  be  delayed 
until  information  of  the  proposed  event  should 
reach  him  ; but  in  vain.  The  edict  went  forth  for 
the  ceremony  to  be  performed  in  the  great  church 
at  Stockholm.  It  was  midnight ; the  church  blazed 
with  a thousand  lights.  Christina,  accompanied 
by  all  her  court,  attended  the  ceremony ; but 
scarcely  had  the  nuptial  benediction  been  given,  De 
la  Gardie  and  Ebba  pronounced  husband  and  wife, 
when,  booted  and  spurred  like  young  Lochinbar, 
in  rushed  Gustavus.  “You  come  too  late!”  ex- 
claimed the  queen,  “ Ebba  is  married.”  Gustavus 
came  for  war,  not  for  peace,  and  broke  out  in 
threatening  imprecations  against  the  craven  bride- 
groom, who  knelt  before  him  in  earnest  entreaty  for 
pardon,  saying  he  dared  not  disobey  the  queen. 
For  a time  Gustavus  determined  to  dissolve  this 


j68  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

marriage,  so  cruelly  unjust,  but  the  wily  queen  had 
some  idea  of  the  noble  qualities  of  her  son,  and 
begged  him  not  to  set  the  example  of  divorce  for 
his  subjects.  “ It  little  concerns  us,”  says  Rollin, 
“ to  know  that  there  wrere  such  men  as  Alexander, 
or  Caesar,  or  Adolph  Gustaf,  or  Washington,  and  a 
host  of  others,  that  they  lived  in  this  day  or  that ; 
but  it  does  concern  us  to  know  the  steps  by  which 
they  rose  to  these  exalted  heights  of  grandeur.” 

Through  the  inexhaustible  supply  of  facts  which 
the  records  of  history  give  us,  we  know  causes  and 
results,  at  least  can  approximate,  from  the  differ- 
ent stand-points  of  time,  race,  and  progress  in  civil- 
ization,— the  underlying  forces  of  success  and  de- 
cline, and  how  especially  from  the  higher  aspects  of 
religion  and  morality  they  stand  out  as  beacon  lights 
in  their  own  as  well  as  in  all  other  ages.  There 
must  be  fresh  lessons  gathered  by  a visit  to  the  land 
made  illustrious  by  two  such  heroes  of  the  Wasa 
dynasty,  as  Gustavus  I.  and  his  grandson,  Adolphus, 
as  their  greatness  was  founded  on  the  one  principle 
of  Protestant  faith,  in  the  adoption  of  which  the  civ- 
ilizations of  the  world  reach  their  highest  develop- 
ment. 

The  act  of  the  first  of  these  royal  men  was  to 
make  his  subjects  free  men,  by  breaking  the  fetters 


DALECARLIA. 


169 


which  bound  them  nationally ; after  which  he  gave 
them  that  greater  liberty  of  Lutheran  faith,  to 
which  he  had  himself  listened  at  Lubeck,  by  its 
great  propagator,  where  he  made  his  escape  as  pris- 
oner from  Copenhagen,  held  as  hostage  with  other 
princes  of  the  realm  for  the  safety  of  their  king. 

To  his  grandson  Adolphus  it  was  reserved,  how- 
ever, to  raise  the  martial  glory  of  Sweden  to  a 
point  never  before  attained  ; and  also  to  be  the  first 
of  the  Scandinavian  monarchs  to  play  an  important 
role  in  European  history. 

More  than  two  and  a half  centuries  have  passed 
since  this  eventful  life  of  thirty-eight  years  closed, 
yet  it  seems  a living  presence  from  the  coast,  which 
borders  the  North  Sea,  to  the  shores  of  the  Baltic, 
dedicating  the  whole  country  that  lies  between  with 
that  sacred  and  tender  memory  which  could  only 
have  been  kindled  and  kept  burning  by  noble  qual- 
ities. This  young  prince  must  have  inherited  the 
talents  of  preceding  generations,  which  made  him 
an  apt  scholar,  and  greedy  for  all  the  advantages 
which  the  schoolmen  of  his  State  could  furnish. 

It  is  recorded  by  his  friend  and  chancellor,  Ox- 
enstierna,  that  his  talent  for  scholarship  kept  pace 
with  his  other  remarkable  qualities,  and  that  he  was 

not  only  proficient  in  the  classic  tongues,  but  that 
8 


170 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


he  gained  a complete  knowledge  of  all  the  import- 
ant languages  of  Europe.  Another  education,  that 
of  State,  commenced  when  he  was  only  ten  years 
of  age,  as  his  father  required  his  presence  at  all  of 
its  councils,  as  well  as  at  audiences  with  foreign  am- 
bassadors, which  early  training  was  doubtless  very 
potential  in  preparing  him  for  the  important  role 
he  was  called  upon  to  assume  in  comparative  youth, 
the  throne  being  made  vacant  by  his  father’s  death 
when  he  was  eighteen  years  of  age. 

At  this  moment  the  kingdom  had  lost  in  a great 
measure  the  national  strength  received  a half  cen- 
tury before,  by  Gustavus  Wasa.  “ The  spirit  of  the 
people  had  declined  the  natural  reaction  of  a 
great  conflict  was  being  realized ; senses  were  be- 
numbed, the  doors  unbarred,  and  the  enemy  from 
abroad  had  threatened  them  once  more.  The  young 
king  proved  himself  to  be  a statesman,  patriot,  and 
diplomatist.  By  the  aid  of  his  chancellor,  with 
whom  it  is  said  he  had  no  secrets,  and  with  a thor- 
ough appreciation  of  what  his  people  needed,  he 
laid  those  plans  for  upbuilding  the  State,  covering 
all  industries  which  secured  peace,  prosperity,  and 
harmony  at  home,  and  proved  a sure  defence  against 
the  threats  of  foreign  invaders.  After  the  settle- 
ment of  many  entanglements  with  outside  powers, 


DALECARLIA . 


171 

and  under  the  smile  of  a brighter  epoch  within  his 
own  borders,  he  left  the  affairs  of  State  with  the 
faithful  chancellor,  Oxenstierna,  and  placed  himself 
in  the  arena  of  the  greatest  war  Christendom  has 
ever  known  : the  proud,  glorious  contest — between 
moral  light  and  darkness,  religious  liberty  and  slav- 
ery— which,  to  use  his  own  words,  “ did  not  admit 
the  word  neutrality  either  for  the  individual  or 
the  State.” 

Gustavus  Adolphus  was  the  resplendent  figure 
through  which  nations  from  afar,  as  well  as  near, 
and  for  all  time,  will  look  with  thanksgiving  at  the 
result  of  the  last  and  final  struggle  the  world  will 
ever  witness  between  the  freedom  of  the  individual 
mind  on  all  questions  of  religious  thought,  and  the 
despotism  of  civil  and  ecclesiastical  power;  and  that 
he  kept  nothing  back  to  secure  this  inestimable 
blessing  to  mankind,  found  its  record  one  misty 
November  day  on  the  battle-field  of  Lutzen.  That 
he  made  an  epoch  in  history,  was  called  Germany’s 
Preserver,  and  stands  out  as  one  of  the  greatest  fig- 
ures in  the  world’s  drama,  is  a story  worthy  the  high- 
est thought  of  the  most  studious  minds  and  brilliant 
writers  of  any  age, — a story  which  belongs  to  the 
world,  and  large  enough  to  meet  some  of  its  great 
needs.  It  is  recorded  that  when  Adolphus  gave  the 


172 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


final  order  for  an  attack,  at  this  his  last  battle,  he 
clasped  his  hands  and  prayed:  “Jesus,  Jesus,  help 
me  to  fight  to-day  for  the  glory  of  Thy  holy  name ! ” 
and  that  after  he  fell,  the  Swedes,  with  jealous  fear 
lest  the  higher  place  he  filled  at  that  time  before 
the  world  than  king  of  Sweden  might  interfere 
with  their  claims,  seized  the  body,  bore  it  to  his  dis- 
tracted queen,  Maria  Eleonore,  of  Brandenburg^ 
after  which  it  was  placed  in  a silver  sarcophagus, 
and  accompanied  by  one  thousand  men  mounted  on 
black  horses,  with  black-covered  saddles,  from 
which  floated  long  crape  scarfs,  was  borne  through 
the  country — paralyzed  with  sorrow — to  Stockholm, 
and  such  a picture  of  loyal,  mourning  hearts  gives 
beauty  to  the  record,  that  “ this  was  their  funeral 
oration ; they  wanted  no  other.”  With  pathetic 
fervor  the  Swedes  have  appropriated  the  following 
beautiful  hymn,  composed  on  the  eve  of  the  battle 
of  Lutzen,  as  a farewell  from  the  heart  of  their 
beloved  king,  which  they  repeat  at  the  fireside  and 
have  introduced  into  their  Liturgy : 

“ Be  not  afraid,  thou  little  troop,  though  the  cry  and  the 
clamor  of  the  enemy  is  heard  on  every  hand  and  soundeth 
high.  They  will  glory  in  thy  fall ; but  let  not  thy  courage 
fail  thee,  their  joy  will  not  be  long.  Remember  that  thy 
cause  is  the  cause  of  the  Lord.  Go  wherever  you  are  called ; 


DALECARLIA. 


173 


be  led  by  His  beloved  hand  alone.  You  have  nothing  now 
to  fear.  It  shall  yet  be  heard  of  God’s  Gideon,  who  will 
strongly  fight  for  His  people,  at  the  word  of  the  Lord.  In 
the  name  of  Jesus  our  hope  is  sure ; but  the  force  and  cun- 
ning of  the  unbeliever  and  the  unrighteous  will  not  destroy 
us.  They  will  be  but  a scorn  and  a mockery.  With  us  is 
the  Lord.  With  Him  are  we — and  victory  is  ours.” 


CHAPTER  XL 


GOTHA  CANAL. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  and  novel  enter- 
prises of  the  early  part  of  the  present  century  was 
the  accomplishment  of  the  beautiful  water  highway 
across  the  heart  of  the  kingdom,  making  a direct 
communication  between  the  two  Swedish  seas. 
The  plan  of  uniting  the  open  sea  at  Goteborg  with 
the  Baltic  by  canal,  was  agitated  many  years  ago — 
before  the  reign  of  Gustavus  I. ; but  to  his  son, 
Charles  IX.,  the  honor  really  belongs  of  beginning 
the  undertaking, — one  of  the  few  things  recorded  of 
his  reign  worthy  of  his  distinguished  father  and 
noble  son. 

Of  the  entire  distance,  370  miles,  only  about  50 
are  canal — lakes,  bays,  and  rivers,  with  their  infinite 
variety  of  bank  and  wooded  shore,  making  of  itself 
a summer  journey.  This  trip  takes  the  visitor 
through  that  part  of  the  country  rich  in  the  history 
of  mediaeval  times.  Along  the  shores  of  lakes  or 
banks  of  rivers  (which  the  passage  through  the 
locks  gives  ample  occasion  for  visiting)  are  scattered 
(i74) 


GOTHA  CANAL. 


17  5 


the  pretty  chateaux  of  to-day,  the  well-preserved 
castles  of  centuries  ago,  picturesque  ruins  (notice- 
ably that  of  the  Scotch  earl,  Robert  Douglas,  who 
emigrated  to  Sweden  in  the  days  of  Cromwell), 
spots  where  remains  of  the  stone  and  bronze  ages 
are  still  to  be  found,  retreats  of  statesmen  and  gen- 
erals— names  illustrious  in  that  great  chapter  of  re- 
ligious triumph  which  illumines  Swedish  history, — 
and  a wealth  of  old  churches,  with  their  well-pre- 
served memories  of  a past  age — not  equalled  by 
any  country  in  Europe. 

First,  about  midway  on  the  eastern  shore  of 
Lake  Wettern,  now  crowded  with  the  enterprises 
of  to-day — in  its  exports  of  grain,  iron,  and  lumber 
— is  the  town  of  Wadstena,  which  a Swedish  au- 
thor has  named  their  “ Herculaneum  reminiscence 
city.” 

This  town  represents  the  short  though  powerful 
reign  of  the  Church  of  Rome  in  the  North,  to  which 
in  the  days  of  prosperity  it  owed  its  importance 
(as  it  does  now  its  memory),  and  of  which  St. 
Birgitta,  called  the  holiest  saint  of  her  age,  looms 
up  from  the  misty  background  as  the  important 
figure.  On  the  night  of  her  birth,  the  legend  says, 
there  stood  out  from  the  starry  heavens  a great 
cloud,  upon  which  appeared  a spotless  virgin,  who 


iy6  a SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA . 

said : “ Of  Birfer  is  born  a daughter,  whose  admi- 
rable voice  shall  be  heard  over  the  world.”  This 
child,  who  played  such  a remarkable  and  singular 
role  in  the  “ Mother  Church  ” of  that  period,  was 
born  of  the  house  of  Brahe,  and  tenderly  reared  in 
her  father’s  castle,  although  from  her  birth  she 
seemed  always  overshadowed  by  spiritual  visions 
and  revelations.  When  but  a child  she  married 
one  of  the  rich  noblemen  of  the  province,  to  whom 
many  children  were  born ; and  yet  amid  all  these 
sacred  claims  she  listened,  more  . and  more  as  the 
years  passed  on,  to  the  higher  voice  of  Christ,  who 
said,  “ Thou  shalt  be  my  bride  and  my  agent,” 
which  she  declared  controlled  and  guided  all  her 
subsequent  actions. 

In  obedience  to  the  Divine  Authority  the  vow 
of  consecration  was  taken,  and  she  commenced  her 
travels  for  the  Church,  which  extended  to  the  holy 
shrines  of  France,  Spain,  Rome,  even  to  Cyprus 
and  Palestine ; and  as  a result  of  this  enterprise, 
in  the  latter  part  of  the  fourteenth  century  .she 
founded  the  fine  monastery  at  Wadstena,  which  was 
consecrated  with  great  ceremony. 

It  was  not  permitted  that  St.  Birgitta  should 
close  her  mortal  sight  within  the  walls  she  had 
given  her  life  to  rear.  Pier  farewell  to  the  world 


GOTHA  CANAL. 


1 71 


came  during  a visit  with  the  Fathers  in  the  Eternal 
City ; but  in  dying,  the  heavenly  visitant  assured 
her  that  her  body  should  rest  within  the  sacred 
cloister  at  Wadstena,  whose  day  of  greatest  glory 
had  not  yet  dawned.  So  greatly  was  she  beloved 
that  pious  hands  bore  her  body  the  entire  weari- 
some (at  that  time)  journey  to  Sweden,  and  the 
church-bells  tolled  through  every  land  they  passed. 
In  fulfilment  of  the  promise  to  this  saintly  woman 
(so  the  story  reads),  there  followed  prosperous  days 
for  Wadstena.  The  proudest  daughters  of  the  land 
were  nuns,  and  the  young  nobles  wore  the  monk’s 
cowl.  Pilgrimages  were  made,  also,  to  this  famous 
shrine  from  foreign  lands.  Italy,  France,  and  Spain 
sent  their  devotees,  whose  visits  never  failed  to  en- 
rich their  coffers. 

Another  source  of  wealth,  and  a large  one,  is 
found  in  one  of  those  subtle  laws  by  which  Rome, 
in  all  ages,  has  wrought  such  wonders  in  enriching 
her  Church  through  the  superstition  and  ignorance 
of  her  people.  To  be  buried  under  the  shadow  of 
these  holy  walls  was  to  secure  an  entrance  into 
- heaven,  which  naturally  resulted  in  large  offerings. 
Possibly  the  individual  measure  of  entrance  into 
Paradise  was  commensurate  with  the  known  ability 

to  pay, — not  an  unjust  conclusion,  from  a bit  of 
8* 


jyS  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

history  the  stone  pavement  still  preserves.  On  a 
large,  worn  piece  of  granite,  which  the  footsteps 
of  ages  have  not  effaced,  near  the  entrance  of  the 
cloister,  are  carved  fourteen  rings,  which  say  “ that 
fourteen  farms  were  given  to  the  cloister ; that  he 
who  moulders  beneath  may  have  this  place  four- 
teen feet  within  the  church  door.”  This  was  the 
grave  of  Bo  Jourson  Grip.  Scarcely  anything  re- 
mains of  the  old  cloister  save  the  little  cell  of  the 
holy  founder,  the  glory  of  which,  a Danish  writer 
says,  “ lights  up  the  surrounding  landscape  with  a 
brilliancy  not  reached  by  any  of  its  climatic  phe- 
nomena of  light.” 

It  was  not  only  the  convent  of  St.  Birgitta,  but 
the  palace  of  the  first  Wasa,  that  gave  Wadstena 
distinction,  the  stone  outline  of  whose  “ spires  and 
towers  ” from  the  lake  look  as  though  they  had  been 
untouched  by  the  years,  but  a nearer  approach 
shows  that  its  glory  has  departed. 

This  castle  was  originally  the  royal  domain  of  the 
Swedish  sovereigns.  Built  in  the  days  of  Gustavus 
Wasa’s  glory,  after  his  battles  were  over,  in  the 
sunny  days  of  conquest,  erected  without  stint,  this 
palace  in  the  renaissance  style,  with  ornament  and 
luxury,  was  quite  in  advance  of  previous  times. 

Not  long,  however,  was  the  dream  of  pleasure  to 


GOTHA  CANAL. 


179 


last,  for  the  halls  of  merry-making  resounded  to  notes 
of  woe  forever  to  be  connected  in  the  hearts  of  the 
family  with  sad  recollections.  Duke  Magnus  inher- 
ited this  castle  by  the  will  of  his  father,  which  proved 
many  years  his  asylum, — the  walls  a barrier  strong 
enough,  as  was  supposed,  to  guard  with  safety  a 
lost  mind.  One  day,  fancying  he  saw  a beautiful 
mermaid  beckoning  to  him  from  the  waters  of  Lake 
Wettern, — many  grand  views  of  which  the  castle 
windows  commanded, — he  threw  himself  into  the 
moat  below,  forever  making  the  princely  castle  a 
dreary  tomb. 

The  great  work  of  the  canal,  so  far  as  engineering 
is  concerned,  was  accomplished  at  Trollhatta  Falls 
(home  of  the  water-witches).  These  are  one  hundred 
and  eleven  feet  high,  and  divided  into  four  large  cas- 
cades. Eleven  locks,  twenty-four  feet  in  width  and 
ten  deep,  connect  the  highest  point  of  the  canal 
where  it  joins  the  river  below  the  falls.  This  is 
an  excursion  of  hours  instead  of  minutes ; and  thus, 
as  during  the  entire  route,  the  opportunity  is  offered 
to  see  whatever  of  interest  surrounds  the  special 
locality.  O.ne  of  the  most  picturesque  views  is 
from  the  first  fall,  or  more  properly  cataract,  which 
is  divided  by  a small,  rocky  island,  covered  with  fir- 
trees,  which  give  the  dark,  waving  line  of  the  water, 


i8o 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


as  it  rushes  over  the  waters  below,  a fine  sight. 
These  cataracts,  when  compared  with  the  grander 
spectacles  of  Norway,  may  at  first  be  disappoint- 
ing; yet  the  enormous  volume  of  water,  from  the 
supply  of  the  great  inland  Lake  Wenern,  makes  the 
spectacle  extremely  imposing,  and  in  this  respect 
they  are  unsurpassed  in  Europe. 

It  is  curious  to  watch  the  staircase  of  basins, 
raised  one  above  the  other ; “ to  see  the  ships  and 
basins  rising  with  dignity,  as  from  a court  courtesy, 
until  the  two  waters  are  on  one  level.”  This  is  the 
ceaseless,  slow  progress  of  the  canal, — masts  and 
sails  rising  everywhere,  which  makes  the  Gotha 
trip  ever  gay, — ship  succeeding  ship,  steamer  fol- 
lowing steamer;  while  in  the  meantime  an  old  ruin 
can  be  visited,  the  walls  of  a once  famous  church 
investigated,  a delightful  walk  taken  by  wooded 
bank,  and  some  pretty  modern  home  investigated. 
Neither  does  the  novelty  end  here  ; for,  leaving  the 
canals,  the  steamers  of  the  lakes  often  make  their 
way  amidst  numberless  islands,  so  closely  packed 
as  at  times  to  render  navigation  intricate  and  diffi- 
cult, but  at  the  same  time  displaying  a labyrinth  of 
mysterious  channels,  now  washing  the  sides  of  bleak 
rocks,  now  touching  the  hanging  foliage  of  small 
islands,  and  presenting,  from  moment  to  moment; 
an  infinite  variety  of  charming  views. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


SOUTHERN  SWEDEN. 

OUR  pleasantest  trip  across  Sweden  was  by  rail 
from  Stockholm  to  Malmo,  which  we  took  leis- 
urely, and  which  gave  us  the  opportunity  of  look- 
ing at  the  producing  part  of  the  kingdom  from  the 
two  important  sources  of  agriculture  and  manu- 
facture. 

It  was  our  good  fortune,  also,  to  share  a part  of 
this  journey  with  a gentleman  prominent  in  the 
medical  university  of  the  State,  whose  acquaintance 
we  had  made  in  Stockholm,  from  whom  one  of  our 
party  had  received  great  civilities  in  visiting  the 
hospitals  of  the  capital,  and  whose  desire  to  add,  in 
every  way  possible,  to  the  interest  of  our  visit  to 
Sweden,  was  only  another  proof  of  the  cordiality 
and  civility  which  characterize  these  people.  Only 
a few  hours  from  Stockholm  brings  a marked 
change  in  the  aspect  of  the  country.  The  fields 
are  softer,  the  trees  larger  and  of  greater  variety, 
the  pine  noticeably  grand,  as  though  it  had  made 
a sudden  leap  from  a richer  clime,  while  through 

(181) 


x82 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


their  rough  trunks  one  sees  the  silvery  threads  of 
the  lakes.  They  are  not  the  highways  of  com* 
merce  found  in  the  central  part  of  the  kingdom, 
neither  have  they  the  beauty  of  color  which  marks 
a pilgrimage  to  the  Jungfrau  or  Lombardy;  but 
they  had  to  our  vision  a marvellous  power  for  re- 
flecting the  woods  which  lined  the  banks,  as  also 
the  sky,  like  mirrors  of  metal.  One  sunset  across 
these  small  waters  can  not  be  forgotten.  On  the 
shore  of  the  horizon  the  colors  had  all  the  shades 
of  the  setting  and  the  rising  sun,  the  heavens  and 
the  waters  which  reflected  them  of  one  hue, — these 
two  grand  forms  of  nature  appearing  and  disappear- 
ing the  one  within  the  other, — one  of  the  many 
occasions  amid  the  wonderful  display  of  effects  in 
Northern  Light,  when,  as  the  Earl  of  Dufferin  says, 
in  his  delightful  letters  from  “ High  Latitudes,” 
“ It  is  impossible  to  prevent  one’s  imagination  from 
absorbing  a dash  of  the  local  coloring,  which  may 
seem  magniloquent.” 

Leaving  this  wooded  plateau  with  its  mosaic  of 
pretty  lakes, — which,  tradition  says,  was  once  dread 
frontier  ground,  the  home  of  robbers  and  outlaws, 
— the  scene  changes,  and  you  are  plunged  into  a 
succession  of  manufacturing  towns  which  suggest 
other  lands.  Apparently  there  is  a spirit  of  ambi- 


SOUTHERN  SWEDEN. 


183 


tion  and  enterprise  among  the  Swedes  in  this  de- 
partment of  State  progress,  as  they  have  named 
their  towns  Manchester,  Liverpool,  etc. 

The  first  and  the  most  important  of  these  cities 
is  Norrkoping,  and  although  once  of  some  note  as  a 
place  of  architectural  beauty,  yet  fires,  and  the  rava- 
ges of  the  once  powerful  Danes,  have  destroyed  every 
mark  of  bygone  days ; and  all  that  is  to  be  seen  at 
present  is  a plain  modern  town,  with  a picturesque 
situation  on  the. river  Motala,  at  its  influx  into  the 
Baltic.  This  is  the  manufacturing  town  of  the  en- 
tire peninsula,  where  there  is  ship-building  and 
various  industries  already  in  that  stage  of  develop- 
ment, educational  and  financial,  which  furnishes 
not  only  employment  for  a large  population  within 
its  own  borders,  but  also  a stimulus  for  a large  dis- 
trict of  surrounding  country.  As  in  the  town  of 
Gustafsberg,  which  was  such  a revelation  of  cleanli- 
ness and  refinement  for  a manufacturing  centre,  so 
in  this  the  most  important  of  all  the  work-towns  in 
the  country,  the  various  factories,  large  and  small 
shops,  work-rooms,  streets,  and  homes  are  mar- 
vels of  neatness  and  thrift ; where  want,  if  there 
is  any,  hides  her  head,  as  there  are  no  beggars  to 
be  seen. 

There  are  some  humane  laws  to  be  met  with 


184 


A SUMMER  IN  SC  AND  IN  A VIA. 


here,  governing  the  employers,  which  in  Sweden, 
as  well  as  most  European  nationalities,  are  not  a 
dead  letter.  No  child  of  either  sex  can  be  employed 
in  store,  or  factory,  or  in  any  handicraft,  until  it 
has  passed  its  twelfth  birth-day.  In  manufac- 
turing establishments,  or  work-shops,  no  one  under 
eighteen  years  is  employed  between  nine  o’clock  in 
the  evening  and  five  o’clock  in  the  morning.  Those 
children  who  work  during  the  day  are  obliged  to 
attend  the  evening  classes,  as  the  law  of  Sweden, 
which  regulates  the  interference  of  labor  with  the 
education  of  her  children,  is  as  rigid  as  that  of  the 
ancient  Medes  and  Persians.  Besides  the  provision 
which  the  State  makes  for  education  in  every  cor- 
ner of  her  dominion,  the  rich  owners  of  this  flour- 
ishing town  have  matured  liberal  and  generous 
plans  for  the  large  class  who  come  under  their  spe- 
cial influence. 

Beginning  with  the  primary  schools,  which  have 
excellent  buildings,  the  town  of  Norrkoping  seems 
to  embrace  within  its  limits  every  opportunity  for 
advancement  in  study  which  is  needed  to  prepare 
young  men  for  the  university,  amid  an  entire  popu- 
lation of  the  laboring  class.  There  is  a high-school, 
a technological  institute,  “ situated  in  an  open 
ground,  commanding  a grand  view,”  which  fun 


SOUTHERN  SWEDEN . 


i85 


nishes  a good  laboratory  for  chemical  study;  a mu- 
seum well  filled  with  zoological  and  mineralogical 
specimens,  a department  for  instruction  in  draw- 
ing, and  a library  suited  to  the  growth  of  the 
readers.  Here  are  found  books  calculated  to  in- 
spire research,  stimulate  thought,  and  direct  in- 
quiry, especially  in  scientific  range.  There  are  also 
standard  works  from  historians,  novelists,  and  po- 
ets, of  the  current  literature  of  the  day,  from  Ger- 
man, French,  and  English  authors. 

Entering  the  province  of  Scania  is  like  crossing 
some  geographical  division  into  another  country. 
The  landscape  has  its  own  features.  We  had  left 
the  forests  behind,  the  hills  also,  and  the  lakes  were 
diminutive.  It  is  called  the  garden  of  Scandi- 
navia, and  justly.  So  the  Danes  thought,  as  this 
was  their  battle-ground  for  centuries.  We  had  the 
pleasure  of  a visit  during  the  harvest  season,  and 
saw  in  the  fields  of  yellow  grain  and  red  poppies  a 
bit  of  the  English  landscape,  while  the  rolling  coun- 
try,— with  few  trees  scattered  here  and  there,  and 
the  wealth  of  its  productive  acres, — suggested  the 
rich  lands  of  our  Western  States. 

It  was  not  necessary  to  be  told  that  this  was  the 
home  of  the  titled  families,  as  the  pretty  chateaux 
told  their  own  story.  Apparently  at  one  time  the 


1 86  A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 

nobles  were  strongly  divided  in  taste,  as  some  of 
these  estates  are  decidedly  English, — walls  covered 
with  ivy ; roof,  turret,  and  tower  in  perfect  harmo- 
ny,— while  a bordering  French  chateau,  resplendent 
with  the  bright  colors  of  flowers,  contrasts  singularly 
with  the  parks,  and  the  grand  trees  of  their  neigh- 
bors. Many  of  these  ancestral  homes  were  built 
when  Skane  belonged  to  Denmark,  and  in  their 
structure  they  have  left  one  record  of  the  intense 
religious  feeling  of  that  period  in  the  sculptured 
representations  of  the  Trinity  over  the  gateway. 
Many  of  the  owners  of  these  homes  bear  names 
well  known  in  the  annals  of  history,  while  within 
are  found  libraries  valuable  to  the  lover  of  history, 
and  on  their  walls  hang  portraits  of  men  and  women 
famous  in  the  records  of  those  eventful  days. 

An  intimate  relationship  apparently  exists  be- 
tween the  nobility  and  peasantry,  which  in  Skane 
does  not  mean  poverty,  judging  from  the  well-built 
farm-houses  embosomed  in  the  trees,  and  also  the 
neat  but  more  humble  homes  of  the  laborers.  In 
the  distance  it  was  often  difficult  to  decide  which 
was  castle  or  farm-house,  as  many  of  the  latter  are 
quite  pretentious,  with  an  imposing  front  along  the 
road,  of  one  hundred  feet,  and  a single  entrance ; 
but  a nearer  approach  showed  that  these  gateways 


SOUTHERN  SWEDEN. 


1 87 


were  not  for  gilded  coaches,  but  for  carts  and  teams 
of  farm  products.  This  was  the  home  of  Frederika 
Bremer,  a name  dear  to  a wide  range  of  readers  in 
many  lands,  and  of  whom  it  is  said  no  writer  since 
the  days  of  Tegner  has  created  such  admiration  in 
Sweden. 

We  looked  out  for  a more  intimate  acquaintance 
with  the  “ neighbors,”  admired  the  stately  house  of 
ma  chtre  nitre,  enjoyed  the  quieter  dwellings  of  her 
children,  revelled  in  the  exquisite  lakes,  the  beauti- 
ful woods,  the  pleasant  roads,  bordered  with  shade ; 
and  were  sure,  but  for  the  noisy  car  as  evening  ap- 
proached, we  should  have  heard  the  “ great  organ 
at  Ramen.”  Nearing  the  southern  border  we  no- 
ticed an  abundance  of  fruit,  and  a soil  rich  enough 
for  market-gardens ; so  that,  as  the  Skanians  on  the 
border,  like  their  German  neighbors,  indulged  in 
the  luxury  of  five  meals  a day,  it  seemed  only  a 
legitimate  result  of  nature’s  bountiful  supply. 

Our  trip  by  rail  came  to  an  end  at  Malmo, — the 
busy,  thriving  capital  of  Scania,  the  third  city  of 
importance  in  the  kingdom, — pleasantly  located  on 
the  Sound,  opposite  Copenhagen.  During  the  Han- 
seatic period  of  the  middle  ages  this  was  the  com- 
mercial town  of  the  Sound,  attracting  merchants 
from  all  parts  of  the  Baltic  ; but  the  records,  as  well 


1 88 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


as  the  prosperity  of  that  day,  have  declined,  and 
its  present  importance  is  wholly  due  to  the  modern 
enterprises  of  an  extended  harbor  and  various  man- 
ufactures, among  them  the  well-known  Swedish 
gloves, — pleasant  information  for  the  ladies.  Within 
a few  years  the  Church  of  St.  Peter’s,  founded  in  the 
fourteenth  century,  has  been  rebuilt,  and  proudly 
claims  the  distinction  of  being  the  spot  where  the 
Lutheran  faith  was  first  promulgated,  the  walls  of 
which  are  adorned  by  a life-size  portrait  of  the 
Great  Reformer. 

This  is  the  finest  gothic  church  in  Sweden,  of 
pure  pointed  style,  remarkable  alike  for  the  harmo- 
nious effect  of  external  and  interior  beauty.  What 
was  once  the  Castle  of  Malmo  is  now  a prison,  and 
was  years  ago, — much  to  Count  Bothwell’s  sorrow ; 
the  Count  was  the  third  husband  of  the  unfortunate 
Mary  Stuart,  and  in  this  castle  he  wore  his  prison- 
er’s chains.  Here,  also,  at  the  governor’s  residence 
the  beloved  King  Charles  XV.  died,  as  he  was  re- 
turning from  Aix-la-Chapelle  to  Stockholm. 

The  university  town  of  Lund  is  an  adjunct  of 
Malmo,  and,  according  to  tradition,  was  a flourish- 
ing city  at  the  beginning  of  the  Christian  era.  Even 
in  the  pagan  age  it  is  said  to  have  had  a population 
of  200,000  souls,  twenty-one  churches,  and  several 


SOUTHERN  SWEDEN. 


189 


monasteries,  with  its  Cathedral  of  St.  Lawrence — 
founded  in  the  eleventh  century.  But  that  day  of 
glory  has  departed,  and  now  what  remains  is  but 
the  type  of  a worn  and  ecclesiastical  town,  the 
cathedral  and  college  buildings  overshadowing  the 
humble  streets  like  giants.  That  she  was  revived 
and  still  lives  comes  largely  from  the  desire  to 
please  the  Danes,  at  the  time  Scania  was  ceded  to 
the  Swedish  Crown,  as  the  students  of  the  uni- 
versity at  that  time  were  nearly  all  from  Denmark. 

The  sovereign  held  in  high  honor  at  Lund  is 
Charles  XII.,  as  here  he  was  educated,  spent  in 
after-years  some  time,  and  embalmed  the  university 
with  many  tokens  of  interest.  The  character  of 
this  wonderful,  but  inharmonious,  man  has  been  a 
favorite  theme  with  historians,  moralists,  philoso- 
phers, and  poets.  That  he  had  qualities  great 
enough  to  win  the  love  of  his  subjects  and  the  ad- 
miration of  the  world  is  indisputable  ; for,  inured  to 
the  hardest  exercises  and  humblest  fare,  he  assumed 
the  personal  command  of  his  troops,  and  led  them 
to  a succession  of  victories,  crushing  his  enemies  in 
detail  with  a rapidity  unheard  of  in  the  annals  of 
war.  It  is  recorded  that  while  the  Swedish  army 
was  encamped  near  the  renowned  battle-field  of 
Lutzen,  the  king  was  shown  the  spot  where  Gus- 


A SUMMER  IN  SCAN  DINA  VIA . 


I90 

tavus  Adolphus  fell,  and  said  with  marked  rever- 
ence : “ I have  sought  to  live  like  him ; perhaps 
God  will  grant  me  an  equally  glorious  death.”  In- 
toxicated with  success,  and  defiant  of  advice,  the 
career  of  this  ambitious  man  ended  in  his  assassin- 
ation during  the  siege  of  Fredrikshald,  on  the  Nor- 
wegian coast.  The  names  of  Lutzen  and  Pultowa 
will  be  forever  identified  with  Swedish  history. 
The  victory  won  by  the  valor  of  Gustavus  Adol- 
phus at  Lutzen  raised  the  State  from  obscurity  to 
a proud  preeminence  ; and  the  defeat  of  Charles  XII. 
at  Pultowa  stripped  her  of  those  laurels — won  at  a 
great  cost,  which  she  has  never  regained. 

Napoleon,  in  his  memoirs  dictated  at  St.  Helena, 
says  of  Gustavus,  that  “ he  understood  the  art  of 
war;  of  Charles  XII.,  that  he  was  only  a brave,  in- 
trepid soldier.”  There  are  other  associations  of  re- 
nowned names  connected  with  Lund — Linnaeus,  and 
Tycho  Brahe,  whose  birth-place  was  under  the 
shadow  of  this  university  town  ; but  what  at  this 
moment  can  not  fail  to  be  of  great  interest  to  the 
tourist  is  a visit  to  the  home  of  Esais  Tegner,  the 
beloved  poet.  The  house,  with  all  its  appoint- 
ments, is  kept  with  great  care,  and  after  the  order 
of  its  occupant  when  living,  especially  the  study, 
where,  it  is  said,  the  Frithiof  Saga  was  composed. 


SOUTHERN  SWEDEN. 


I9I 

Here,  as  in  every  part  of  the  peninsula,  you  see 
again  the  national  honor  paid  to  those  men  who  have 
illumined,  through  their  distinctive  talent,  some  page 
of  Swedish  history.  Adjacent  to  the  cathedral  is  a 
park  named  for  Tegner,  and  ornamented  with  his 
statue  in  bronze,  where,  on  the  thirteenth  of  every 
November — the  anniversary  of  the  poet’s  birth-day 
— the  students  assemble  round  the  statue,  and  cele- 
brate the  day  with  processions,  songs,  and  speeches. 

According  to  the  laws  of  the  realm  Sweden  is  a 
constitutional  monarchy,  hereditary  by  primogeni- 
ture, in  the  male  line  alone.  In  the  king  is  vested 
the  sole  executive  power,  the  command  of  both 
army  and  navy,  and  with  the  advice  of  the  State 
Council,  all  decisions  with  foreign  relations  as  well 
as  legislative  laws. 

In  Norway  the  Storthing  is  power — a republic — 
chosen  by  the  people  for  the  term  of  three  years, 
all  of  equal  voice  ; but  the  Swedish  Diet  has  two 
chambers,  and  the  candidates  for  the  upper  one  are 
appointed  for  the  long  term  of  nine  years  upon 
conditions  which,  in  some  countries,  would  make 
their  office  of  uncertain  tenure — as  requirements 
are  many.  No  man  is  eligible  to  this  office  until 
after  he  has  passed  his  thirty-fifth  year,  and  of  finan- 
cial ability ; he  must  give  proof  that  he  has  for  thre*- 


192 


A SUMMER  IN  SCAN  DINA  VIA. 


years  paid  a tax  on  80,000  riksdalers  (kronas)  of. 
well-invested  property,  as  this  service  to  the  Govern- 
ment must,  according  to  law,  be  gratuitous. 

The  law  not  only  requires  proof  of  invested  prop- 
erty, but  also  of  an  income  of  4,000  riksdalers  for 
three  years,  from  capital  or  labor,  previous  to  his 
election ; and  if  he  lose  either  investment  or  in- 
come after  he  enters  upon  his  term  of  office,  he  is 
obliged  to  resign  it  immediately.  As  there  are  only 
about  six  thousand  Swedes  eligible  to  this  position 
in  the  entire  kingdom,  the  opportunity  for  personal 
ambition  is  not  a large  one. 

The  members  of  the  lower  house  represent  the 
democratic  element  of  the  State ; are  chosen  for 
three  years,  by  direct  vote  of  the  district  from  which 
they  are  sent,  with  limited  requirements  as  property- 
holders,  and  are  paid  for  their  services.  Although 
one  sovereign  is  crowned  king  of  what  is  called  the 
United  Kingdom  of  Norway  and  Sweden,  yet  they 
are  as  far  apart  as  though  divided  by  great  geo- 
graphical boundaries  and  diverse  necessities, — a sep- 
aration which  grows  year  by  year. 

The  Norwegian  is  born  of  the  mountains,  mould- 
ed, invigorated,  and  solemnized  by  the  grand  and 
rugged  features  of  the  scenery  which  everywhere 
surrounds  and  holds  him  in  subserviency.  Man, 


SOUTHERN  SWEDEN 


193 


with  these  people,  must  stand  supreme ; the  em- 
bodiment of  strength,  dignity,  and  power,  which 
makes  him  as  antagonistic  to  the  divisions  of  class 
— the  titled  families  of  their  Swedish  neighbors — 
as  they  by  taste  and  inheritance  are  devoted  to  it. 

Two  such  opposing  currents  can  not  flow  on  in 
an  unruffled  stream,  and  it  is  firmly  believed  that  in 
the  near  future  this  disunion  of  feeling  will  end  in 
an  absolute  separation  of  the  States.  This  an- 
tagonism seems  to  exist  wholly  with  the  western 
branch  of  the  family,  as  the  Swedes  on  all  occa- 
sions pay  great  respect  to.  the  peasant  class,  never 
having  raised  the  slightest  objection  to  the  costume 
of  the  Dalecarlians,  who  always  appear  before  the 
councils  of  the  Diet  in  their  simple  dress. 

Although  a large  part  of  Northern  Sweden  is 
sparsely  settled,  yet  it  has  a population  of  5,000,000, 
— nearly  four  times  the  size  of  Norway,  who,  for 
three-quarters  of  a century,  have  been  under  an  ad- 
ministration of  progress  never  before  known  in  the 
history  of  their  country.  The  sovereigns  of  the 
present  dynasty  have,  with  great  veneration,  builded 
upon  the  work  of  the  preceding  generation,  and  by 
their  accomplishments  and  large  acquaintance  with 
the  world’s  progress,  have  quietly  made  great  ad- 
vances in  the  elevation  of  the  people. 

9 


194 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


Although,  as  in  Norway  and  Denmark,  the  estab- 
lished church  is  Lutheran,  to  which  the  king  and 
most  of  the  State  functionaries  are  obliged  to  con- 
form, yet  there  is  a toleration  of  other  sects  here 
not  recognized  in  the  western  half  of  the  kingdom, 
— one  proof  of  which  has  been  recently  given  in  the 
abolition  of  the  law  which  did  not  recognize  mar- 
riage as  legal  unless  both  parties  had  been  confirmed 
in  the  established  church. 

While  there  is  a leniency  with  regard  to  sects,  the 
law  still  requires  some  acknowledgment  of  religious 
vows ; and  if  proof  is  not  given  that  the  dissenting 
faith  is  adopted,  confirmation  in  the  State  Church  is 
expected  before  the  fifteenth  birth-day  has  passed. 

Ecclesiastical  affairs,  although  discussed  by  a 
council,  yet  the  opinion  of  the  king  is  the  final  de- 
cision, as  in  Norway  the  clergy  are  highly  educated, 
but,  for  some  reason,  they  are  not  so  well  paid. 

Until  within  the  last  half  century  the  liquor 
traffic,  in  both  Norway  and  Sweden,  was  almost 
free, — especially  in  Norway,  where  the  reformatory 
work  first  commenced  in  1833.  A duty  was  im- 
posed upon  the  sale  of  all  intoxicating  drinks. 
The  temperance  societies  worked  vigorously ; the 
aid  of  all  good  citizens  was  given  throughout  the 
country,  which  resulted  in  decreasing  this  fearful 


SOUTHERN  SWEDEN. 


195 


traffic  over  one-third  in  ten  years.  This  produced 
so  marked  a change  in  every  department  of  national 
prosperity,  that  both  countries  have  paid  great  at- 
tention to  those  measures  which  have  for  their  ob- 
ject the  removal  of  this  evil. 

One  of  these  reformatory  acts,  passed  in  1877, 
regulating  the  sale  of  liquors  in  Sweden,  is  es- 
pecially worthy  of  mention.  Nowhere  shall  it  be 
retailed  unless  food  is  sold  at  the  same  place.  In 
many  cases  the  duty  is  fixed  at  such  a high  rate  as 
to  close  the  shops,  and  to  the  credit  of  both  king- 
doms, the  sale  of  spirits  is  entirely  prohibited  by 
law  on  Sundays  and  Saints-days ; also  on  Saturdays 
and  the  eves  of  festivals  after  five  o’clock  in  the 
afternoon. 

One  of  the  indisputable  facts  of  the  superiority 
of  a race  is  founded  in  education — the  axe  laid  at 
the  root  of  the  tree, — and  whether  in  Northern  or 
Southern  Sweden,  along  the  shores  of  the  inland 
seas,  on  the  Baltic  coast,  the  western  sea-shore,  or 
the  beautiful  garden  of  Scania,  the  school-house  is 
the  finest  and  most  noticeable  building, — a word 
which  means  not  one  but  many  institutions  of  learn- 
ing. As  in  the  other  Scandinavian  countries  edu- 
cation is  compulsory ; but  the  executive  in  this 
land  has  been  inflexible,  and  with  results,  which 


196 


A SUMMER  IN  SCAN  DINA  VIA. 


statistics  proved  a few  years  ago,  worthy  the  emu- 
lation of  every  land.  The  Swedish  Diet  passed  a 
law  in  1842  requiring  every  child,  from  eight  years 
of  age  to  fourteen,  the  period  of  confirmation,  to  at- 
tend the  public  schools,  unless  proof  could  be  given 
that  he  was  taught  at  home.  This  law  left  no  op- 
tion with  the  will  of  the  parent ; at  least,  on  one 
question,  he  could  not  remain  in  ignorance : he 
must  be  taught  in  the  way  the  law  deemed  indis- 
pensable as  a foundation  for  citizenship  ; and  if  the 
parent  refused  to  recognize  this  law,  the  child  could 
legally  be  taken  from  his  own  home,  placed  in  the 
care  of  another  family,  or  in  a place  which  the  offi- 
cial of  the  Government  should  decide  as  suitable, 
and  the  parent  be  compelled  to  meet  the  expense. 

That  this  did  not  prove  a fruitless  effort  on  the 
part  of  the  State  for  the  sound  training  of  her  chil- 
dren was  shown  by  the  census  of  1873,— -a  result 
worthy  of  the  thought  and  emulation  of  all  lands ; 
for  if  this  country,  poor  in  climate,  in  money,  in 
many  ways  which  are  spoken  of  as  national  wealth, 
can  show  that  ninety-seven  per  cent,  of  her  entire 
population — from  north  to  south  and  from  east  to 
west — are  being  safely  taught  after  the  best  meth- 
ods the  nation  can  devise,  she  is  not  poor,  but  rich, 
and  is  laying  up  wise  provisions  for  future  prosper- 


SOUTHERN  SWEDEN. 


19  7 


ity.  None  are  left  uncared  for  in  Sweden;  and  to 
meet  the  wants  of  those  sparsely-settled  countries 
not  able  to  build  school-houses,  the  ambulatory 
system  is  introduced,  with  the  same  provision  for 
mental  training. 

The  system  of  education  in  this  country  has  oc- 
cupied the  mind  and  thought  of  their  ablest  states- 
men and  educators  for  years, — the  primary  course 
most  of  all,  the  curriculum  of  which  has  been 
greatly  extended.  Bible  history,  theology,  and 
natural  history  are  among  the  rudiments  ; also  the 
elements  of  natural  science,  and  sometimes  the 
gymnasium.  It  rests  with  the  School  Board  to  ex- 
tend the  course  of  study  as  they  see  fit ; their 
power  is  ad  libitum. 

It  is  interesting  to  see  the  universal  interest  in 
what  is  called  higher  branches  of  education — as 
drawing,  surveying,  and  horticulture  are  being 
largely  taught  in  the  country  ; gardening  also,  and 
needlework  for  girls.  Within  the  last  quarter  of  a 
century  a higher  people’s  school  has  been  established 
to  help  the  children  of  the  working  classes  in  the 
approved  methods  of  skilled  labor. 

The  State  is  not  satisfied  with  results  already  at- 
tained, and  yearly  introduces  some  new  department 
of  mental  inquiry  for  a wider  range  of  knowledge, 


igS  A 'SUMMER  IN  SC  AND  IN  A VIA . 

conspicuously  the  careful  training  of  those  who  are 
to  be  teachers.  Eleven  seminaries  are  scattered 
throughout  the  realm  for  these  instructors  of  Folk- 
skolar,  where  one  year’s  gratuitous  instruction  is 
given  in  all  the  studies  which  come  within  the  range 
of  their  professional  duties ; while  in  addition  to 
the  established  schools,  seminaries,  and  universities, 
the  management  for  the  physical  instruction,  the 
libraries,  museums,  and  gymnasiums  are  as  delight- 
ful as  they  are  surprising. 

The  most  famous  free  school  is  in  Stockholm, 
wholly  designed  to  promote  the  industries  of  the 
people.  Free-hand  drawing  is  taught,  engraving 
modelling,  painting,  lithography,  geometrical  con- 
struction, the  practical  branches  of  mathematics, 
book-keeping,  besides  the  foreign  tongues  of 
French,  German,  and  English.  At  present  it  has 
about  2,000  pupils,  chiefly  among  the  working- 
classes  of  both  sexes.  This  noble  institution  has  a 
department  of  instruction  for  women  only  during 
the  day,  for  which  each  pupil  has  to  pay  the  sum  of 
fifty  ore  a month, — the  infinitesimal  amount  in  our 
money  of  thirteen  cents , — which  secures  not  only  all 
the  advantages  of  the  evening  classes,  but  the  addi- 
tional lessons  in  Parian  work,  modelling  in  clay  and 
wax,  and  perspective  art. 


SOUTHERN  SWEDEN. 


199 


There  is  certainly  behind  this  praiseworthy  fact 
of  what  is  already  attained  in  education  among  the 
Swedes,  an  interesting  question  of  cause.  Such  re- 
sults are  in  strong  contrast  with  Southern  Europe, 
from  whence  all  that  is  stirring  in  literature  and 
art  has  sprung  ; it  does  not  belong  to  climate,  for 
in  comparison  their  eastern  neighbors,  the  Russians, 
are  barbarians.  Great  Britain,  with  her  wealth  of 
universities,  her  stores  of  learning,  shows  no  such 
statistics ; and  even  our  New  England  of  to-day 
finds  an  apology  for  a decline  of  universal  educa- 
tion because  of  our  foreign  population.  French  is 
generally  spoken  by  the  students,  and  with  fluency, 
which  is  a proof  of  familiarity  with  their  literature. 
Many  of  the  working-classes  have  some  knowledge 
of  this  tongue,  which  to  some  extent  may  be  a 
natural  outgrowth  of  the  fact  that  French  is  the 
court  language  ; but  aside  from  that,  or  possibly  as 
a foundation  of  that  fact,  there  seems  to  be  in  the 
Swedish  character  a national  affinity  as  there  is  a 
traditional  love  for  France, — a fact  publicly  acknowl- 
edged at  the  French  court  in  the  days  of  Gustavus 
III.,  who  was  received  with  great  enthusiasm  by  the 
Peers  of  that  empire,  during  a protracted  visit  in 
Paris,  as  the  Count  du  Haga. 

Diderot  says  that  when  he  entered  the  French 


200 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


court  or  tribune  he  was  received  with  loud  acclama- 
tions of  applause,  many  orators  proudly  asserting 
that  as  Europe  gave  to  the  Swedes  the  name  of 
Frenchmen  of  the  North,  it  was  the  right  of  the 
French  to  be  called  the  Swedes  of  the  South, — a tri- 
umph which  might  well  have  turned  the  head  of 
this  young  prince,  whose  sole  ambition  at  that  time 
was  the  adoption  of  French  customs  into  his  own 
court,  and  may  possibly  have  had  an  influence  in  cor- 
rupting, at  one  time,  so  magnificent  an  administra- 
tion, as  to  make  him  an  idol  with  his  people,  ending 
in  the  hatred  of  an  assassin’s  bullet. 

Aside  from  theories  and  opinions  advanced  by 
different  writers  on  corresponding  elements  of  char- 
acter between  these  nationalities,  it  is  impossible 
not  to  recognize  the  common  trait  of  the  careful 
use  of  money,  not  only  in  economy,  but  taste. 
Among  our  sources  of  information  on  this  point  we 
met  two  gentlemen  of  different  stations  in  life  who 
had  spent  about  an  equal  portion  of  their  lives  in 
Sweden  and  America.  The  opportunity  of  extrav- 
agant fortunes  does  not  exist  within  their  borders, 
much  less  rapid  ones,  so  that  the  current  of  life 
with  them  is  not  subject  to  the  ebb  and  flow  of  this 
disturbing  element,  so  powerfully  illustrated  by  the 
undeveloped  opportunities  of  our  own  land.  The 


SOUTHERN  SWEDEN. 


201 


temptation  of  riches  is  not  theirs  to  combat,  and 
naturally  what  is  called  the  amusement  or  recrea- 
tion oMife  must  be  founded  on  the  principle  of 
wise  expenditure,  which,  since  the  dawn  of  that 
brighter  day  of  more  temperate  habits,  has  given  a 
quiet,  healthy  tone  to  the  pleasure-loving  habits  of 
all  classes. 

The  pleasure  gardens  everywhere  filled  with  fam- 
ilies, the  little  steamers  cruising  about  in  all  direc- 
tions on  the  quiet  waters,  were  amusements  within 
the  means  of  all ; so  that  the  statement  made  by 
one  of  these  gentlemen,  that  when  the  laboring,  or 
in  fact  any  of  the  prosperous  classes  in  America 
could  get  as  much  enjoyment  out  of  one  dollar,  as 
the  Swedes  did  out  of  a krona,  it  would  be  a blessed 
thing  for  them  and  for  the  country,  did  not  seem 
extravagant. 

No  thoughtful  tourist  from  this  western  republic 
can  travel  through  Europe  without  a selfish  inter- 
est in  the  different  nationalities  of  this  over-pop- 
ulous land.  In  dwelling  among  them,  studying 
their  laws,  government,  customs,  morals,  and  life, 
he  is  not  altogether  an  idle  spectator,  neither  can 
there  be  a mutual  exchange  of  information,  as  we, 
though  powerful,  are  young;  they  are  old. 

We  began  our  life  on  the  centuries  of  experi- 
9* 


20  2 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA. 


ence  we  find  largely  recorded  among  the  nations 
of  Europe, — those  decisive  battles  which,  in  the 
earlier  time,  raised  some  nations  from  obscurity 
to  be  the  greatest  powers,  and  hurled  others  from 
heights  of  preeminence  to  the  dust — those  evi- 
dences of  awakening  thought  which  marked  pro- 
gressive eras  and  decline — the  gradually  unfold- 
ing of  those  higher  laws  of  civilization,  which 
caused  many  a bloody  warfare,  but  which  were  not 
wholly  lost,  as  from  one  end  of  the  world  to  the 
other  they  placed  the  advancement  of  the  race  one 
step  in  the  ascending  scale.  But  if,  as  a nation,  our 
foundation  was  laid  upon  what  the  race  by  hardest 
toil  and  experience  had  won  before,  if  we  reaped 
what  others  had  sown,  yet,  as  givers , we  are  making 
new  history  in  the  record  of  nations. 

We  do  not  travel  in  Europe  anywhere  among 
foreigners,  at  least  among  a people  who  remain  for- 
eign to  us.  The  Germans,  the  French,  the  Italians, 
the  English  live  as  neighbors,  geographically ; but 
they  maintain  distinctively  their  own  nationalities — 
their  birth-right— because  the  people  who  compose 
these  different  races  are  born,  bred,  and  trained  as 
their  fathers  before  them ; while  we  pass  through 
these  many  lands,  knowing  that  , these  people,  with 
their  laws,  habits,  and  customs,  are  our  people,  to 


SOUTHERN  SWEDEN . 


203 


whom  we  say,  “ Come,  dwell  with  us ; eat  of  the  fat 
of  our  land ; help  us  to  make  our  laws,  govern  our 
people,  develop  our  industries,  form  our  social 
codes,  regulate  our  morals ; in  short,  your  opportu- 
nity in  life  is  in  that  wonderful  Republic  across  the 
sea,  the  greatness  of  which  no  man  can  measure.” 

As  this  is  fact,  not  fiction  or  an  overdrawn  pic- 
ture, to  see  what  these  people  are  on  their  native 
soil  is  to  look  at  what  they  will  be  within  our  own 
borders,  remembering  always  that  our  laws  give 
them  a larger  liberty  than  the  more  despotic  gov- 
ernments of  Europe,  which,  with  the  ignorant,  is  a 
dangerous  thing. 

But  one  thing  is  certain : we  need  not  cross  the 
Prussian  frontier  to  see  Germany  with  all  her  habits, 
amusements,  industry,  and  independence ; Italy 
with  her  wants  and  poverty  repeats  herself  here  as 
in  her  own  land  of  indolence  and  ignorance  ; and 
to  read  the  story  of  the  terrible  strikes  which  fetter 
our  important  industries,  is  to  read  what  the  law- 
defying  son  of  Erin  is  wherever  he  plants  his  foot. 
Scandinavia  sends  us  her  quota  from  her  small 
realm,  and  judging  from  the  development  of  life 
seen  in  all  its  relations  at  home,  they  are  a people 
to  whom  we  can  with  safety  give  the  hand  of  wel- 
come. Whatever  may  have  been  their  past  record, 


204 


A SUMMER  IN  SCANDINA  VIA . 


to-day,  as  a race,  religion,  education,  and  economy 
are  words  written  on  their  banners,  alike  safe  prin- 
ciples for  the  upbuilding  of  a wise  and  happy  peo- 
ple within  their  own  borders,  or  for  the  ingrafting 
into  a foreign  State. 


/ 


* 


i 

THE  GETTY  CENTER 

LtS^APV. 


